It does sound like a slipping clutch, but bleeding the clutch is the first thing I would try because that is cheap and easy. You won't like what happens if that doesn't fix it.Well looks like I'll be watching some of Phil's video this evening.
Yup, bleed it first.It's an '09 with 14,700 miles. I don't remember the terms of the factory warranty.
If that don't work, replace the clutch fluid with fresh DOT4.
Next step after that is to remove the slave cylinder and take a look at the piston and the pushrod.
After that yer into the right side engine casing to look at the thrust springs, steel and friction plates, and the slipper clutch mechanism.
I recently replace all my clutch plates after one of the OEM friction plates disintegrated, so been there, done that.
It slips at around 6,000rpm because that is where peak torque is delivered.
If you feed the throttle in gently then it shouldn't slip.
What's the mileage on the bike?
Still under warranty?
It's an '09 with 14,700 miles. I don't remember the terms of the factory warranty.3 years, unlimited mileage with an option to extend 3 more years if still under warranty, same unlimited mileage.
Should still be under warranty. Use it.
Absolutely!
Still could be engine oil related. Since you didn't say what brand / flavor of oil you used, no one else can confirm if they have used the same without any problems.What's interesting is I've used the same brand motorcycle oil since I've had the bike and changed it at 5-6k mile intervals. I don't normally stress the clutch plates by hard take-offs and such but have on a few occaisions.
I've had lots of problems with slipping and grabby clutches on other bikes in the past that was purely oil related, before they came out with motorcycle spec oil. Since then, not so much.
Before you spend any money on anything else, I would change the oil and put genuine Kawasaki motor oil in it. That way if you do end up at the dealer, you can tell them it has their oil in it. Otherwise, they'll probably throw that one at you first.
I don't see how bleeding the clutch would help (obviously it can't hurt though, just use DOT-4 fluid). The hydraulic system requires pressure to apply force to spread the clutch plates apart, and I know of no way the system would maintain pressure after the lever is released, that bleeding would fix. Maybe I missed something?