Here is a a pic I saved from someone else in the past. I think the port should be open unless it is related to the pump diaphragm on the carb body's side (I can't remember). Maybe poking with fishing line a carb cleaner will free it up?
I set the float bowl height to 17mm per the shop manual and visually bench synced the carbs. ......
fuel origin/supply to the starting circuit... controlled by the Pilot Air adjustment needle screw..
did you disassemble and clean all 4 of those? Those are the ones below the pressed in "tamper" plugs...which need to be removed to access that circuit.
there is a screw with a fine tipped "needle", that meters fuel during startup, and up thru the 2500 rpm range, as the throttle plate opens, exposing the 4 holes on the engine side of each carbs "bore", to pull fuel...
if those adjustment screws were never removed, and those circuits "cleaned"... the bike will never "start and run"...
also, if they were removed, they need to be reassembled correctly, with all parts intact, the small rubber o-ring, the backing washer, and the spring, all on the adjustment needle... (items 8 thru 11 in photo) then seated "gently", and backed off 2 full turns from the seat...
now, after explaining the pilot air circuit, and it's GREAT importance to starting the bike, and supplying fuel for IDLE, and just above...
HOW did you (explain the method) accomplish your "bench synch"?
When I instruct this process, I direct people to adjust the "idle" knob, to a point where the fixed stop on the carb casting is reached, then, I add 1 turn on the knob, just to "raise it off the positive stop".. then I proceed to adjust the individual carbs, the actual "adjusting screws", to move the throttle plates to a point where each and every carb has the "leading edge" of the throttle plate "covering" 1/2 of the forward hole in the throat... when observed, the "reflection" of the hole, on the throttle plate's bottom edge, should combine with the hole, and make a "perfect circle" in it's reflection, if it's less than that, the bike will not start, (so erring on the heavy side, and if the reflection is actually a "figure 8", it will still start... and backing off later on the knob will bring it back to the correct point) but the "circle" is what you shoot for..and all of the carbs must be equal... and this is all done as I noted before, after installing the pilot airscrews, fully, and backing them off 2 full turns.
if all that is followed, sticking a "synch gage" on the carbs is almost never needed, because they will be soooooo close just sticking the screwdriver on/against the adjusting screw will make it change...
when it rains, it pours... float needles...replace, and adjust levels...
start at response #13 here...
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=24023.msg299987#msg299987
Ha, I've become a cautionary tale on what not to do to a carburetor.
I feel your pain, believe it!
Left a note for Steve, have not heard back.
Carbs coming back out tonight.
Seriously.
What is the hardest part for You? Took me 3 hours to get those friggin boots back on. Now I’m worried I’ll rip them and then something else to buy. But that was definitely the most frustrating part.
Couldn’t find that bar Steve has in the vid and I’m not ready to tourch a good screw driver just yet.
Makes you doubt your sanity. I know they worked when I bought the bike.
I’m just trying to get it running to sell it and motorcycle frenzy season is not going to last ‘til August.
No pressure!
We need a therapy group thread.