Replacing clutch line with braided steel

[pzak95]

After more than 107k mi. I finally gave the hydraulic clutch system some attention. It has worked fine for the 16 years that I've owned the bike. I have a replacement stainless steel line on order from Murphs. Does this come as one long single line or is it 2 lines that connect to the ends of the tubing on the frame? My first clue that things were going south was the dark colored junk oozing out from the slave cylinder. I belive that I caught this just in time. There was so little fluid left in the reservoir that I was amazed that it was still working.

Pat

[T Cro ®]

No it's a one piece line; be prepared to destroy the old steel line to get it out. Please don't wait so long between service next time; replace the fluid every 2 to 3 years.....

[Outback_Jon]

No it's a one piece line; be prepared to destroy the old steel line to get it out. Please don't wait so long between service next time; replace every 2 to 3 years.....

I assume you're referring to the clutch fluid and not replacing the line every 2 to 3 years.

[T Cro ®]

I assume you're referring to the clutch fluid and not replacing the line every 2 to 3 years.

YES.... 

[pzak95]

Finally got all my parts in after 2 and half weeks. The last item to show up was the stainless line from Spiegler. Got this installed without much difficulty. Filled the master cylinder (which had a kit installed) with fluid and began to try to bleed the system. Not having any fun here. The fluid doesn't seem to want to go down the line. Anybody have any tips on how to go about this? I've bled brakes before and this can't be much different.

Pat

[Boomer343]

When replacing lines I have found it helps to wet the lines before install by holding them vertical and pouring a little brake fluid through them.

Masters don't move much fluid so you may ned to apply a vacuum source at the slave. If you don't have a mity vac setup then carefull use of a vacuum cleaner nozzle close to the bleed screw can create enough of a pressure drop to pull the fluid down. Don't use the wife's favorite household unit though. Once you get the fluid to the slave you should be able to do the pump, hold, bleed sequence.

Hope this helps.....

[cmoore]

+1 on what Boomer said. I used a Mitey Vac the first time I bled the system after installing the stainless steel clutch line. Good luck.

[pzak95]

Thanks for the response. Don't have a mighty vac but I was thinking about using my shop vac to help the process along. I quess the length of the hose is too much volume for the master cylinder valve to overcome.

Pat

[WiConnie]

I've used this unit from Harbor Freight with good success.
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html

[billhook]

Autozone and Advance usually have vacuum pumps available for loan.

[Summit670]

I use an air compressor spray nozzle that has a separate hose to suck cleaner thru as it blows air to create a cleaning spray/mist.

Took an empty plastic peanut jar and drilled two holes in the lid.

Press fit one hose a few inches into lid and leave other end free to suck out whatever needs sucking.  Works great for all sorts of things.

Press fit another hose, the one coming from the spray nozzle, into the second hole, a few inches.

It will work to bleed brake lines, just not very fast with the fluid but may work quicker to elimate a lot of air from the new line.

The jar holds a lot of fluid.

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

 use air and blow through the bleeder of the slave cylinder and pop the piston out of the slave cylinder. close the bleeder, and fill the reservoir of the slave with brake fluid. Put the piston in and seat it. The fluid will purge the line of air and backflow to the master. fill the master and bleed the system. Steve

[pzak95]

Hey Steve thanks for the tip. This worked great. This went so well that since I had bought a new can of Dot 4 brake fluid I did a bleed job on the front brakes as well. Back on two wheels again after  3 weeks of driving the truck to work. It's a nice ride but uses too much fuel. 18 mpg v 42 mpg is a no brainer.

Pat

[PlaynInPeoria]

Speed bleeders rule.   Not sure how well they would work on a clutch, though I am not sure why it would be different.  Had to put pads in the rear and threw a speed bleeder on when I had it off.  Sucked the old nasty stuff out of the reservoir with a paper towel, opened the speed bleeder and just started pumping the rear brake pedal (had a line on the bleeder to a can to capture the junk coming out).  Kept refilling the master cylinder, did that for a bit and closed the bleeder. Done, perfectly bled rear brake.  Great invention!