I finally made my bike comfortable and dont have to sell it!  I am 5'11" and weigh 300 lbs and felt cramped on the bike and my hands would go numb.  I started by lowering the footpegs 1.5" with a kit from MOTORCYCLELARRY.com.  That helped alot.  Then I added a Corbin seat.  Well worth the money!  I then tried bar risers, but they weren't high enough and my hands would still go numb.  So I added tubular ATV handlebars using the adapter kit from Murphs.  The handlebars are from a Honda Forman ATV and I bought them on Ebay for $35.  I was able to use all my stock cables and lines except for the brake lines.  If you were doing this mod, you would need a 20" brake line from the master cylinder to the splitter block.  I lucked out and had a set of stainless lines from my Harley and they fit perfect.  The only other change that had to be made was to the bar end weights.  You can buy a new set for 7/8" bars or buy the suzuki repair kit on ebay and modify it to use your original ends. 

I now sit perfectly upright without any weight on my wrists!  A perfect riding position for me and long distance riding.
As of 10-22-2012 I have also added tip-over bars, hwy pegs, bambi blinders, and cold weather air deflectors.  I think its finally done!!!

Some pics

Looks really good, Joel...super clean installs...got a shot of the lowered pegs? I've always wondered how much of a diff those would make for me...

  I opted for Murphs' Knee savers.   He has some good comparison photos in the ad. I've had these for a year and they really work great on those long rides!! No more achey tired knees.

             http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_90&products_id=143

The lowered pegs are the same as Murphs but cost half the price at motorcyclelarry.com.  I like them because they move the peg down and back so there is no toe cramping for shifting or braking.  There are limits to how far you can adjust the shift and brake levers for the lowered pegs however.  More so for the brake lever, but I found both to be very acceptable.

The lowered pegs are the same as Murphs but cost half the price at motorcyclelarry.com.  I like them because they move the peg down and back so there is no toe cramping for shifting or braking.  There are limits to how far you can adjust the shift and brake levers for the lowered pegs however.  More so for the brake lever, but I found both to be very acceptable.

  Motorcyclelarry's peg lowers are a ripoff of the genmars. They are not like Murph's at all. The genmars and MCL's use the stock pegs, and the bracket drops the peg and looses ground clearance. It also moves the peg outboard, which loses even more ground clearance, and causes the rider to be pigeon toe'd getting to the controls. Murphs don't cause you to go outboard at all, and also the thinner gl1800 pegs give back the ground clearance, so you don't lose any cornering clearance. Additionally, they'll fold up on a tipover, thus preventing a broken peg bracket. You DO what get you pay for with Murph's kneesavers - steve

Ditto on what Steve said. Here's a link to a photo comparison of the two types. I think the last two photos really show the difference in how much further forward the MCL's move compared to Kneesavers. Guess which ones I chose.http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/pegcompare.htm

I have the Genmars, nothing else was available when I bought them. I like the fact that they stick outboard a bit, gets the footsies out of the hot air stream coming out of the engine compartment. Yes, I have to pigeon toe, but after 9.5 years, I've gotten used to that. And I'll give up a bit of cornering clearance for the comfort level when it's hot out.

I am happy with my lowered pegs from MCL and thats all that matters.  They haven't scraped the road yet either.  Plus they move my feet further away from the exhaust header so my foot doesnt cook. They also use the stock spring to keep them from bouncing around in the mounts, unlike the kneesavers that dont use any spring and are loose in the mount.  I think the mount is built more rugged than the kneesavers also. I also saved a bunch of money and like the results.  To each his own.

Fthose that want other bar options, here are the Murph tubular adaptors with different bars:

these were stock 86 (lower) bars + Murph-K/B risers

those had to go....
My favorites were these:


these are "Superbike" style bars, my favorite..



these are the "Daytona" bend style, little higher, and different wrist angle

Nice, very nice. My winter time changes involve a new handle bar set up, bars need to come up and back. May use a liberal amount of the work you have done and copy it! 

Dave N.
COG 4475
Rockford Ill.
03 Connie GQ

That bike is looking good!! Nice work.

I'm wanting to go with the tubular bars. But I'm waiting to see what Steve comes up with.