I am thinking differences in the cheapo plastic cap, Ryan, as there was no build up at all on the inside of the recess. I pulled a rubber cap from a frame fastener on my DR650 that fit perfectly, so I think those plastic caps are just junk. That's all.
Here is the thread where a guy with an 08 cut the fin for his bathroom bars.
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php/topic,30288.msg137261.html#msg137261
You can see that the plastic is not really structurally necessary. You would have to verify the correct slot before cutting.
I will point out that he is showing a gen 1 bike not a gen 2. I am not sure if the stuff is the same or not...
Nearly the same. The concept should work on both generations.
Yea, the chrome is pretty bright. What do you mean the rears match better, though? Do you mean they match the rear section of the bike better because the fronts overlap that flat black plastic subfairing towards the front of the bike?
I'm sorry to hear you're not totally satisfied with the overall attachment though. However, you did say yourself that with the correct tools (and knowledge from previously putting on and taking off the bars) it would take less than 30 minutes to put them on or take them off which really doesn't seem too bad.
If we were to use a design like you're recommending where there are brackets just inside the fairing that allow you to remove the exterior of the Canyon Cage while leaving the mounting brackets, you'd still have to work through some tight spaces which seems to be the most time consuming part of the install and would surely add cost as well.
The only way to truly get a "quick-release" style would be to use a cotter pin and swage design which would severely reduce the strength.
We came to the conclusion that the trade off of a 30 minute install was worth the assurance that the bar wouldn't crumble when the bike was dropped. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to argue with you or change your opinion. I'm just trying to explain our position and why we made some of the structural decisions we ended up making.
I am curious about other forum members' opinions about how the chromes look on the silver bike.
To Necron's point, I found this nut to be the least attractive piece in the install. To make it a bit less obtrusive, I took a black sharpie and "painted" it. Still not perfect, but it does not jump out quite as much now.
FYI - I am a Shriner and compete in various motorcycle drills. As a part of judging, our competition motorcycles are tech inspected for cleanliness and uniformity. One of the crucial items in our detail gear is a black sharpie. They are great for hiding minor blemishes in paint, and coloring in nuts and bolt heads. One of my competition motorcycles is a 1981 440 LTD and when completely detailed, it is a beautiful little machine.
My personal biggest complaint is the long main engine mount bolt and nut. The nut is ugly. But worse than ugly, the bolt is a smidgeon short and that doesn't inspire confidence. And finally, the nut, being hex shaped, scratches the finish on the bar as you turn it, which means that there is a circle of scratch around the cage where it will corrode.
My personal biggest complaint is the long main engine mount bolt and nut. The nut is ugly. But worse than ugly, the bolt is a smidgeon short and that doesn't inspire confidence. And finally, the nut, being hex shaped, scratches the finish on the bar as you turn it, which means that there is a circle of scratch around the cage where it will corrode.
To Necron's point, I found this nut to be the least attractive piece in the install.
It is horribly ugly though. After I installed the bars I taped everything off and painted the nut and subsequent scratches made by tightening it with a semi flat black that matches the frame and bars perfectly.
Ryan, the nut that goes onto the long engine bolt replacement. There is the black cap for the right side but the left is just the nut sticking out there.
"Show us your Canyon Cage"... Not enough pictures here!
UPDATE: I just checked with my tech, Armando. That is indeed a step nut that has more threading than appears from the exterior. The thing is, when installing that long bolt, you may have to twist it slightly so it sits into its "saddle". If that long bolt is properly and completely installed, it'll be locked in place and unable to twist. Also, were going to look into painting those nuts. Armando was just afraid that if we were to paint them, the paint may get scuffed up during install when being cinched down.
+1 on a black bolt...That's on my list tonight/tomorrow when I finally get around to installing the bars...to see if I can get the Stebel to fit again. I'll have to modify the bracket I made, but I'm thinking it will work.
Anyone mounted these cages that has a Stebel Nautilus air horn installed under the left fairing? Will they both fit underneath?
Thanks!
That's on my list tonight/tomorrow when I finally get around to installing the bars...to see if I can get the Stebel to fit again. I'll have to modify the bracket I made, but I'm thinking it will work.