Totally unrelated to the problem that TREE is having, but isn't that just a diode setup that allows the KIPASS flash (all four turn signals) at startup without the left and right turn signals being interconnected during regular signal operation?....not understanding the 'secret' box reference.
Yes, there is a discrepancy between the label on fuse box #3 and the usually seen online wiring diagram.
I have found that on my 2010 model the label on the fuse box is accurate. (I'm assuming your 2008 looks the same only without a grip heater circuit?)
Here for comparison:
ANSWER BACK is the Kipass signal relay fuse. I've never removed the KIPASS fuse (labeled SMART) nor the Oil Control Valve fuse, but I verified the other 4 as being accurate
on the label on the fuse block cover. I've always wanted to see how the bike would run without the OCV fuse but never tested it out of fear of damage to the VVT system. The
usually seen online 2008 wiring diagram doesn't seem to be as accurate as the 2010 diagram (it shows the OCV on the same fuse as the O2 sensor heater? perhaps an EU 2008?).
I think the (2010) wiring diagram is accurate except for fuse box #3 and the numbering on fuse box #2 (mine is labeled 12125 instead of 123456).
I do believe the diagram is is true to itself, so I think you should start by determining why the the SMART fuse is blowing even when the the KIPASS ECU is disconnected. Must be a short somewhere?
Perhaps the the fuse for the ECU is blowing through the KIPASS ECU?..that is if only the KIPASS ECU is disconnected does it stop both fuses from blowing?... or does the ECU fuse still blow?
I suppose the short causing the KIPASS fuse to blow could also be in the steering lock unit since you were into that as well right? You might have nicked a wire while you were working on the switch?
I sure hope I haven't muddied the waters here with this post.
The right side connector (viewed from the front) is blowing the 15A fuse for the ECU. I ran out of fuses.
Or tinfoil. I nearly torched a car using that method.
What stopped it, run out of tinfoil?
Remember, you have to use 'copious amounts' for it to reach the full rating....
Brian
Or tinfoil. I nearly torched a car using that method.
Oh, that's easy, just use a coin!
If the "Burn Through" method was feasible I would give it some thought. But, no, that's not an option for me. Nice try.
If the "Burn Through" method was feasible I would give it some thought. But, no, that's not an option for me. Nice try.
So, it appears that the electrical distribution went sideways when the battery failed and the ECU's failed as a result? I can't think of anything else.
(I just noticed the sticker on the DFI ECU, I had it flashed in MAY. Steve's flash is gone too.)
Since the fuses blow when the DFI ECU and KIPASS ECU are plugged in and they don't blow when I disconnect them I figured that the ECU's must be the problem. I certainly didn't want them to be IT but I have to follow my indications. I measured the resistances from pins that get battery voltage to ones that connect to ground on each ECU. This is what I found:
KIPASS ECU (OHMS)
Ground Pin - Battery Pin
5 - 7 = 0.4
5 - 20 = 1000
5 - 24 = 0.4
22 - 7 = 0.4
22 - 20 = 1000
22 - 24 = 0.4
DFI ECU (OHMS)
21 - 35 = 470
21 - 44 = 0.4
22 - 35 = 470
22- 44 = 0.4
52 - 35 = 470
52 - 44 = 0.4
Power connections should not connect directly to ground. Right? So, it appears that the electrical distribution went sideways when the battery failed and the ECU's failed as a result? I can't think of anything else. If anyone would care to verify my pinouts are correct I would appreciate it. Also, if anyone is brave enough to check a "spare" ECU to get a benchmark I would like to know those numbers.
It looks like I will be replacing these ECU's. Crap.
(I just noticed the sticker on the DFI ECU, I had it flashed in MAY. Steve's flash is gone too.)
I assume you are checking the ECU's alone, with NOTHING attached to them, right?Kind of important, this part.
How can you tell the reflash is gone? And if it's gone there would be nothing in it's place so the ecu would be effectively brain dead wouldn't it?
If it became necessary, it is possible that Steve might only charge you shipping and perhaps a handling fee to put the flash back on a replacement ECU, since it is more like you already bought a license to use it.
If I recall correctly, in addition to the labor and intellectual property payment, Steve also has to pay some sort of fee to someone else for each flash performed so don't get your hopes up for a postage only reflash. Of course, one of the cheapest ways to check the ECU is to send it in to a reflash facility (Like Steve) and see if it looks normal to them on the equipment? (it must be obvious at this point that I have no idea what's involved with reflashing an ECU).