Caliper mounting bolt stuck

[Flyteof4]

Does anyone have some tips on how to remove a frozen caliper mounting bolt?  I got the right side mounts off, and the bottom bolt on the left side but the top one wont budge. I've heated the mounting bracket repeatedly but still no luck. Its getting to the point where the bolt head and allen wrenches are beginning to round. Is there a way to remove the tire with only one caliper off? I need to remove the tire so i can replace the tpms battery.   Thoughts?

[B.D.F.]

Try an impact wrench on the bolt.

Be careful using heat as the mounting lugs for the caliper are aluminum and you run the risk of cracking them with a torch.

If there is room, grab the outside of the bolt head with the biggest, nastiest pair of Vice Grips you can find and remove it that way.

If none of that works, use something like a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel in it and grind a slot into the head of the bolt, then use a large straight- slot screwdriver to unscrew the bolt. Again, an impact wrench would be useful with the straight- slot screwdriver bit too.

Last option would be to drill the head of the bolt out, remove the caliper and then unscrew the remains of the bolt by grabbing the shaft with Vice Grips or a small pipe wrench.

Brian

Does anyone have some tips on how to remove a frozen caliper mounting bolt?  I got the right side mounts off, and the bottom bolt on the left side but the top one wont budge. I've heated the mounting bracket repeatedly but still no luck. Its getting to the point where the bolt head and allen wrenches are beginning to round. Is there a way to remove the tire with only one caliper off? I need to remove the tire so i can replace the tpms battery.   Thoughts?

[Flyteof4]

Thanks for all the tips. Some people suggest "the right tool for the job" or some such nonsense?  Well, I went to the store and got a  6mm hex socket, and with a couple wacks to the rachet handle with a rubber mallet it came right out.

Try an impact wrench on the bolt.

Be careful using heat as the mounting lugs for the caliper are aluminum and you run the risk of cracking them with a torch.

If there is room, grab the outside of the bolt head with the biggest, nastiest pair of Vice Grips you can find and remove it that way.

If none of that works, use something like a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel in it and grind a slot into the head of the bolt, then use a large straight- slot screwdriver to unscrew the bolt. Again, an impact wrench would be useful with the straight- slot screwdriver bit too.

Last option would be to drill the head of the bolt out, remove the caliper and then unscrew the remains of the bolt by grabbing the shaft with Vice Grips or a small pipe wrench.

Brian

[mike-s4]

Use sparingly!

[Gsun]

You tried with a regular allen wrench? Yeah, no.... Get a whole set of those you pictured. They are your friends!

[Flyteof4]

You tried with a regular allen wrench? Yeah, no.... Get a whole set of those you pictured. They are your friends!

I know that now. :). Didnt realize how much better the socket type would work. I'll be looking for a set of those soon.

[Stephen.G.Fiddes]

Best way to remove stuck bolts us to "excite the molecules" (easy boys...), especially between dissimilar metals like steel and aluminum.  This can be done by either pounding it while applying pressure, or by using a viberator of some sort (don't take mamas out there, she wont be happy...)  pnumatic or electric viberator with a rubberized tip on the side of the ratchet, bolt head, or surface the bolt is stuck inside should get things moving enough that it comes out with minimal force. Its always best to not use the BFH on soft expensive parts if avoidable.

An electric engraver without the sharp engraving tip installed works great.

[lonekazoo]

Sometimes a little penetrating oil works wonders, but then I think it might be all psychological (apply it, wait a while, grab a drink, get your strength back, then come back to it and it comes right off...)

[Boomer]

Better yet, now you have the bolt out smear some anti-seize grease on the threads before you put it back on.
Next time it'll come out much easier but the copper in the anti-seize will stop it vibrating loose.

Also worth getting an impact driver. You can get manual, electric or air driven ones.
I have a manual and an air one. The manual is useful for awkward places but the air one is my favourite tool! 
ALWAYS use decent Allen bits and 6 pointed sockets with an impact driver.
This tends to prevent damage to the heads of the bolts.

