...i am cutting/pasting from COG online review/post. I know that not everyone looks at both forums so this is for those that stick to one forum.
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OK so this all started back, oh around JULY 2015 when I Said, hey I gotta have those.
CWL ( Clearwaterlights) took my money of course and I said gimmie a set of those ERICAs !
I chose the under-mirror L bracket.
Everything arrived pretty quick and I began the process of mounting the brackets under the mirrors.
I quickly found out that there was a pretty big gap between the mirror flange and the upper fairing behind the headlight.
I called CWL and asked to speak with someone in their tech/install department and discussed the bracket and what I found as an end user. Glenn and Joe and a couple others I think, all got on the phone and they weren't sure I was doing it right I'm sure
, which is understandable as nobody had mentioned any issues with the brackets until now with my question and another person recently.
That same day I sent in a bunch of photos of what I Was experiencing and a week or so later after some internal discussion with what I had experienced, Glenn decided a bracket re-do was needed and more specific instructions for C14 owners. The current instructions were several years old and needed updating.
This is about the time I posted the WANT-ADD for CWL needing a bike to R/D some new bracket options and instructions, or to try to make what they had fit better. After BUBBA ( COG forum member ) jumped on that he got his C14 in their shop and they got down to it and decided another option was needed for end-users.
They came up with two circular pucks and send them off to myself, BUBBA and some other users for testing.
SUCCESS !
This is what they came up with. CNC solid lightweight aluminum.
...and here is the top and bottom of the brackets. You can see how they work. Very solid design,
all aluminum.
But, lets back up just a bit. Bear with me on this next series of photos. They are from my cell phone in
110'F heat in my garage during the installation of the electrical. The phone was convenient.
First I'll get to the power. If you look at this thread:
http://forum.cog-online.org/index.php?topic=58458.0You'll see some of my installation photos
Today I updated these photos of the under seat area and you can view them at the following link, to see
where my fusebox is mounted as it relates to this project. Its also posted here.
These LED's need a 15A circuit all to themselves with fuse.
So taking the tank off was required. I had my wife help me with this and all she did was slide a 2x4 under the
tank before I disconnected everything:
In the above picture, the tank is resting on the board accross the frame and it allows you to reach the
fuel line in the below blurry picture::
The blue or so color clip you just pull sideways and it releases the fuel line, then just pull it off and set
it down as this pic below shows:
I read a few places that said the fuel would not come out because of an internal valve, however it did on mine,
so i connected a piece of hose and clamped with a hemostat at the end and set it on the floor on a 2x4 in the pic
below:
Dont forget the electrical connection and other hoses first!
With that out of the way the pic below is how it looks mostly:
The difference is on the right you see a black/red set of wires in the pic above. That is to my fuseblock. I did not remove the
tank when I ran that wire, and this project was a dual purpose. I Wanted to re route that wire that goes direct
to the battery, so I started that as well in this install and in the pic below you will see where the wires go:
The blue/purple line shows where those two wires are going. Into the battery compartment. I did that with the
seat attached. It worked. But I was concerned with the wires being pinched.
So starting at the bottom, I re routed that set of wires along the right side of the other gas line hoses that
are in the same general area that go from left to right in the bottom of the picture below with the green line:
In the above pic, the wires are covered with a plastic wire conduit ziptied and they sit under that piece of metal
that holds them in place to keep them from rubbing on the tank, or moving. You can get it at autozone.
In the pic below you can see the same green line I painted where the wires for my fuse block come and go up under
that metal plate into the battery compartment.
So in the pic below here, you can see the final routing. On the left side, is the CWL red/black power wires with the
blue line I drew on the image. That goes up under that plate so the tank does not move against it.
The RED lines you see is where your tank feet set on the frame. Make sure these two spaces are clear as the tank
weight and yours sets on these points. On the right side, in green is the fuseblock terminal 10g wire as before.
In the pic below here, the green line shows you where I routed the power wire for the CWL power. It comes out of
the top of the metal plate and follows those hard metal tubes. You can see the black wire cover I used in this
installation as well. The plastic tube is rated to 200'f or so and is used to protect wires. I did this to help
protect the wires from the heat of the bike. Sorry again that the picture is dark.
URL For their wire protectant tube products is :
http://www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html
In the pic below, After all that was complete I put the tank back on. The power wire comes out of the top of the tank near all the
relays, under the metal bracket. I can wiggle the wire back and forth, so I know its not pinched. The wire cover just slides
under the foam and pokes out the other side and drops down to the right side. In this picture you can also see where
I tapped into the high beam relay for BRIGHT mode on the CWL lights. More on that shortly.
In this pic below here, you can see the control modules power wire coming from the control unit. I poked it in there and
zip tied it to the bracket holding that foam plastic insert near where the fuel line vent thing is. I cant possibly
see any issues with sparks or what-not on this, as the CWL control unit is sealed. I poked most of the wires through
the same place where the fuel vents come in and even though this pic shows the power blac/white wire, i ended up tucking it in
behind the foam instead of going out that way.
In this pic below, you can see where I Tapped into the high beam relay and zip tied the wires all neat and tidy. The green tick
mark is the CWL high beam wire. POSI TAPS are included in the kits and are the best thing sine slice bread for splicing /tapping and connecting wires!
So most of the wiring is done at this point. I have not connected the horn feature at this point.
I had to run extensions on their dimmer switch because I put the control box on the other side of the bike. Some basic
soldering was needed, or you can use those posi taps, which work brilliant for this stuff. I also had to ask CWL for a LED extension wire to the control module for the left side as the factory wire didnt reach.
I Routed the dimmer wire up behind the speedo' as you can see in the pic below here. The green marks are the wires from
right to left. I also tapped the accessory 5a cig plug for the ignition power sources right behind the right mirror.
A hole drilled in the center, I think it was 9/32, in the pic below in the center of that blank plug and the end fits through
and you secure it with their nut/washer. The bracket they supply comes OFF and you dont use it in this application.
So with that, the electrical for me is completed.
Now the brackets get mounted up. In the pic below you can see how the puck sits, and the power wire coming from up top.
Remove the three bolts from the under mirror location. Hold that mirror in place. Use the new screws provided with the mount kit.
So now we'll get to some better pictures That I Took more recently. I'm just going to post them in no particular order.
The wires for the LEDs, I ran them under the right/left covers. I notched the edge with my dremel CAREFULLY and just
wide enough to hold onto the wire when it was put back in place. The best place I Found to notch it was over the mirror
itself, and it gave me the most meat of the plastic to hold it down with the screws that hold down the side covers.
Right side:
Left side:
Front:
Mount closeup:
FUSE BLOCK / TAIL SECTION
