Ok first of I just purchased a 2010 Concours on my Birthday Tuesday down in Lewisville Tx. Took it for a test drive and I love this bike, loaded it up on the trailer and headed home. Somehow, somewhere I was able to lose the only key fob that came with the bike between the Dealer and my Driveway. Took the bike to my local dealer to order another (new keyfob, with blank spare key, and the emergency fob and blank spare key for it) so now just short of $570, they had the parts overnighter and today they will program the new key fobs and I'll have the keys cut by the locksmith that was able to pick the lock on the pan to get to the owners manual (that luckily had the key number wrote in it). So I've heard that there is a bypass switch and I would like to order one can someone lead me in that direction please. Having a keyfob is great and all, but I don't want to ever be left stuck again if keyfob is lost or missing.
How did you get the bike to the dealer?
Ok first of I just purchased a 2010 Concours on my Birthday Tuesday down in Lewisville Tx. Took it for a test drive and I love this bike, loaded it up on the trailer and headed home. Somehow, somewhere I was able to lose the only key fob that came with the bike between the Dealer and my Driveway. Took the bike to my local dealer to order another (new keyfob, with blank spare key, and the emergency fob and blank spare key for it) so now just short of $570, they had the parts overnighter and today they will program the new key fobs and I'll have the keys cut by the locksmith that was able to pick the lock on the pan to get to the owners manual (that luckily had the key number wrote in it). So I've heard that there is a bypass switch and I would like to order one can someone lead me in that direction please. Having a keyfob is great and all, but I don't want to ever be left stuck again if keyfob is lost or missing.
Somehow, somewhere I was able to lose the only key fob that came with the bike between the Dealer and my Driveway. Took the bike to my local dealer to order another (new keyfob, with blank spare key, and the emergency fob and blank spare key for it) so now just short of $570, they had the parts overnighter and today they will program the new key fobs and I'll have the keys cut by the locksmith that was able to pick the lock on the pan to get to the owners manual (that luckily had the key number wrote in it). So I've heard that there is a bypass switch and I would like to order one can someone lead me in that direction please. Having a keyfob is great and all, but I don't want to ever be left stuck again if keyfob is lost or missing.
You already now know the trouble you are in.... but I must say that the dealer should NEVER have sold you a bike with only a single fob. It is the wrong thing to do. Of course, many dealers have NO IDEA how KIPASS works and thus how important it is to always have a minimum of the two fobs that come with the bike. If they are a Kawasaki dealer, they have the software/hardware already to program a fob, and for as little as $20 or something (their cost) they could have provided a passive fob for you to add to the active one you were given. Ug.
Perhaps after you educate the dealer how much this screwed you, they will work with you to help correct the issue (maybe providing all the labor for free and parts at cost). Can't hurt to ask them.
Hi
Posted a few months back about my 2008 going dead on me. Turned out main fuse/ starter relay and plug all burnt out. Suspected ignition switch so bought a complete assembly on flea bay .
Then dismantled old and new, put my receiver on "new" one (off a 2010 model) retaining the actual switch . Obvious,y this means I have an odd key in ignition but as never used it anyway reckoned I could get by.didnt think would affect kpass as it just mechanical.
However tonight I reassembled everything. Red light flashes on dash and I can turn ignition on if I manually hold down solenoid at same time.
Need to get solenoid to work and also. Fuel injection system doesn't prime when I switch on, so will not start
Any ideas anyone?
Would the bypass kit a member sells overcome these problems?
Steve
More accurately, the KiPass ECU not recognizing that it is in the bike it is supposed to be in.
We now live in an age where your motorcycle can have an identity crisis. Maybe service mechanics should start calling themselves MC therapists.
Maybe but it is pretty rare. What is not rare is for modern motorcycles to rack up 100,000 miles with no (perceivable) loss in performance, no internal (Easy Boys!) engine work or actually any drivetrain attention, other than normal maintenance, of any kind.
