Most people would call that part the upper triple clamp; Kawasaki calls it the Steering Stem Head. What-eva. There are a couple of concerns removing it:
1. The ignition switch will come with it, so you need to disconnect the wires to it
2. The loss of support from removing it
Number 1 is no biggie (the fact that there are wires involved would make me disconnect the battery, but the service manual doesn't mention it). Number 2 is something to think about. If you just remove the Stem Head, the fork tubes would twist in the lower triple clamp due to the weight of the bike, which might be a problem. The manual says to remove the front wheel, and that would certainly be the best way to do it. You could also put a jack under the front of the engine and relieve most of the pressure. So, referencing the service manual:
1. Remove the left inner cover (the one directly below the grip). The manual says to remove the windshield to do it, but that's so you can remove one plastic rivet; I've sneaked that rivet out without removing the shield.
2. Remove the storage compartment cover. When you have it off, notice the 2 "tabs" at the front of the cover; those have to hook under the base when you put it back on.
3. Remove the front wheel, or take most of the weight off it. If this step is the least bit unclear to you, just remove the wheel. If you do, put some folded cardboard into the calipers to keep the pads retracted.
4. Remove the handlebar holders. Support the bars so that the brake and clutch master cylinder covers are close to parallel with the ground, otherwise you could leak brake fluid onto a painted surface. If you're worried about it (I always am), drape a sopping-wet towel over the fuel tank to protect it.
5. Remove the bolts holding the brake hoses to the Steering Stem Head.
6. Disconnect the connectors in the wiring to the ignition switch.
7. Open the clamp bolts at the far outside of the Steering Stem Head. They don't have to be removed, but they do have to be completely loose.
8. Remove the Steering Stem Head Bolt and washer (12mm hex driver)
9. Lift the Steering Stem Head away.
This would be a good time to inspect/lube/tighten the Steering Stem Bearings:
Tighten the steering stem nut with 55 N·m (5.6 kgf·m, 41ft·lb) of torque first, and loosen it a fraction of a turn until it turns lightly. Afterward tighten it again with specified torque using a steering stem nut wrench.
Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100
Torque - Steering Stem Nut: 23 N·m (2.3 kgf·m, 17 ft·lb)
Torques:
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Steering Stem Head Bolt: 108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 79.7 ft·lb)*
Handlebar Holder Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)**
Front Axle Nut: 127 N·m (13.0 kgf·m, 93.7 ft·lb)
Front Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)***
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
* - The manual doesn't mention it, but I noticed that the Stem Head Bolt on mine had threadlocker on it, so I used some on mine (Locktite blue, NOT RED!) 80 ft·lb is probably enough to persuade it to stay, but threadlocker is cheap.
** - There's a tightening sequence for these bolts; the bolt farthest from the ignition switch on either side is bolt "1", the one next to it is "2" and the one to the rear is "3". Tighten in the sequence "1-2-3-1".
*** - Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening.
