I'm gonna check the header nuts for looseness since this seems to be common. Which fairing parts need to come off? I've looked at the manual and this thing is like a jigsaw puzzle and I have'nt done it before. Just looking for a heads up on the order to do it maybe. I've heard a metallic type rattle which is why I want to check things as well as any other nuts and bolts. Thanks

Well, you have to start at the top and work ya way down.  It's a bit fiddly until you see how the panels clip together after the screws are remover.  Just don't force anything.

If you have the appropriate 3/8 drive tools the header nuts can be tightened from under the bike without removing anything - I've done it a couple of times

i do have swivel setups for the drives maybe i will try that although it would be good to know how to remove them. Did you use only 3/8 or did you need 1/4 drives as well?

well 2 out of the 3 i checked tonight were loose, check the rest in the morning. Odds are there will be more. thanks again

i do have swivel setups for the drives maybe i will try that although it would be good to know how to remove them. Did you use only 3/8 or did you need 1/4 drives as well?

I used only 3/8 drive

Maybe I have big hands or something but even with the side fairing off, I couldn't get past the #1 header even with a 3/8 inch drive and a u-joint.  Well I could physically get the socket on the outer #2 bolt but I couldn't tighten it with the u-joint due to the angle.

Maybe going in from the bottom would work out better.

I take off the fairing sides, remove the front wheel, and loosen up the rad.  I get in fine after that.  May be overkill but it works for me.

I got to 6 out of the 8 bolts and 4 of those were loose. the inner 2 are a bear and I gave up for the day. Try again tomorrow on them. As for fairing removal avoiding it at all cost but have to do it someday. Thanks

I had to remove side and lower fairings. removed all rad bolts and just pushed the rad forward an inch or so. hoses hold rad up just fine. socket and wrench fit in left side to get the first pipe, after that had to use extensions and swivel and come up through the bottom of the pipes to get the angle.

I take off the fairing sides, remove the front wheel, and loosen up the rad.  I get in fine after that.  May be overkill but it works for me.

Jim is right. I tried it with plastic on and thought all were tight. A few weeks later when I had plastic off for valve adjust I rechecked and several were still loose.

I can get to all of the header nuts from the bottom side openings, using a 1/4 drive 12mm flex socket on a couple long 1/4 extensions. 

I can get to all of the header nuts from the bottom side openings, using a 1/4 drive 12mm flex socket on a couple long 1/4 extensions. 

Yeah but you won't get em tight.

Yeah but you won't get em tight.

Next time, try clock-wise. 

Next time, try clock-wise. 

 

Next time, try clock-wise. 

Doh!