A lot of people choose to remember 'the good old days' as better than they really were I think. True, new things are more complex but they are also more robust, durable and a far better value than everything that preceded them, at least IMO.
And all of this from the guy who offers the 'fix' for the only part of KiPass that I know of to actually fail.... pretty ironical, huh?
Brian
Tru dat! 72,000 and zero problems so far. Not even the infamous KIPASS failure. My brother keeps telling me his Valkyrie is the most reliable bike out there. But I have to remind him that between his 2 Valks and my Valk every one of them:
had clutch damper plate fail at ~50,000
had rear spline on the drive shaft fail at ~70,000
had starter butting fail every ~10,000 until installation of headlight relay
And mine also had petcock fail at ~60,000
The C14 is a remarkable bike.
Well actually, I was speaking for all modern vehicles, motorcycles, autos, backhoes, etc., etc. They are more complex but at the same time, perform better, last longer and are more reliable overall. Certainly there are more complex systems that require more specialized repair / replacement than in the olden' days, such as electronic fuel injection vs. a carburetor, but overall, the entire vehicle(s) are more reliable. When I was younger, it was nothing to see strings of cars stuck on the side of the road during a heavy rainstorm 'cause the distributors were full of water, and very common to see a LOT of cars that would not start when it was unusually cold, often in mall parking lots and so forth.Anyone who had the joy of having to set points on older vehicles will appreciate today's technology
I cannot speak for the Valkyrie but I do have the utmost respect for Honda products in general, and the Gold Wing specifically. A reliable, tough and robust bike for more than 30 years now. And I have never owned any Honda road vehicle in my life (I do have a Honda snowblower).
But again, from my own point of view, I do not miss in the least wiping out distributor caps, replacing leaking and arcing spark plug wires, rebuilding carburetors, trying to coax a little more life out of an automatic choke that is stuck (and never did work quite right from day one) and on and on. And that is just the junk sitting on the actual engine to make it run, not any part of the engine itself; dive in a little deeper (Easy Boys!) and a lot of the changes in how engines are made along with the materials (our C-14's have ceramic cylinder walls: they cannot be rebored or even honed but then again, the do NOT NEED to be rebored or rehoned!) and the change in not only lifespan but how well old engines run now is almost unbelievable. It is nothing to find vehicles with over 150K miles that not only still run correctly and very well but also are not worn- they do not use oil, make blue smoke, become hard to start due to low compression and so forth. Like I said, I do not miss the 'bad old days', at least regarding road vehicles.
Excepting '34 Fords, '67 Mustang fastbacks (had one in British racing green), '55- 6- 7 Chevy's and a handful of others.
Brian
Anyone who had the joy of having to set points on older vehicles will appreciate today's technology
Hi Brian
what would the cost plus shipping to the UK be please.
Alternatively could you share the part numbers for the connectors
Cheers
Mike
Last time I looked, it was pretty reasonable: something like $9 (US) as I remember. It used to be $27 (!!!) but someone woke up and added a little sanity to the international mail system of the US. Still, not nearly as reasonable as the Royal Post; I buy small items from the UK often because they are readily available and shipping cost is competitive with shipping costs internally (Easy Boys!) in the US.
I do not know the part numbers offhand but I doubt it would do you any good anyway because there are minimum order requirements and shipping from Japan is not reasonable for a one or two piece order. That plus the price of two crimping tools means making one harness is prohibitively expensive. If you want to do it on your own, I would suggest cutting and slicing wires directly, that is the way I did it on my own bike many years ago; in fact, that is the reason I offer the harness- because some people wanted the by-pass but were not comfortable altering the bike's wiring directly.
If you shoot me your postal address via e-mail I will give you an exact price for the harness including shipping.
Brian
CheersBrian,
email sent.
Can you calculate the cost including one of your Fuel level doohickeys as well please.
Have you ever considered a little something to sound an audible warning if your fob proximity sensor starts flashing?