Thank goodness you're here Brian! I don't know what I would have done without your advice. I guess I'll change the batteries when I change pants.
Follow my advice for the future, if you replace your active FOB. Have a metal key made- $4. Put THAT in your pocket (or the passive fob and key). Put your active FOB in a zippered pocket in your jacket and NEVER TAKE IT OUT... it is highly unlikely you will not have your riding jacket with you or leave it behind Only issue is in the summer, if you want to leave the jacket locked in the bike... that is a no-no, since it would be in range of the ignition and allow someone to start the bike. In those rare cases, I move the active FOB to my pocket.
As for the price... yep, it is a rip off. But same ripoff for most cars now too. They really should include TWO active fobs and one passive.
Sorry about the Thread resurrection, but I figured another success story was in order.
Took my passive fob to the ACE hardware where they had the Itool scanning device.
First I explained what I wanted and they looked at me like I was crazy (we cant cut a ford key for a Kawasaki). after explaining it a couple more times they agreed to put the fob on the detector.
It recognized the fob right away and asked for information. I told them to list it as a 2004 ford f-150.
I tool gave them a couple of choices and I got a rather expensive Ford key. Ford the Ford key in the detector/writer device and a minute later its done.
Took it back to the house (where my 2011 connie is) left both the active and passive factory fobs in the house and proceeded to the garage with my new "Ford" key.
Placed it up against the KIPASS detector and.........SUCCESS. It DOES work, allowed me to turn key and start the bike.
If they have the red itool device to detect/write RFID and a key to a FORD f-150, they CAN clone the rfid, you just may have to walk them through it.
Sorry about the Thread resurrection