Per the Fine Manual, any work under the rocker cover should be accompanied by a new gasket. Before I  leap in with gusto and do my first valve check, should I get a spare, or is this just a dumb noob question?

Well, it's a good idea to have a spare in case you tear it but it isn't necessary to replace it every time.  I have had mine off and back on now about six or eight times and it is still OK, although I think I'll replace it next time as it is getting a little stiff.  It is rubber and that gets hard as it ages.  Check it's condition and if it is still pliable it should be fine.  Also look at the spark plug well gaskets, which are under the valve cover as they will get hard with age also.  If it were me, I'd like to have all that stuff at hand the first time I take it apart in case of unplanned problems, and then just save it for later if you don't need it.

Sounds like a wise course of action. I'll do that, thanks.

Is there any specific wisdom to add to the manual's description of the process ?

(I am reasonably mechanically competent, but my no means expert - my engine work started back 40 years ago in my teen years on my father's 60's Ford - i just haven't done anything substantial on a bike.)

Frugality has prevented me from ever getting a new gasket, and this one has lasted 11 years through 5 or 6 valve adjustments.

The Concours rockers actuate 2 valves each. It makes the adjustment process more accurate if you sneak the feeler gauge under both tappets at once.

I just posted this up on the ofishal forum, it seems to fit here, also.

Observations in almost ten years of maintaining my C-10:

My stock valve cover gasket lasted 160k miles. Do not replace yours just cuz ya have a new one, they are re-useable.

Do replace the spark plug well gaskets(center row gaskets(??))

I've never had to replace the hold down bolt gaskets(rubbers).

Do replace the spark plugs

Do use a torque wrench on the bolts holding down the cover. Do NOT over torque!! Bad Juju if you do. (Think new/used cylinder head if you over torque and distort the cam bearing journals that the cover bolts screw into.)

Do NOT use a torque wrench on the adjuster nuts.

Do not remove the igniter cover, you can do it all with out pulling it off.

Record the measurements as you found them, for future comparison.(good practice)

Bandaids.

It's also a really good idea to have a couple of adjuster screws and nuts available, just in case.(especially if you go ahead and use a torque wrench on the adjuster nuts) The nuts you can get at a hardware store, the screws are a Ma Kaw item. I keep a couple of each, so far have never needed, but I don't use a torque wrench on 'em either. As Gary Murphy(Murphs') says, "It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

Have fun! It's really not THAT bad.

And Vic S. added a good point, take a look at the hose clamp for the coolant hose leaving the thermostat housing to make sure the screw part is not down.

Also, be careful not to jar the t-stat housing, you could inspire a leak.

Excellent wisdom, thanks ! (Also your comment on the two-up adjustment, George, I'd read that elsewhere too.)

Steve, I put new plugs in 13k ago, should I replace them already?

One dumb question: is there any point in doing the adjustment with plugs out? Does it make it easier to nudge the crankshaft into TDC positions?

I've always removed the left side engine cover and sealed back up with sparingly use of permatex ultra blue. another guy suggested greasing one side of the gasket and then you can reuse it many times but I've never tried that.  Plus, with the cover off you can check the gap for the pickup coils.

With sparks out, engine turns over easier plus you should replace them anyhow.

Gaskets - I've got 75,000 on my 87 and never replaced the valve gasket or spark well gaskets.  I just bought some spark gaskets to have on hand a few months ago and I've got a spare valve gasket from 1989 new that seems to be in good shape since I've stored it in the basement and next time I'll replace all of them.

I use two sets of feeler gauges.  Easier than trying to slide one gauge under both at same time.

Use air compressor to blow off top of engine and frame and spark plugs no matter how clean you think they are.

Buy Snarfs air block off plates.  I don't have a set yet but getting rid of all that plumbing would be great.

If your bike is older than 15 years, I'd be considering replacing the spark plug wires at a minimum.  Buy from Auto store and cut to length and screw into the stock caps.  I didn't realize how inflexible the OEM had become until I put new ones on.  I ended up getting Stic Coils from TCro and they are great.

Buy Snarfs air block off plates.  I don't have a set yet but getting rid of all that plumbing would be great.

+1   Adding stick coils make things even easier.

Thanks again for those notes. I'm all "learned up" now, and should be able to handle the job this weekend!