No.... It's just stuck due to the rubber o-ring type gasket; gently tap it with a small hammer to break the gasket bond.

Here is the further saga, as posted on the "other" site

Rich your right ... trying to fix one float needle out of four, while still on the bike almost got me a broken fuel bowl.  Even when standing on my head and looking upside down, when I THOUGHT I had removed all four float bowl screws, I had in fact only removed three from the #4 bowl, and one from the #3 bowl.

I found this out after I pulled the carb bank out so I could look at it standing on my feet.  (after I had done quite a bit of prying with small screw drivers trying to get the bowl with only three screws removed off)

I also know that as stated by two people who know lots more than me about carbs, (Rich and Steve) that I was trying to take a short cut that was more than likely not going to work.  What I was hoping to accomplish was to get the #4 carb to stop leaking for the next couple of weeks, just to finish off my riding season.

What I found when I got it apart (after having to pull all the carbs out as Rich had suggested) was that the float needle rubber tip was deformed and more than likely the reason it was leaking.  (as Steve had said in one of his posts)

Anyway, it didn't work. I got it all back together and it still leaks after about 20 to 30 seconds of idleing.  I spoke with Steve this morning and told him what I had found and where I would go from here. (I had called him first before I even posted on the forum but he was unavailable)

I'm going to run the bike just one more time to do an oil change (do you want to know what oil I'm going to use??? lol) and then I'll pull the carbs off again and over the winter I'll get new float needles from Murph, polish the needle seats, make sure the pilot jets and idle passages are clean, set the fuel levels then drain everything and put them away for the winter.

I would like to thank everyone who tried to help me with this and if there's anything else you can think of that I should be doing, feel free to let me know.

Thanks Joe

I had a leaky #4 as well... after a cleaning no less!

I did an in-place fix that corrected the leaking float valve, but I still didn't think it was running right,  ultimately ended up pulling the whole rack again last spring, and performing a much-more meticulous clean.

Reviewed all the carb clean/rebuild documentation, posts, etc. and went at it again.  Did a "bench synch" this time before re-installing, and had a much easier time with the running synch.  Much better results this time around.