Doh! Can't torque the engine mounting bolt...

[jim_de_hunter]

because it's not there!!!!!!  It's been sheared off at the nut. 

[mdr]

Well here's your problem!

On of the front upper bolts?  Make sure when you replace it you shim the mount points as needed.  If there's too much space between the engine block and the frame you can't torque the bolt enough to get the engine clamped in the frame.  As the engine rocks it either shears the bolt or the bolt stretches from the excess torque trying to make it clamp, which results in a stretched and sheared bolt.

How much space is too much?  If you can still fit a washer in there, it's too much.   IIRC, and I prolly don't, it's something like 0.7mm.  For a shim I used whatever the thinnest washer I could find at Big Box Hardware for an M10 (OE) or 7/16" (Skip's Bars and maybe Murph's?) bolt. 

If it's one of the rear ones, those are relatively rare to break.  Congratulations??

[turbojoe78]

If it is one of your top bolts, you may have to shim the LEFT side.

If left is broken, then you torque the right side first, then shim and torque the left side.

If it's your right side that's broken, then first loosen the left side, replace broken right side and torque, then shim and torque left side.

[jim_de_hunter]

Rear lower bolt.  10mm x 215mm. 

[RFH87_Connie]

Here is a diagram.  As noted before, tighten the right side, then shim the left side if needed.

[mdr]

Rear lower bolt.  10mm x 215mm.

I guess congratulations isn't exactly what you're looking for then

If you haven't already, check the other ones too.  Most reports I've seen for the rear one breaking was due to corrosion weakening it first, but if the others are messed up it could overload it too.   

I don't believe there's an easy replacement for it other than through the dealer, salvage yard or eBay.  Murph (murphskits.com) looked for some years ago, and while the fronts are easy to find something compatible, there rears aren't.  At least not for a reasonable price.

If you're around Austin (profile sez Ohio, but maybe you're taking a trip soon?), I've got both rear bolts and nuts from a box of fasteners I got from eBay.  They look ok, but it's probably not worth the shipping.  Up to you.  PM me if you're interested and we'll work out the details.

[jim_de_hunter]

If you're around Austin (profile sez Ohio, but maybe you're taking a trip soon?), I've got both rear bolts and nuts from a box of fasteners I got from eBay.  They look ok, but it's probably not worth the shipping.  Up to you.  PM me if you're interested and we'll work out the details.

Thanks for the offer but I'm going to buy them from Ron Ayers since Murph doesn't carry them.  For just over 16 bucks plus shipping I get (or should get) brand new bolts that have never been torqued.  I have no idea when the bolt broke.  I bought the Blue Monster new and this is the first time that I looked at the mounting bolts.  I may have taken delivery with the broken bolt. 

[mdr]

Thanks for the offer but I'm going to buy them from Ron Ayers since Murph doesn't carry them. 

While you're there, consider some of the other bits, like the rubber pieces between the side covers and tank and other fairing related parts, etc, etc...  There's lots of OE stuff Murhps' doesn't carry, so may as well get all those little things when you're already at it.

[midnightrider]

Rear lower bolt.  10mm x 215mm.

I broke that one twice. When I was installing the second new bolt, I realized I was having to force it through, which put it in a little bit of a bind. So I loosened all the engine mount bolts, put a jack under the engine and raised or manipulated the engine position until all bolts were able to slide in and out by hand. Then retorqued all the bolts. That was several thousand miles back ( about 40 or 50,000 ) and I have not broken another bolt since. Oh yes, I also made sure the upper left was properly shimed.