Cold Feet?

[BudCallaghan]

Approximately thirty years ago Hot Grips appeared on the market and I was one of the first to use them.  They were truly welcome as I was no stranger to nearly frozen fingers.  Shortly after putting them on my street bike I bought another pair for my dirt bike where they were most appreciated as riding in the forests of California was best in the winter when conditions were generally wet and dust was absent.  Riding with warm hands then revealed another problem I wasn't previously aware of.  When you're riding with nearly frozen hands you don't tend to realize that your feet are also frozen.  It didn't take me long to figure out a way to heat my feet also.  I had an electric blanket that no longer worked so I removed the wires from it and used enough wire sewn to Dr. Scholl's innersoles to make the item pictured below.  I put them in my boots and ran the wires up the inside of my pants legs and out above the belt.  Connect it to the power source and warm feet are a true delight.  I use a pair of felt innersoles over the heated elements to provide an even spread of heat and for comfort.

I have since found that not all heating elements in electric blankets are the same.  What is needed is a wire that provides about one ohm of resistance per foot.  I was lucky to find the right resistance on my first attempt and learned later that some blankets contain wires with too much or too little resistance to do the job and either were too hot or not hot enough.  The first pair lasted about ten years once I learned the best way to attach the heating element wire to the connecting wire.  I tried soldering them together in the beginning but that connecting method proved to be too fragile.  The long lasting solution is the butt connectors crimped over the wires as you see in the picture.  This picture shows a heated innersole that has been in use for two winters and should last for many more.  I have one heated shop and two others that aren't heated.  When I work in the unheated areas I employ the heated innersoles and a heated vest to stay warm.  I use a battery charger as a power source and am tethered to it with a long set of wires.  The comfort provided is well worth the hassle of trailing the wire around and about.  If I used them for just riding they would probably lost indefinitely but I do a lot of walking in them.   

Gerbing makes a decent pair of heated innersoles and I have a  pair of those also.  However, the Gerbing pair do not afford enough heat when the temperature is in the thirties or lower.  They're great when it's in the forties and above and I endorse them as being a well made and long lasting product.  I very seldom use the Gerbings of late as I control the heat of my electric clothing and innersoles with a FirstGear dual heat troller.  I carry the Gerbings as spares when I take fairly distant rides or trips. 

I advise anyone who rides in the colder months to invest in a pair of Gerbing's offerings and if you want a bit more heat, make your own.  I also use Gerbing's heated gloves along with the original "Hot Grips" and an electric vest  to ride comfortably when the thermometer reads as low as 20º.

[maxtog]

Nice work!  I like how you stitched down the wire through the insole holes.  Looks really professional.  Looks like you are using a mono audio phone plug socket (1/8" TRS) for your power connection.  I wouldn't pick that type of connector for power, since they tend to short when a plug is inserted or removed (and that can happen accidentally while power is applied).  Hasn't that caused any issues?  I would think a phono/RCA plug or something else would work better.

[556ALPHA]

Gerbings has a new set of socks, I wonder how well they work.

[BudCallaghan]

Nice work!  I like how you stitched down the wire through the insole holes.  Looks really professional.  Looks like you are using a mono audio phone plug socket (1/8" TRS) for your power connection.  I wouldn't pick that type of connector for power, since they tend to short when a plug is inserted or removed (and that can happen accidentally while power is applied).  Hasn't that caused any issues?  I would think a phono/RCA plug or something else would work better.

This picture shows what I used for many years with less than stellar success.  The wires would break where they entered the plug and required replacement a couple times a year.  I tried other connectors but they didn't fare any better so I just continued using these and replaced them as needed.  Gerbing uses the same connectors you're questioning.  They work very well so I decided to use them with my innersoles also.  I have a Widder vest and changed that plug too and now all of my electric clothing use the same connections.  I have been using them for years and have never blown a fuse so your concern is not justified in my experience.  However, it is a valid concern as some folks are somewhat ham fisted and can find a way to screw up just about anything.

I just realized that you were probably mistaken in identifying the plugs I use.  The second picture shows a mono audio phone plug while the other two are what Gerbing and I use.

[BudCallaghan]

Gerbings has a new set of socks, I wonder how well they work.

My first attempt those many long years ago was a pair of wired socks.  It didn't take long for me to abandon them and employ the innersoles.  You really don't need to heat any part of the foot except the sole.  If they're kept warm, your whole foot is warm.  The socks were not comfortable, washing them was truly a hassle and I doubt that I used them more than a half dozen times before retrieving the wires from them and sewing the wires on the Dr. Scholl's innersoles.  I've never looked for a better solution as warm feet were what I sought and warm feet was what I got with the innersoles.

[556ALPHA]

Your idea looks like a great option!

[maxtog]

I just realized that you were probably mistaken in identifying the plugs I use.  The second picture shows a mono audio phone plug while the other two are what Gerbing and I use.

Bingo- I did misidentify them (which is easy to do, since only the female was shown).  You are using coaxial connections.  Those will not suffer from shorting.  Glad you are not trying to use a phone plug    The only problem with coaxial is that they typically don't have much "holding power" or "grip" and can very easily come unplugged.

Your first picture- I am not sure what those are called, but I have seen and used them before.  I find them really frustrating because they grip SO well, they are often impossible to get them apart!  And the connectors are often not serviceable, so they have to be completely replaced.  They do have the advantage of being polarized, although that doesn't matter much with heated clothing.

I have a Widder vest also, and those connections are very solid.  I am not sure what to call them, sortof a dual banana lead.  The wires will come out of them eventually, or break.  However, the nice thing is that they use screws to hold the wires in place; so they are extremely easy to repair and reuse.  Attached is a picture of what Widder uses for those following along...

[BlkBird]

As an owner of the Gerbing heated soles I can tell you that your design must be head and shoulders better than the Gerbings.  The heating elements in the Gerbings stop about two inches from the end of my toes ( if memory serves ).  They also don't get warm enough to provide real relief below 15 degrees.  They are definitely better than having nothing but for the cost I expected much more heat.  Also, since they are on the same heating circuit as the gloves I find that either my hands are too warm or my feet are cold.

[maxtog]

As an owner of the Gerbing heated soles I can tell you that your design must be head and shoulders better than the Gerbings.  The heating elements in the Gerbings stop about two inches from the end of my toes ( if memory serves ).

I am not familiar with those, but is it possible that they have to leave a significant "margin" around the outer edge to allow cutting for a custom fit?

[BlkBird]

I am not familiar with those, but is it possible that they have to leave a significant "margin" around the outer edge to allow cutting for a custom fit?

That is either part of or all of the reason.  They have plenty of different sizes so that isn't likely the majority of the reason.  I have to wonder if it isn't a function of how thick the heating element is, which would affect the overall thickness of the insoles.  As the toe area is generally a tighter area of the shoe I wonder if they didn't believe they could have the proper thickness without loosing sales. The thicker insole could preclude their use in the shoe or boot for the rider.  I have removable insoles in my boots and yet I still find the Gerbings are much thicker than the orig. insole which makes it a bit of a tighter fit.  For anyone adding them to a boot they might be forced to buy a larger shoe.