Ok, my search skills didn't quite find me the answer, so here goes.

1. What size Allen wrench do I need for the front axle nut?

2. How do you get those pesky brake line loops/brackets off the front fender?

3. What's the best choice for the "high-temperature grease" and the "molybdenum disulfide grease" when re-installing the rear wheel?

Pulled the rear wheel for the first time, took all of six minutes. Spent 12 minutes to get the front wheel to the point that all I need to do is remove the front axle and pull the wheel. Would have been quicker, but one of those front caliper mounting bolts was a real .... um .... pain to break loose.

Front wheel needs a 22 mm. I use the back of a Kobalt 13/16 spark plug wrench socket on mine. Or you can buy the multi sized front axle tool at cycle gear for about $20. I don't remove the fender, just jack it up a little higher and the wheel will come right out. For Moly grease, I use the Honda product, one tube will last for many years.

I'll pick up the Honda moly since I'm going to pick up my tire at a Kawasaki/Honda dealer. But what about the "high-temperature grease" that the manual says to put on the 'Grease Seal Lips"? The manual makes that sound different from the moly used on the "Ring Gear Hub Splines".

I use multi duty, complex, high temp grease, that comes in a tub from the auto supply or walmart for about $4. I keep a can around for many different purposes, like keeping the ants out of my hummingbird feeders!

I use multi duty, complex, high temp grease, that comes in a tub from the auto supply or walmart for about $4. I keep a can around for many different purposes, like keeping the ants out of my hummingbird feeders!

Hey! That's a good idea. I wonder if it'll work for picnic bugs too?

1. What size Allen wrench do I need for the front axle nut?

Craftsman 13/16" spark plug socket, backwards, with 3/8" extension inserted into the socket end (not the normal end). Cost me like 4 bucks, I think.

One thing to watch for keep in mind if you are going the socket route with 3/8 extension inserted backwards or from the inside...a lot of 13/16 sockets now do not allow you to do this not machined right through so check before you buy...also I use Honda Moly and wheel bearing grease as the high temp. For wrench I went to local bolt supply found 4 inch long bolt that fit perfectly and two nuts locked against each other put breaker bar socket on nuts worked great....less than 2 bucks if you want to get fancy tack weld the nuts to the bolt.

Guys, do yourself a favor and get a 22 mm solid axle tool. I bought mine from a member here(forget which one) and it is a good tool and it is not that expensive.  The tool is properly heat treated and will not break. Using spark plug sockets in reverse is for road emergencies when you cannot find the right tool. 

One thing to watch for keep in mind if you are going the socket route with 3/8 extension inserted backwards or from the inside...a lot of 13/16 sockets now do not allow you to do this not machined right through so check before you buy...also I use Honda Moly and wheel bearing grease as the high temp. For wrench I went to local bolt supply found 4 inch long bolt that fit perfectly and two nuts locked against each other put breaker bar socket on nuts worked great....less than 2 bucks if you want to get fancy tack weld the nuts to the bolt.

The sockets I had were like this. I discovered I could feed a long extension (or bunch of extensions) through the other end of the wheel and use it backwards.

I ended up buying a universal tool to help a friend change his.

i made my own tool, one for each side....and then bought two 22mm deep sockets...worked out pretty good. May have not been the best tool for the job, but it DID get the job done! The head of the bolt fit perfect into the axle. I should have put some washers on there to stop the nut from riding up the neck of the bolt, but i just kept torquing it till it stopped at 95lb-ft. The lock nut was smaller across the flats, than the main nut, so the 22mm deep socket fit right over and worked perfect.

You got great advise already but I would mention that the easiest 'high temp' grease to find is usually wheel bearing grease. The reason they specify that is so that when the wheel gets warm the grease does not melt and fling itself onto the brake rotor. Moly paste is not a great lube for that purpose because it will melt at a fairly low temperature. That said, I have used it as it only takes about 1/4 drop to lube the lips of the bearing seals. Really you can use any grease you want but if you are going to glob it on, wheel bearing grease is the most resistant to getting all over the brake rotor and wheel.

Brian

Ok, my search skills didn't quite find me the answer, so here goes.

1. What size Allen wrench do I need for the front axle nut?

2. How do you get those pesky brake line loops/brackets off the front fender?

3. What's the best choice for the "high-temperature grease" and the "molybdenum disulfide grease" when re-installing the rear wheel?

Pulled the rear wheel for the first time, took all of six minutes. Spent 12 minutes to get the front wheel to the point that all I need to do is remove the front axle and pull the wheel. Would have been quicker, but one of those front caliper mounting bolts was a real .... um .... pain to break loose.

No matter what.....a little dab will do ya.

I bought a 22mm hex coupler form Mcmaster-carr and I like it better than the actual tool.  http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3204/=itxg5r

It was cheap, too. A great place to deal with as well.  I entered my credit card and reversed some numbers. They sent the tool out anyway and trusted I woudl pay.

takes longer to get the tools out and put them up than to remove/install the wheel on these bikes

Well - I just tried to remove my front wheel.  Apparently I don't have the tool I thought I did.  I have 3 of them, but not in the correct size for the C14 front axle.

Ordered the Cycle Gear tool a few minutes ago.  Still cheaper than taking the bike in with the rim and tire on it.

Barry