Author Topic: Valve adjustment. (Read 11961 times)

scootertrash · « **on:** August 14, 2012, 01:20:26 PM »

Is it realistically worth trying to adjust the valved on the 08 c14 "land shark", or simply take it to the dealer. I can easily remove the valve cover(ok, not easily) and check the clearance, but have never removed cam's and done the nasty. oh, it has 13 k miles on it now.
If anyone in the sacto area likes teaching this skill to a rookie, I'm game and can supply taisty beverages for the endeavor.
Also, in keeping with my run on paragraph's, I plugged the air suction house with a rubber plug, and i am wondering if removing all the smog equipment and reed valves is worth the trouble? Thank's for any help you may offer.
Lastely, anyone recommend a dual tread compound tire for the connie, with sticky sides and decent mileage in ze middle.

datsaxman@hotmail.com · « **Reply #1 on:** August 14, 2012, 03:18:18 PM »

Man...never going back to the dealer. For any work. Ever. At all. Definitely recommend you do the adjustment yourself.

But then, I am not in Sacto either. Sorry...

Get the manual...follow the directions, especially about tensioners and the like...measure everything with the cams IN...take the cams OUT...DO NOT turn the crank with the cams out...DO NOT drop stuff in the crankcase...measure the shims and make a table for next time...out with the old, in with the new...back together. Measure again once everything is back together...now you get to feel like a real mechanic. Seriously.

saxman

Jeremy Mitchell · « **Reply #2 on:** August 14, 2012, 03:19:26 PM »

Get some quotes from area dealers for what they would charge you to adjust the valves. Then you can decide if it is worth it for you to do it yourself. It isn't super difficult but it is VERY tedious.
[look at this space, it serves to break up more than one topic]
Michelin PR2's and PR3's are my favorites, just do a search and you will see many threads about the pro's and con's of each tire.

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #3 on:** August 14, 2012, 03:25:33 PM »

There's plenty of threads here (lengthy) on valve adjustments. I'd look some up but I haven't had enough to drink yet. Try doing a search on 'valve adjustments' on just the C14 boards. Based on what I've seen here I wouldn't touch it with a 10ft pole, but that's me. Others and yourself may feel differently.

Conrad · « **Reply #4 on:** August 14, 2012, 03:34:38 PM »

Quote from: VirginiaJim on August 14, 2012, 03:25:33 PM

There's plenty of threads here (lengthy) on valve adjustments. I'd look some up but I haven't had enough to drink yet. Try doing a search on 'valve adjustments' on just the C14 boards. Based on what I've seen here I wouldn't touch it with a 10ft pole, but that's me. Others and yourself may feel differently.

And just how much is enough Jim and when do you anticipate reaching that mark?

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #5 on:** August 14, 2012, 03:35:47 PM »

B.D.F. · « **Reply #6 on:** August 14, 2012, 07:35:02 PM »

A valve lash adjustment on a C-14 is not for the impatient. It is modestly demanding, does take a bit of finese and I think some previous internal engine experience, and is a time consuming task due to all the things you have to do to get ready to actually adjust the valves. Also, there is a tricky part where you have to use the cam bearing caps to force the cam down against some of the valve springs- it is not really addressed in the service manual but it must be done slowly and deliberately or you can crack a cam bearing cap runner (one person that I know of has done that).

As to whether or not it is something you want to do yourself, that is entirely dependant on whether or not you have a competent dealer nearby and what your own labor is worth to you.

There is little reason to plug the air injection system on the C-14- it will not yield any more power or performance. It seems that most people who do plug it are those who have an aftermarket exhaust and hear deceleration popping; the popping was always there but cannot really be heard with the stock exahust system.

As far as tires, most of use seem to be using Pirelli Angel GT's, or Michelin Pilot Road 2 or Pilot Road 3s on our C-14s with excellent success. I have used all three with and have been happy with all but my favorite is the PR3 for the combination of stickiness, longevity, and especially, retaining good handling manners while wearing down. The Angels are good, and quite sticky but do not yield the same mileage although they are considerably less expensive so that is probably a wash but what I found to be a bit on the poor side is the way the handling deteriorated quite significantly even before the tire was half- consumed.

Brian

Quote from: scootertrash on August 14, 2012, 01:20:26 PM

Is it realistically worth trying to adjust the valved on the 08 c14 "land shark", or simply take it to the dealer. I can easily remove the valve cover and check the clearance, but have never removed cam's and done the nasty. If anyone in the sacto area likes teaching this skill to a rookie, I'm game and can supply taisty beverages for the endeavor. Also, in keeping with my run on paragraph's, I plugged the air suction house with a rubber plug, and i am wondering if removing all the smog equipment and reed valves is worth the trouble? Thank's for any help you may offer. Lastely, anyone recommend a dual tread compound tire for the connie, with sticky sides and decent mileage in ze middle.

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #7 on:** August 15, 2012, 04:19:32 AM »

+1

I have an Area P and haven't noticed any popping on deceleration. Could be I'm deaf, though.

PR3s for me.

