Okay...I'm confused....is this mod helpful in making shifting more precise or not? After reading the follow-up comments I seem to get the impression that folks that have done this mod originally didn't have a shifting issue, which make me ponder the question, "Why do the mod?"i'm with you, from what i read this mod has done nothing. i would rather be riding the bike rather than taking it apart and putting it back together for no useful purpose, but thats just me.
If someone did have an issue with making shifts, then how did this mod make it better? Did it affect all gear shifts up and down or what exactly was the benefit?
I guess I'm one of those that try to live by the KIS ideology (Keep it simple)....As a result, I only do mods if I feel there is a benefit or need....in other words, I'm for doing mods but only if they serve some practical purpose. I'm not clear from some of the remarks that people had an issue in the first place with the shifter or what the issue specifically was. I ask because I do miss an occassional shift between first and second if I'm really getting on it, but whether this mod would be helpful to me is unclear? Does this mod result in a shorter throw of the lever? Does it create a longer throw? Does it make the pressure of the lever less or more sensitive to your shoe/boot? Or is this one of those mods that is dealing with a person's physical characteristics (i.e. large feet or small feet) compared to bar extenders/risers for long or short arms?
Sorry for being so obtuse...
Thanks for the update. It pays to lock up your nuts.
i'm with you, from what i read this mod has done nothing. i would rather be riding the bike rather than taking it apart and putting it back together for no useful purpose, but thats just me.
Has anyone broken down the parts that make up the Murphs Bearing Upshifter? I’d like to make my own, but use all stainless parts. I don’t really want to take my bike out of service to order all the parts. I made a similar kit for my BMW K1200 GT. This kit from Murph’s was said to have come from one of these forums online.I think Mr. Murphy has done exactly that and for the paltry sum of $21 US you can have all the parts in hand and swap whatever you can find for stainless.
Can't get much cheaper than that, although I really couldn't tell the difference. I'm an insensitive sod.
IMHO, a set of bearings used in an application in which there is rotation involved would almost always be a better choice than a metal sleeve. It just seems logical ......doesnt it?
Will someone please be so kind as to giving me the bearing size or number? I need to change to a bearing, as the bush is worn out.
Thanks in advance.
And nobody likes a worn out bush.
I beg to differ! A worn out bush is better than no bush at all...
Will someone please be so kind as to giving me the bearing size or number? I need to change to a bearing, as the bush is worn out.In advance as well, you're welcome.
Thanks in advance.
I beg to differ! A worn out bush is better than no bush at all...
In advance as well, you're welcome.
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=48684.msg390771#msg390771
Now on to the important stuff:
OH, let me tell you, there have been times when I wish I had gone with no bush at all, instead of the shrubbery that I did go with.
In advance as well, you're welcome.
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=48684.msg390771#msg390771