Rear brake adjustment & Murphs lowering pegs

[Coomers]

Is the only way to lower the rear brake enough once installing Murphs Lowering Pegs to cut maybe ¼” off the end of the rear brake adjustment rod and find a longer brake light spring?

Thanks,

[The Pope]

It depends on how much you want/need to lower it. I have the Buell pegs on my bike and I was able to get the brake pedal adjusted to where I wanted it without cutting it or using a different spring.

Now I do ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs. So if you ride with your heels hooked onto the pegs, you would need it lower than what I have so that you're not actuating it, so Murphys method may be your only choice other than to change how you place your feet onto the pegs.

[jayke]

I've got Murphs pegs too.  I just ran the brake rod in as a far as I could.  I did not cut it. It wasn't perfect height but it feels normal now.  The rear brake switch is threaded, just move it to where you need it.

[Coomers]

So I cut a little less than ¼” off the brake rod and this lowered the peddle some but it can only go so far before the piece that holds the return and brake light spring contact the frame. It is better than before but still not quite right.

I’m going to look at it again this weekend to see if I can make some kind of piece with some kind of angle to replace the piece that holds the spring. In all reality this magical piece should have been included in the peg design.

On the up side my knees didn’t bother me on last night’s ride and the new PR3’s were nice.

[Coomers]

As mentioned earlier after cutting about ¼” off the brake rod I wasn’t able to lower the brake pedal as much as I wanted because the bolt that holds the return and brake light spring hit the frame. Others on this form may have known of this but while removing the aluminum assembly  that the peg attaches to I realise that there is another set of tapped threads to move the entire peg assembly back ½” – ¾” giving me enough clearance to drop the brake pedal down to my liking. I had to shave the locking nut down to about half its size but other than that the mod went relatively well till I went to the shifter side.

When I removed the peg assembly on the shifter side the holes were there to relocate the assembly but they weren’t tapped? The shifter rod is also a little short so I had to rotate the collar on the rod that comes out of the gear case. I haven’t tried it yet but I think it will still work.

In the end it was a far amount of dinking to get a set of lowering pegs to work but I think I will be happy with the mod.