Murph's Pegs Install

[MrFurious]

In the process of installing a set of Murph's lowering pegs and ran into a little catch on the brake side with shortening the brake rod.  The less than stellar instructions are as follows:

- Remove the cotter pin holding the rear brake master cylinder rod.
- Remove the rod.
- Remove the U-shaped adjusting arm. (do not remove the two brake rod nuts)

Now how exactly are you supposed to remove the rod from the brake master cylinder when it's not designed to be removed.  Also, how are you supposed to remove the U-shaped adjusting arm without removing at least one of the two nuts when they're what holds it on? 

[Caffeinated]

I can't recall all the procedures in the install, but have you dremeled off the couple of end threads on the rod that goes into the U-shape? This gives you the room to thread it further and lower the pedal.

[jayke]

I just ran the theaded brake master cylinder rod in as far as I could to lower the brake pedal.  It was good enough for me.  I didn't want to cut it off. Don't forget to adjust your rear brake switch. 

[B.D.F.]

You can turn the master cylinder link against the threaded rod too but you will want to go slowly so as not to rip the master cylinder seal. Loosen the locknut on the threaded shaft and then turn the 'U' bracket that the threaded rod is mounted to. The other nut will work its way down the shaft as you go. When you are as far out as you can go, run the locknut back into position and tighten it. As Jayke said, remember to adjust the brake light switch too or it will be on all the time.

Brian

In the process of installing a set of Murph's lowering pegs and ran into a little catch on the brake side with shortening the brake rod.  The less than stellar instructions are as follows:

- Remove the cotter pin holding the rear brake master cylinder rod.
- Remove the rod.
- Remove the U-shaped adjusting arm. (do not remove the two brake rod nuts)

Now how exactly are you supposed to remove the rod from the brake master cylinder when it's not designed to be removed.  Also, how are you supposed to remove the U-shaped adjusting arm without removing at least one of the two nuts when they're what holds it on?

[MrFurious]

Yeah, ended up figuring it out after looking at it a few minutes and remembering everything from Japan is built with bass-ackwards engineering.  lol 

However, after trimming 1/4" off the rod and adjusting it until the lock nut was bottomed out on the rod nut the brake pedal still sat way too high for my liking.  It was roughly the same height as the top rear edge of the peg.  Only way I found to get it down to an acceptable level was to remove the lock nut from the rod then screw the u-bracket/nut all the way up to the fixed nut on the rod.  Of course this eliminates the mechanical lock and adjust-ability offered by the additional lock nut.

Put it all back together and left it loose...going to ponder it for a day or so and see what other option I can come up with.   Might try a thinner nut, but doubt even it would allow the adjustment needed to get the height right.