Cheesecake · « **Reply #8 on:** August 15, 2012, 07:19:17 AM »

If you have to ask, no, don't try it. It's not something you will get done by a stranger for tasty beverages. It's a three day intensive mechanical skills required job that can't be done while you drink those tasty beverages. You need many tools including torque wrenches, and the ability to apply gasket seal and know where to put it and where not to put it. There are many opportunities to bugger up critical parts that will leave you stranded later. You need a clean environment with lots of space to do this correctly. And you will have to order shims and other parts and wait for them, so the job will take weeks, unless you just force the feeler gauges and say, hey, that's pretty close.

scootertrash · « **Reply #9 on:** August 15, 2012, 12:53:21 PM »

Thank you for the reply's. I'm quite mechanically competent, if not mentally challenged, and semi patient, so I will attempt this valve adjustment myself, mainly for the challenge. I can always bail and bring it to the dealer, providing I don't screw anything up. I simply don't trust dealer tech's to care very much about doing a good job(ref." Zen, and the art of motorcycle maintenance"). Again, thanks to everyone for replying.

McJunkie · « **Reply #10 on:** August 15, 2012, 04:18:48 PM »

I did mine over winter. It just takes patients. It isn't difficult just make sure you know where your parts go so you can put it back together.

texrider · « **Reply #11 on:** August 15, 2012, 04:58:24 PM »

You never mention what miles are on your '08. Many peeps have found their valves to be well in spec into higher mileages. Are you looking to do the 15k valve check?

scootertrash · « **Reply #12 on:** August 15, 2012, 06:44:29 PM »

13k miles. Didnt the owners manual say 12k miles for the first valve check? Maybe i can't read any better than i can type.

old n rusty · « **Reply #13 on:** August 15, 2012, 10:49:11 PM »

did mine, not that bad. just a suggestion though, get Fred Harmon's video. Under 100 bucks. Best money I ever spent!

scootertrash · « **Reply #14 on:** August 15, 2012, 11:35:51 PM »

Quote from: old n rusty on August 15, 2012, 10:49:11 PM

did mine, not that bad. just a suggestion though, get Fred Harmon's video. Under 100 bucks. Best money I ever spent!

Fred Harmons video is available on this site, or ebay, or?
thank you for the suggestion.
Maybe I can pay someone 50 bucks to share the Video, or go half's with someone as crazy as me who wants to do his own valve adjustment.
Just askin.

VirginiaJim · « **Reply #15 on:** August 16, 2012, 04:07:43 AM »

It's not available on this site. Fred has a web site where he sells these videos. http://www.angelridevideos.com/

It's about $100 or so with the 2010 info addition. Probably one of the less expensive farkles you'll buy. If you want to be frugal, buy a C10. Valve adjustment is easier as well but you have to do more of them.

speed545 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 16, 2012, 04:30:50 AM »

I m about there also and was indecided about doing it myself or bring it to the dealer. Thing is i dont trust the dealers around here. Last one i tried had a freakin hard time programming a CC fob key. Had to do it myself, twice since he was keeping deleting one transponder each time he was programming the other

Im just looking for a competent mechanic near by

feelergaugephil · « **Reply #17 on:** August 16, 2012, 05:17:00 PM »

Gonna give you a huge tip, plus this is a debate which has been covered many times on here, I did a step by step of doing the shims a while back, the huge tip is "use TWO zip ties on each cam sprocket to the chain to stop it jumping a tooth"
Its a easy job, but is time consuming, do it yourself (Ive done a bunch of 08's and 09's) take your time and save $$$$$$ from the dealer of which the mechanic MIGHT NOT KNOW HOW TO DO IT, hey! some mechanics have never done it and have to work from the shop manual.
Do it yourself, and take PIX PIX PIX as you go along and do drawings too, those oil lines under the cover look confusing, but they only go in one way, hence PIX or drawings...
I always take pics or quick drawings, it HELPS....
Good luck.

feelergaugephil · « **Reply #18 on:** August 16, 2012, 05:25:06 PM »

FYI (to all that want to do this job themselves) The CAMS DONT have to come out, seriously, they can stay in, just zip tie the cam chain to the sprockets to stop the chain jumping a tooth.
The cams CAN BE LIFTED UP, the bitch one is the front right shim......%$^$#@@ (short for cursing) that is a hassle if the shim has to be changed, the bucket is a squeeze to get out sometimes....
Hope I helped a wee bit...
OH, make sure on completion you use a bead of good sealer on the cam cover and let the NEW gasket sit in it for a while, then tighten down evenly and check and double check the gasket is all even all around and seals properly, laziness on this part will have you going back in to straighten out the gasket, do it right the FIRST time.

C1xRider · « **Reply #19 on:** August 18, 2012, 07:37:57 AM »

Quote from: scootertrash on August 15, 2012, 06:44:29 PM

13k miles. Didnt the owners manual say 12k miles for the first valve check? Maybe i can't read any better than i can type.

Manual says 15K in the US & Canada, 24K everywhere else. The engine is designed for 24K, but EPA testing regulations offer 15K or 30K. Kawi listed 15K in the manual and removed the O2 sensors for the US bikes.

It's a shame the EPA doesn't have a better policy, because then we might have a closed loop EFI system.

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Author Topic: Valve adjustment. (Read 11961 times)