Author Topic: soft metal bolts replacement  (Read 3147 times)

Offline gonzosc1

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soft metal bolts replacement
« on: September 08, 2011, 03:32:46 PM »
has anybody went looking for harder replacement bolts.  had to dig into dash this afternoon to hunt down the buzzzz. could not get windshield off!!!  I heated the big screw with iron and no go. I striped it out and it did not move a bit...
ended up having to work around the windshield as best I could which lead to another striped nut on the back of the dash F$#%@6&*&. 
I'm about tired of this thing!!!!!!!!!
anyway throw up your nut and bolt replacement ideas or the ones you have replaced with something better and harder

Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: soft metal bolts replacement
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2011, 06:01:51 PM »
I guess that Kwak hasn't run out of their stock of chocolate screws yet.  There were quite a few on the C10.
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Offline walt_mink

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Re: soft metal bolts replacement
« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2011, 10:06:27 AM »
I was recently trying to fix my buzz too.  I got to the back of the dash and though, "I'll just snug this up a bit to see if it helps" ... ... .. *SNAP*.  I swear I just barely breathed on it with the wrench.  :)  Just got the part in yesterday and leave for my trip down the coast to CA tomorrow morning.  Phew.

Here's your part#
1 of 14091-0546 - COVER,METER,LWR    @$69.44ea.
2009 Concours 1400 - mostly stock.

Offline crashdb

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Re: soft metal bolts replacement
« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2011, 10:21:35 AM »
Pro Bolt stocks a lot of replacment nuts and bolts.  I don't think I've ever had one of theirs snap or strip on me.
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Offline gonzosc1

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Re: soft metal bolts replacement
« Reply #4 on: September 09, 2011, 04:23:56 PM »
I was recently trying to fix my buzz too.  I got to the back of the dash and though, "I'll just snug this up a bit to see if it helps" ... ... .. *SNAP*.  I swear I just barely breathed on it with the wrench.  :)  Just got the part in yesterday and leave for my trip down the coast to CA tomorrow morning.  Phew.

Here's your part#
1 of 14091-0546 - COVER,METER,LWR    @$69.44ea.

I'll have to look to make sure thats the part I need for the dash.  as far as the windscreen goes I guess I will have to drill it out to get it off..
this really pisses me off after paying big bucks for this bike and its put together with nothing more then cheap nuts and bolts with the strength of elmers glue. another 1 or 2 hundred dollars would have made that right at the factory.

Offline booger

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Re: soft metal bolts replacement
« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2011, 06:23:28 PM »
Kawasaki is infamous for this.  I went through my KLR 650 and replaced every critical bolt with grade 8 or higher.

Guess I probably should do it on my C-14

Offline B.D.F.

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Re: soft metal bolts replacement
« Reply #6 on: September 09, 2011, 07:57:46 PM »
Interesting. I have had my '08 since '07 and have had large portions of the bike apart, some parts such as the fairings on / off a lot of times, and stripped fasteners just have not been a problem for me. I did round out one windshield bolt (the small, black outer type) but only because I only had the wrench in about 1/3 of the way into the bolt head.

The great news is that the fasteners on the bike have really resisted corrosion, especially the fairing fasteners.

Best of luck replacing them with something else but a lot of the fasteners on this bike have proprietary heads and conventional hardware just will not fit. Also a fair number of fasteners have oddly shaped heads such as the fairing fasteners. You might be able to replace them but you will probably have to replace all of them or the bike might look odd with mixed fasteners.

Brian



has anybody went looking for harder replacement bolts.  had to dig into dash this afternoon to hunt down the buzzzz. could not get windshield off!!!  I heated the big screw with iron and no go. I striped it out and it did not move a bit...
ended up having to work around the windshield as best I could which lead to another striped nut on the back of the dash F$#%@6&*&. 
I'm about tired of this thing!!!!!!!!!
anyway throw up your nut and bolt replacement ideas or the ones you have replaced with something better and harder
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Offline Ga. Cycle Rider

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Re: soft metal bolts replacement
« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2011, 05:26:00 AM »
Well there is always a time to make your first post. I am a convert over to the 14 from a 05 FJR that I sold to a bud after rolling up 50,340 miles on it.

The very first thing I attempted to do was to remove the plate that covers the battery in order to install my battery tender leads. The bolts, as Warchild, famous on the fjr forum and other boards would put it, are as soft as moist ass cheese.  The real problem with the battery cover bolts are they have no depth. There is simply not a lot of inner surface to grab.

A cobalt drill bit and a easy out solved the problem. But still...this pissed me off. The FJR had a few softies but a freaking battery cover bolt, ya gotta be kidding me.

After removal of all the cover bolts I applied a coating of anti sieze compound to the threads to make it a little easier the next go round.

Later that week, I rolled over to the ace hardware to pick up some abs cement to glue on the fender extender and looked over the selection of stainless steel high grade fasteners while there.

What my plan is that as I service the machine I will replace any cheesy bolt/nut that comes off with a stainless steel item if possible.

Other than that, all I can do is to keep a tube of anti sieze handy and make sure I am using high quality tools with precision fits and be super easy on the fasteners.

Over and out.
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: soft metal bolts replacement
« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2011, 01:03:08 PM »
......
The very first thing I attempted to do was to remove the plate that covers the battery in order to install my battery tender leads. The bolts, as Warchild, famous on the fjr forum and other boards would put it, are as soft as moist ass cheese.  The real problem with the battery cover bolts are they have no depth. There is simply not a lot of inner surface to grab.

....

those are usually the first ones everyone here strips....problem is, it all began at thedealer when they hosed them up installing the battery....90% of those out there got cross threaded by the dealer, making re-use by the owner a p.i.t.a.

The most important thing you can do, and immediatly, is to take all your allen wrench nibs and apply them properly to a bench grinder or belt sander, AND REMOVE ANY CHAMFER FROM THE END, LEAVING THEM SHARP, SQUARE, AND PERFECTLY CLEAN.... the biggest problem with the C14 outer bolts is the minimal depth of the socket recess, removing the chamfered ends on all wrenches is a necessity, tapping on each nip when inserting it into a bolt head insures good grip.
The bolts themselves aren't too bad, they are stainless, albeit a soft alloy...
I suggest chasing every tapped hole you remove a bolt from with a good quality tap tho, to remove any damaged threads, and residual locking agents applied at the factory, before re-installing any bolts...  anti seize agents are not really a suggested application, as if you use the wrong ones you will actually create a corrosive situaton caused by disimilar metals if the compound contains copper or zinc. Simply applying some generic bearing grease to the threads offers a better solution, and prevents corosion much better... k.i.s.s. principal works best there.

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