Oh ok MOB.. I see what your saying.. 'and insert it in the 2 outer positions on that plug to effect the jumper'
Thanks.. I got it.
I have to look at my bike, which won't be till tonight, I may have erred saying the outer 2 wires, I know it was jumped using a crimpon tye spade lug with the prongs twisted, making me think it was inserted to tie 2 adjacent wires together, that is likely the
black wire, and the Blk/yel one in that plug. That plug/harness splits off again further from the switch, and the Blk/Yel wire heads over to the 9 pin harness, when I was looking at the schema, I missed the 3 wires at the switch plug.
The Blk and Blk/red wires are normally connected when the clutch switch is attached (the switch is closed in that position), and when you pull the clutch, the switch ties Blk/Y to Blk.
.......
So if your riding along in gear ( 1st ground path broken) with the clutch out (2nd ground path broken) the ONLY ground path to keep the coils running is through the side stand. So if I hit a big bump and the side stand pops out for just a second the engine looses spark.
Hmm.. I better check that side stand spring.
I'm checking sumpi'n right now, but I have to say on the C10 once the engine is running, the sidestand position will make no difference in it continuing to run, it's just a starter interrupt, same as clutch switch, you can test this by starting the bike in neutral, disconnect both switches /connections, and shifting it into gear (WITH THE CLUTCH PULLED IN). it should make no difference. I believe you are getting a neutral thru the latched circuit in the jbox, and the ecu for that ground.
my old 88 (COGZilla) was in pieces when I got it, and the clutch switch plug was jumpered as I noted (switch was missing) I don't recall it having 3 wires, and the schematic shows 2 wires only at the harness plug, with the third terminating in a different plug...
hang tight.
HERE:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2208762150015463693eIhVCM