Yes, I installed the custom line splitting the left front brake line out of the ABS block and blocked the right front line out of ABS. I reinstalled the rear brake line as per normal setup. I've been testing it to make sure all is functioning normally and so far it seems right. I have ABS in the rear and I have ABS in the front. The problem that existed before which was when you were applying front brake and were to just touch the rear making it all of a sudden grab more front brake is gone. I can still feel that the rear brake pedal is effected by the front, but it isn't noticeably changing the braking characteristics other than the rear pedal feels a little stiffer when holding the front.So this totally removes the linked brakes at this point. I have read through this post. I wish the was a way just to swap out the ABS pump with a more simple one. Most sport bike's with ABS just have a front input and output as well the same on the rear !
Overall I'm pretty sure I like the fix because I have ABS in both wheels now. With my other fix I liked the feel of the front lever and rear pedal better, but didn't have ABS in the rear. I just have to make up my mind as to which way I will stay with.
The parts were obtained from Galfer and are a t-fitting and two lines at 16cm and 20cm. I would shorten the 16cm to probably 15cm(that's the one on the left in photo) because it seemed a little long. Attached is my order sheet also.
Take my word on this. Don't do any wrenching.mah
On this bike, Train your brain/reflexes to use front brake only.
The Linked brakes work great to apply some rear brake.
Problem solved!
Ride safe, Ted
PS: By doing this, you can still stab the rear as a last effort in "an emergency"..
("Might" add a little more braking).
Take my word on this. Don't do any wrenching.Ted, for me disabling the linked brakes would be to enable me to apply some rear brake without having the nanny apply some front brake for me.
On this bike, Train your brain/reflexes to use front brake only.
The Linked brakes work great to apply some rear brake.
Problem solved!
Ride safe, Ted
PS: By doing this, you can still stab the rear as a last effort in "an emergency"..
("Might" add a little more braking).
It's pretty much the only reason why I still have my 08 model as I would love TCS and heated grips and Eco Mode and all the other stuff.
... I need the rear brake ONLY is when leaned over, partway through a corner, and not to slow down but to change the line through the corner....How does that change the line?
Q1. Using the rear brake alone in a corner causes the bike to 'fall' into the corner because the drag is behind the centre the bike. This assists in cornering. Using the front brake in a corner, as in this particular linked system that folks complain about, the drag is at the front of the bike, causing it to 'stand up a little more vertical' and therefore going off line or wider in the corner. If you haven't experienced it, it can be difficult to comprehend. If you have experienced it, it is most disconcerting. It's also the reason that Kaw, in their wisdom, reduced the 'link' from 2015 on, making it much more compliant in corners - they made a mistake in 2010 and corrected it 5 years later.
Q2. Does anyone else use the rear brake ONLY when leaning in a turn on a non ABS street bike? Should read (for clarity ): Does anyone else use ONLY the rear brake when leaning in a turn on a non ABS street bike? Yes, me. ABS or non-ABS doesn't come into it - it's the link rear-to-front that's the issue.
How does that change the line?I ride a 1989 C10 AND a 2008 C14 (bought new in Aug 2007 and has 74k miles on her).
Does anyone else use the rear brake ONLY when leaning in a turn on a non ABS street bike?
Anyone?
I ride a 1989 C10 AND a 2008 C14 (bought new in Aug 2007 and has 74k miles on her).
On both bikes (and on many more before them) I sometimes use the rear brake to stabilise/settle the rear on corner entry and to tighten the turn mid-corner. In both those circumstances I do NOT want ANY application of the front brake as that leads to low-sides. I have never had the rear break loose while doing this. The rear contact patch is way bigger than the front and can take the increase in lateral load.
I've ridden several linked brake bikes and they all feel like someone else is controlling the brakes.
If you like it, good for you. Me, I hate linked brakes on my motorcycles.
This has NOTHING to do with ABS which is a different thing entirely.
ABS is a great safety feature that I would love to fit to my C10, but am unlikely to do given the amount of work needed.
Thanks
As for Bleeding the ended line, you use the plug basically as the bleeder. Here a a few pics of how it did it using a complete Galfer braided line kit, and adapters at the ABS pump
3/8 UNC bolt, nylock nut washers & thread tape used to blank off the right linked hose which is tied to the reflector bracket above. The bolt shown is a tad longer than the one I used.
EDIT: I've not been 100% happy with the method I used to block the displaced hose. Having given more thought to it and scratching about in my tub of left-over bit from other jobs I came up with this short hose fitted with a 10x1mm plug. The hose is from a 1400 ABS unit. In stock form it joins the long steel pipes that run under the tank to the ABS unit - but it's a spare from a wrecked bike. This short hose with plug will replace the displaced hose which presently runs to the right caliper. It's necessary to lift the fuel tank to access the front end of the steel pipe to fit the 'block-off' hose. This update gives certainty that no leak will ever develop. Of the 2 bikes I personally did the 'bolt & tape' block-off to, neither have developed any seepage whatsoever after more than 2 years with that somewhat primitive 'fix.'