I have a screw loose...well actually I'm missing some

[Burbs]

So over time, I've had some cowling screws fall into the engine abyss never to be found again. I am in need of some replacements but wanted to confirm the right part numbers. For some reason, I thought Murphskits sold these as a pack but I can't find them online. In full disclosure, I am TERRIBLE with the "mechanical" lingo that so many of you have...it's awful. I'm like Cole Trickle from Days of Thunder when he says "No, I really don't know. A turn here? A wedge there?" 

I just jump on the bike and ride.

I've been looking at http://www.kawasakioemparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b58cdf8700223e4796c0a/cowling-upper and I see part #92154 and I believe that is the actual bolt I'll need. I'll also need the washer part #92200A as well. Is this correct? I figured I'd order a bunch just in case I lose more...which seems likely with my luck.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris

[gPink]

might find something here... http://www.probolt-usa.com/vaf/product/list/?category=%3F&Type=8&Manufacturer=72&Model=1248&Year=2134&x=37&y=12

[jimmymac]

I usually just find a metric bolt that fits and install it.

[Burbs]

Thanks guys.

[just gone]

I've been looking at http://www.kawasakioemparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b58cdf8700223e4796c0a/cowling-upper and I see part #92154 and I believe that is the actual bolt I'll need. I'll also need the washer part #92200A as well. Is this correct? I figured I'd order a bunch just in case I lose more...which seems likely with my luck.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hey Chris,

I ordered those for mine from Ron Ayers, however lately he/they aren't displaying prices unless you log in so off to Partzilla we go.

I don't know if you want the silver screws...

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-92154-0209.html

or the black

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-92154-0026.html

and here is the washer

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/kawasaki/KP-92200-0006.html

My 2010 model came with the silver ones on the top covers. I was changing my windshield and noticed the black ones there on that cover over the windshield raising mechanism. I took one out and moved it to the top cover and liked it so I replaced all the top cover screws with the black ones.

And just for clarity, the numbers you posted are just drawing reference numbers, the actual part numbers are usually close but are usually 9 digits long for the smaller parts.  XXXXX-XXXX<--part number format or (larger parts or assemblys) XXXXX-XXXX-XX or XXXXX-XXXX-XXX

[martin_14]

I usually just find a metric bolt that fits and install it.

not that good a practice when it comes to structural parts. The quality you can find in shops is usually 4.8 (400 MPa tensile stress and 80% of that for yield stress, so 320 MPa). Any bolt used in engines will be of at least 8.8, sometimes as high as 12.9.

[jimmymac]

I've never had an bolt come up missing from the engine, but a fairing bolt has .

[elp_jc]

I've never had an bolt come up missing from the engine, but a fairing bolt has.

Engine bolts are reportedly 'loctited', so highly unlikely to come loose. But ALL fairing bolts on my 2015 were only finger tight. Gave them all a nudge, to prevent falling off over time. Problem is Kawasaki uses rubber blind nuts, rather than the more secure metal clips most other bikes have. They give over time, so will check them at every oil change.

[VirginiaJim]

Never had a problem with them coming loose..  Not a bad idea to check all your nuts and bolts on a new bike for tightness, though, and then periodically after that.

[gPink]

Never had a problem with them coming loose..  Not a bad idea to check all your nuts and bolts on a new bike for tightness, though, and then periodically after that.

A wise man once said "Nothing worse than having your nuts go missing." 

[Deziner]

A wise man once said "Nothing worse than having your nuts go missing." 

Don't they usually get loose before they go missing? 

[just gone]

But ALL fairing bolts on my 2015 were only finger tight. Gave them all a nudge, to prevent falling off over time. Problem is Kawasaki uses rubber blind nuts, rather than the more secure metal clips most other bikes have. They give over time, so will check them at every oil change.

Just snug is good enough on the two bolts at the front of the top covers* (*just for terminology reference, the black plastic cover with the glovebox in it is one of them) those two screws go into the rubber well nuts mentioned, but those are in somewhat inadequate plastic fairing holes which almost everybody cracks when they over tighten them causing the well nut to expand beyond the capacity of the surrounding plastic. The bottom one is usually the first to go. It probably wasn't necessary, but I (after the break ) reinforced mine with a piece of metal mounted to the mirror mount bolts. In the photo below you can see that my top one is also cracked.
 
 "Don't be this guy! Don't over tighten your top covers and then do work to reinforce them, snug is good enough, let gravity do the rest."

Don't they usually get loose before they go missing? 

Yes, very much so if one wears boxers. No, if wearing tighty whiteys.

[Burbs]

Thanks for the feedback.

To clarify, it's the fairing bolts that got lost in the abyss, not my engine bolts. I'm missing one or two of the fairing bolts and then one that secures the metal battery cover. How I lost that one, I'll never know...

Chris

[Deziner]

+1 For don't over tighten the fairing bolts. I had to repair my fairing in 4 places because of the PO.

[jimmymac]

not that good a practice when it comes to structural parts. The quality you can find in shops is usually 4.8 (400 MPa tensile stress and 80% of that for yield stress, so 320 MPa). Any bolt used in engines will be of at least 8.8, sometimes as high as 12.9.

If you saw my collection of nuts and bolts, you would understand. I don't go to the hardware store for my stuff.

[stevewfl]

My KLR shedded so many screws on my coast to coast trip.  I just dunno why

[Rhino]

Blue Lok-tite is your friend.