I have 98k on my 08 abs and it seems that the clutch lever is engaging further and further out. I can pull the lever in about 1" and the clutch disengages. It does not slip. Could it be that the plates are wearing thin to make this happen. Other than that, it's all good.
Joe R.
Kelso, wa
I have 98k on my 08 abs and it seems that the clutch lever is engaging further and further out. I can pull the lever in about 1" and the clutch disengages. It does not slip. Could it be that the plates are wearing thin to make this happen. Other than that, it's all good.What you are describing is a symptom of clutch wear for a cable-actuated clutch. But correct me if I'm wrong (since I may be going out on a limb here), with a hydraulic clutch like the C14 has, clutch wear will not cause this since the system is self-adjusting if it is working right.
What you are describing is a symptom of clutch wear for a cable-actuated clutch. But correct me if I'm wrong (since I may be going out on a limb here), with a hydraulic clutch like the C14 has, clutch wear will not cause this since the system is self-adjusting if it is working right.
When the clutch is engaged, lever released, if clutch plate wear is occurring, the resting position of the slave cylinder will be gradually pushed out by the change in position of the spring loaded pressure plate. This is accomodated by a small amount of clutch fluid being forced into the reservoir, which means as the clutch wears, the fluid level in the reservoir should increase slightly (may not be noticable, I'm not sure.) When you pull in on the lever to disengage the clutch, only then does that close the hole that opens to the reservior and make it a closed system where movement of the lever is matched by that of the slave cylinder.
If what you are describing is in fact happening, I would think that would be more of a symptom of the master cylinder piston not retracting far enough to open up the cross drilled hole to the reservoir, thus not allowing the slave cylinder to retract fully over time. This might happen with something wrong with the master cylinder or the lever. I suppose there could be so much clutch wear that the slave cylinder is at the end if its possible retraction, but I think usually slave cylinders are designed with more clearance than maximum plate wear, so I would doubt that. Also a problem with the slave cylinder that is stopping it from retracting with wear could I guess cause the same thing.
I'll bleed the clutch again and see if there is any air in it.I had a dickens of a time bleeding the clutch on a car years ago, I think with the slave cylinder being almost directly below the master cylinder, the small air bubbles in the line were floating up as fast as I was intermittently pushing them back down. Very frustrating! I finally emptied the system, got about 6' of clear tubing the size that fits tight on the bleeder at the slave cyl, opened the bleeder a little, attached the tubing to it, stuck a small funnel in the other end (after tapering the end with an exacto IIRC), and hung it from a ladder so it was about 2' above the height of the master cyl, then slowly poured the fluid in the funnel. Filling from the bottom of the system, the air all came right out the top, and when the master cyl was at the correct level, I shut the bleeder. Worked perfectly for years after that, no bleeding required.
I had a dickens of a time bleeding the clutch on a car years ago, I think with the slave cylinder being almost directly below the master cylinder, the small air bubbles in the line were floating up as fast as I was intermittently pushing them back down. Very frustrating! I finally emptied the system, got about 6' of clear tubing the size that fits tight on the bleeder at the slave cyl, opened the bleeder a little, attached the tubing to it, stuck a small funnel in the other end (after tapering the end with an exacto IIRC), and hung it from a ladder so it was about 2' above the height of the master cyl, then slowly poured the fluid in the funnel. Filling from the bottom of the system, the air all came right out the top, and when the master cyl was at the correct level, I shut the bleeder. Worked perfectly for years after that, no bleeding required.
edit: ...but keep in mind that this only works well if the line into the slave cyl enters at the top of the cylinder, otherwise air will be trapped in the slave. From the C14 parts cat pic, it looks like the banjo fitting is not at the top. So if this method is used, bleeding the slave will still be required. But there is unlikely to be any air anywhere else in the system to worry about, so the bleeding goes better.
BDF- I'm planning to take a look at that slave cylinder. Did it bleed down if you held the clutch in for a long time. The rainy season is upon us out here in Washington, so I'll have alot of time to pull that slave cylinder. Was that a warranty issue of did you purchase a new one? Joe