Don't use a tapered punch. Don't use a SOFT punch. Don't waste time trying to find a "split" bearing tool. All of these are futile.
This wheel in all arespects is no different than the original C10 bearing assembly, with the inner spacer sleeve.
It has been well documented on how to accomplish the task, over in that area, and I wrote a comprehensive artical in the Concourier, explaining the procedure, (Called "Shake, Rattle & Roll") if you have old issues or access to the library on the .ORG site.
if not, I'll explain:
Using a tool like shown, with a sharp square cut edge, slide it in from one side and down till you feel it catch the edge of the bearing. Then smack the punch "sideways", strongly a couple times, this pushes the spacer off to one side, and afords a catch on the bearing. With side pressure on the tool, smack the punch to force the bearing downwards, and as it begins to move, rotate the positions, until complete.
pictures for y'all.
THE TOOL, A SIMPLE TIRE IRON, CHOPPED OFF square, WITH AN ABRASIVE WHEEL.
SMACK THE TOOL SIDEWAYS
SMACK THE TOOL DOWNWARDS, WHILE PUSHING SIDEWAYS
I've replaced Conni wheel bearings in 1 hour, in a parking lot, it's not that tough.
best of luck.
Oh, I don't see why they want the bearings taken out to straighten the wheel....they need them in place to make sure it rotates true...? No?