I think there may be some confusion on the fork side of the chart. The preload is specified in mm, but at the top of the column it is labeled (from all the way OUT). Measuring from all the way out would give a different measurement that simply measuring how much preload is on the spring, relative to the fork cap, as the owners manual shows.
If you follow the wording in the chart, 16mm preload from "all the way out" would actually be more preload than the 11mm figure.
I agree with you RC - I think that the wording is screwy
Dis ain't rocket science pholks! There are simple well documented steps to setting suspension. Yes! you can do this yourself with 2 or 3 tools and one person helping you.
Would the board collectively like a how-to thread with those who know helping those who need?
Not sure if this has been posted yet from the old site. This was very helpful for me and will hopefully help someone else. The difference in handling from the stock setup was drastic.......in a good way!
I posted this spread sheet a couple of years ago. I weigh 215 lbs loaded with gear and my wife is 130 LBS. I prefer my suspension a little more on the stiff side rather than soft. I actually went to a professional to have the sag and base dampening set up. The dampening settings are also set up for aggressive riding. A lot of trial and error went into fine tuning these settings, but you will probably want to make some minor adjustments depending on your weight.
HELP!!
I was doing some adjusting on the rear preload to soften it up a tad. The spreadsheet is based on the number of clicks in, but the manual lists the "normal" settings on the number of clicks out. While trying to figure out how the two compared, the knob started to get very stiff and is now at the point that it will NOT turn by hand.
Don't want to force it, so do any of you have any suggestions on what I might have done? I guess it's a trip to the dealer for me next week.
is it hard to turn in both directions or just when tightening in?? I noticed on my bike that its gets harder to turn as I turn it inward. to help with this put it up on center stand to take weight off the rear suspension.It's locked up completely. Won't turn either direction. I think that it is about nine clicks out from all the way in.
HELP!!
I was doing some adjusting on the rear preload to soften it up a tad. The spreadsheet is based on the number of clicks in, but the manual lists the "normal" settings on the number of clicks out. While trying to figure out how the two compared, the knob started to get very stiff and is now at the point that it will NOT turn by hand.
Don't want to force it, so do any of you have any suggestions on what I might have done? I guess it's a trip to the dealer for me next week.
Swapped emails with the service department at Grapevine Kawasaki where I bought the bike. I was told that they've had instances where the biggest guy in their service department was barely able to turn the knob. Once they worked on it and got it to move, it continued to work fine. Evidently I'm not the only person to ever have this occur.
They told me to bring it by and they'll check it out. I'll be there noon tomorrow.
I asked what would happen if they can't turn it. They said they'd order another shock under warrantee and it would be there in about three business days.
Will keep you all posted.
Please do. I bought my 11 Black C14 at Grapevine Kawasaki as well. In fact just picked it up yesterday after it's initial 1K service. Also had the Cee Bailey Euro WS, V&H CS1 can installed and had them remove the 2"Heli Bar risers. Don't mean to disrupt the thread however.
Dis ain't rocket science pholks! There are simple well documented steps to setting suspension. Yes! you can do this yourself with 2 or 3 tools and one person helping you.
Would the board collectively like a how-to thread with those who know helping those who need?
I got a weird situation. I printed the chart and decided to try out one setting for two up. When I go to set my rear preload, I noticed I go not go all the way out from where it was currently on the bike. I thought from factory, they are set to 12 clicks from all the way out. It appears as if there was no preload at all! I could go in, like making it stiffer. Is this possible?! I did recently put muzzy's links, but did not mess with the preload. Would it cause the preload to zero our completely?
I set it to 20 clicks from all the way out. Feel a bit harsh with two up. On the front, do I have to wrench the nut all the way out before I start turning it in and measuring? Mine were at 10mm. I used the end of a dial caliper to measure and set them at 14mm.
I dunno...I was a bit surprised that my bike was at zero preload (could be a cause of muzzy installation) and 10mm on front all this time.
Not sure if I'm understanding you , but to me you're saying the rear preload backwards. You should be starting from all the way out (counterclockwise) and turning in (clockwise) 20 clicks. Is that what you're doing and I just wasn't tracking with you or did that clear it up?