Bike stops w/ first start

[Juppt]

Not sure how to describe this: When I start my '08 concours in the morning and take off, the bike will stutter and dies. I start it again, and it'll run just fine. Now, if I let it run for a couple minutes, it won't die. I'm not a c14 wiz, but I prefer to wrench myself, what could it be?
And, I noticed the throttle lags a bit with shifting. I'll shift up and roll the throttle on and the bike will remain at the same speed then jump forward, as if I let go of the clutch fast. The throttle appeared looser than normal, so I adjusted the play per the owner's manual. It will smooth out if I shift with out the clutch and release the throttle a tiny bit.
Ian
'08 C14 "Dr. Phil"
'05 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI "the rattler"
'02 C10 
'86 C10
'82 Honda Cx 500 Student beater
'70 Triumph Trophy 250 first ride
"You never see a motorcycle parked in front of a Psychiatrist's office"

[VirginiaJim]

What's the idle speed when it's warm?  Should be about 1100-1200 for best results...

Has it always done this or has it just crept up on you?  Air filter clean?

[McJunkie]

Mine does the same thing on both accounts. I have my idle set at 1200 when warm and has no effect on the stuttering when cool or cold. Goes away after a minute. I can live with it. The jumping when shifting is rather annoying. Almost like a delay in the clutch releasing after the clutch lever is already out.  Mine doesn't do it every time, but more often than not. I ordered a new slave cylinder for the clutch to see if that might be causing it. There have been a few people who have had the clutch slave cylinder sticking or releasing at different spots and have had to have them replaced.

[Juppt]

I set the idle at approximately 1100 rpm cold.  It was around 900 when I purchased it. I haven't thought about the slave cylinder. Perhaps if I flushed, refilled and bled it, that "should" help, eh?
Ian
'08 C14 "Dr. Phil"
'05 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI "the rattler"
'02 C10 
'86 C10
'82 Honda Cx 500 Student beater
'70 Triumph Trophy 250 first ride
"You never see a motorcycle parked in front of a Psychiatrist's office"

[lather]

Mine would die occasionally, even warm,  with the idle set at spec. One day it died while making a right hand turn in traffic and I went down. Since I really hate when that happens, I keep my idle at 1350 and it has never died again.

[PH14]

I set the idle at approximately 1100 rpm cold.  It was around 900 when I purchased it. I haven't thought about the slave cylinder. Perhaps if I flushed, refilled and bled it, that "should" help, eh?
Ian

Set the idle when it is warm. The bike will increase the idle when it is cold. If you set it for 1100 when it is cold, the idle will go even lower when it is warmed up.

[McJunkie]

I haven't thought about the slave cylinder. Perhaps if I flushed, refilled and bled it, that "should" help, eh?

I flush my brake and clutch fluids every spring. I would try that first. Maybe it will help you, but it didn't with me.

[Pokey]

I flush my brake and clutch fluids every spring. I would try that first. Maybe it will help you, but it didn't with me.

So why do you still do it?

[C14PAINKILLER]

My stealership told me it was because of the fuel mixture was still adjusting, seeing how this only happens first start. I usually squeeze the clutch a few times before I roll, some strange habit I picked up, probably from my old Interceptor. It used to stick a bit after sitting for long periods. My idle is at 1000 so I will adjust it up as soon as I get the adjuster out from behind the fairing lowers. Had the valves done and they didn't pay attention when putting it back together.

[VirginiaJim]

So why do you still do it?

I do mine every year, I think.

[McJunkie]

So why do you still do it?

Because I don't care for the dirty yellow color in my clutch reservoir.

[Pokey]

Have a few anal retentive folks on here.

[VirginiaJim]

Can't argue with that.