[B.D.F.]

Great- now I have two mental images in my head that I won't be able to shake for a while. The first is that "tool" being held up against any part of a C-14 until the molecules get excited. The second is mama finding said "tool" after it has been 'motorcycled' up' with the associated nicks, grease, crud and deep scratches from the garage floor.

 

Brian

Best way to remove stuck bolts us to "excite the molecules" (easy boys...), especially between dissimilar metals like steel and aluminum.  This can be done by either pounding it while applying pressure, or by using a viberator of some sort (don't take mamas out there, she wont be happy...)  pnumatic or electric viberator with a rubberized tip on the side of the ratchet, bolt head, or surface the bolt is stuck inside should get things moving enough that it comes out with minimal force.

<snip>

[MAN OF BLUES]

Thanks for all the tips. Some people suggest "the right tool for the job" or some such nonsense?  Well, I went to the store and got a  6mm hex socket, and with a couple wacks to the rachet handle with a rubber mallet it came right out.

NOW, take that bit to the belt sander or grinder and bump the tip flat against the grinder until all of the chamfered end is removed, and the tip is square and sharp.
do that to all of the bits you buy to work on this bike, when you insert the bits into any bolt, tap it home with a hammer, this allows the tip to fully penetrate the full length of the bolts recess, and tightly grip full length...

[Flyteof4]

NOW, take that bit to the belt sander or grinder and bump the tip flat against the grinder until all of the chamfered end is removed, and the tip is square and sharp.
do that to all of the bits you buy to work on this bike, when you insert the bits into any bolt, tap it home with a hammer, this allows the tip to fully penetrate the full length of the bolts recess, and tightly grip full length...

Another great tip!  That sounds like experience talking, right there.

[Stephen.G.Fiddes]

Great- now I have two mental images in my head that I won't be able to shake for a while. The first is that "tool" being held up against any part of a C-14 until the molecules get excited. The second is mama finding said "tool" after it has been 'motorcycled' up' with the associated nicks, grease, crud and deep scratches from the garage floor.

 

Brian

 


EDIT:  Now imagine having that conversation with your father-in-law who is a former machinist, and has no idea the implications of his chosen words, and keeping a straight face... lmfao

[alexx45]

Best way to remove stuck bolts us to "excite the molecules" (easy boys...), especially between dissimilar metals like steel and aluminum.  This can be done by either pounding it while applying pressure, or by using a viberator of some sort (don't take mamas out there, she wont be happy...)  pnumatic or electric viberator with a rubberized tip on the side of the ratchet, bolt head, or surface the bolt is stuck inside should get things moving enough that it comes out with minimal force. Its always best to not use the BFH on soft expensive parts if avoidable.

An electric engraver without the sharp engraving tip installed works great.

Did not know this. Thanks for the tip. Sounds to me like this would be a good use for a detail sander without the little triangle of sandpaper installed.

[Stephen.G.Fiddes]

Did not know this. Thanks for the tip. Sounds to me like this would be a good use for

It really works.  My father-in-law taught me this when I had something stuck and was on the verge of damaging expensive parts.  Put a healthy amount of tri-flo on it, and used an engraver pressed hard into the bolt head while pulling pretty hard on a wrench.   Loosened it right up.

[T Cro ®]

NOW, take that bit to the belt sander or grinder and bump the tip flat against the grinder until all of the chamfered end is removed, and the tip is square and sharp.
do that to all of the bits you buy to work on this bike, when you insert the bits into any bolt, tap it home with a hammer, this allows the tip to fully penetrate the full length of the bolts recess, and tightly grip full length...

As always great tips from the MOB another tip is please don't be tempted to use "ball tipped" hex bits as they provide a lot less surface area and greatly increase your odds of stripping out a fastener. Also once you get said fastners freed up take the extra time to chase the theads clean with a tap & die, use a little dab of grease, drop of oil, or never seize on them too.