Rear brake lever and shifter lowering instructions

[jemmons]

I am looking for some assistance on lowering the rear brake pedal about 1 inch as well the shifter. I added a peg lowering kit and now the brake and shifter are higher than the pegs.

[Kinetic1]

The shift lever is a piece of cake. Just take two 10mm wrenches and crack the nuts on either end of the linkage bad that runs from the peg to the shift maechanism loose (one side is left handed thread, you should be able to see which side) and adjust to your hearts content by turning the center shaft until the peg moves to your desired location then tighten the jam nuts at either end back down.

The brake pedal is a PITA. You have to remove the peg mount and master cylinder so you can remove the clevis so you can adjust it. It's all self explanitory once you look at it but it is a serious pain to do. You will also find that you can't really get it low enough without cutting the trheaded shaft down due to clearance issues. Also, do not forget to adjust the brake light switch or your brake light will be on all the time.

Good luck.

[Jimmy Patriot]

I just did this last night...... twice!  I went back to the stock pegs from the Murphs.  It does have to be cut because you won't be able to get it low enough with the bolt end hitting.  Now I have it where I want it, but I'm on only a couple threads since it was cut.  I did it twice because I did it without any prior instructions and I couldn't remember which way the pin with the cotter pin went in and when I got it all back together, which is fun by the way.... I tested the brake pedal and it was locked.  Yep.... the pin should have gone in the other way with the cotter pin facing inboard, not outboard because the brake pedal will hang up on it.  Now I'm a pro at it since I got to take it apart, put it back, apart, and back again  .... and the brake light switch is a piece of cake, turn the barrel by hand until your comfortable with when it comes on.

[Kinetic1]

If you are going to turn the barrel by hand make sure you watch the wires. Turning the barrel by hand also twists the wires, don't over do it.

[Coomers]

Once you complete the modifications above on the brake pedal you will get to a point where the part on the pedal that holds the return spring starts hitting the frame not allowing you to lower the pedal any further. The only solution I found was to move the entire foot peg assembly back, there is even a set of threaded holes to do so. As for the gear side the holes were there to move the assembly back but they weren’t threaded so I had to drill, tap and add 3.4” to the adjusting rod. A fare amount of work but my knees don’t ache any longer.