Go to your local Autozone and borrow a blind bearing puller. It's free and makes the job super easy.
When it comes to removing wheel bearings there is absolutely no better tool than BRUTE FORCE and the heaviest punch that you can get yo grab the inner edge of the bearing; no namby pamby tapping will do here you've got to really hit the punch to get the job done.
Myself I use a heavy drift punch that I managed to bend ever so slightly to which this really helps it catch the inner bearing race.
I replace these babys every 25K....as I recall, one side comes out WAY easier than the other....I have to 'rediscover' which one it is every time.Why? The stock bearings should be good for 75k if you do not grease them.A good pair of bearings for example Timkins will last even longer.
Why? The stock bearings should be good for 75k if you do not grease them.A good pair of bearings for example Timkins will last even longer.
Grease them periodically and you can get over 160k.
Regreasing bearings can cause more problems than it cures. Best to use the sealed for life bearings with rubber seals both sides and leave them alone.
I replace these babys every 25K.....This is what I am going to do now. The front bearings died at 38,000 and now at 63,000 they are dead again. I replaced them with bearing from Murph, so I know they were quality replacements. I put new ones in the front (3rd pair for the bike) and new in the rear (2nd for the bike) this morning and it rides much better. More stable and smoother. I think I read somewhere that the 2nd generation concours had bearings that were too small for the weight of the bike on the front so they wear out quickly.
I think I read somewhere that the 2nd generation concours had bearings that were too small for the weight of the bike on the front so they wear out quickly.That's correct the front bearings changed from '94 onwards.
Why? The stock bearings should be good for 75k if you do not grease them.A good pair of bearings for example Timkins will last even longer.
Grease them periodically and you can get over 160k.
Guys, on the "sealed" bearings, I have a question. On the dirt bikes, I typically would get these new sealed bearings and open them up. It was easy t do with an exacto knife. Most often you woudl find almost no lube inside them. I'd then wash them out and dry the bearing. Add in some decent waterproof grease, then snap the seal back.
The bearings lasted a lot longer after doing this. I wonder if it woudl be a benefit to do with the streetbikes, too?
Agreed. I use a dental tool so I don't damage the seal. Some folks think the dry ones work better, but I like to grease them every time they are apart.
saxmanRegreasing bearings can cause more problems than it cures. Best to use the sealed for life bearings with rubber seals both sides and leave them alone.
Regards, RussellDat's my thoughts too... Buy quality name brand bearings that are not made in China...
I lucked into a method...
I was trying to hold a tapered punch in place against the bearing edge, with a large tapered cold chisel from the outer side. A couple of whacks later, of course it slipped off the bearing, wedging itself HARD against the cold chisel, I smacked it again in anger, AND STARTED THE BEARING OUT. Yippee! A few smacks later I was at the vise hammering the old bearing off the 2 wedged in tapered chisels. Worked well.
I then filed a rebate on the inside of the center spacer to allow room for a punch= easy removal next time. (I think credit goes to man of blues for the rebate idea...)
Regards,
KenE