original H/F tire machine is baaaack....

[Sparkie]

In lieu of paying the No-Mar pricing, simply installing Mojo-Blocks and using a Mojo Lever, will give the same results as the nomar.... for an affordable price




http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm

I picked up the H/F changer yesterday and will be going the route you suggested. Mojo blocks and lever will make this thing first class for the money spent. The only issue is different blocks are needed now as the H/F design changed a little. I can probably machine some up anyway that will work.  Mark

[twowheeladdict]

In lieu of paying the No-Mar pricing, simply installing Mojo-Blocks and using a Mojo Lever, will give the same results as the nomar.... for an affordable price




http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/mojoweb.htm

Cool!  first I heard of those.  Going to check them out.

[B.D.F.]

I did the 'bolt it to the floor' thing with mine and while it works fine, I wish I had welded it to a trailer hitch bar instead. Bolting and unbolting the tire changer is slow and tedious while sliding it into a trailer hitch would be great. Of course then I would not be able to walk all the way around the wheel 'cause the would be a vehicle in the way so I would probably be sorry I did that too.

But back to the actual unit: I find the HF units work great if used with tire irons. I use the bead breaker on the machine and then use the base to hold the wheel while I spoon the tire off / new one on. It may take a few more seconds than using an aftermarket bar but not many.

Brian

The link I gave was for the bike specific upper section adapter, you still need the lower section to make it work.
The lower section can be bolted to a 4 ft square of 3/4 plywood, or you could drill holes in the floor and install moly anchors to bolt it to when needed, and remove it for storage. You can also bolt the bottom section to a piece of square tubing, and insert it into a reciever hitch mounted to your truck, if you have one....

[MAN OF BLUES]

I picked up the H/F changer yesterday and will be going the route you suggested. Mojo blocks and lever will make this thing first class for the money spent. The only issue is different blocks are needed now as the H/F design changed a little. I can probably machine some up anyway that will work.  Mark

the new style H/F machine has a slightly different configuration on that part, but I think it can be remedied by simply cutting off the "top tang" to equal the height of the old parts, and the mojo blocks should work.  They might even work without mods, have to see....

CLICK ON THIS PHOTO AND IT WILL GO TO ZOOM MODE



I'm gonna run over to H/F this afternoon and pick up the new top part as they are still on sale I think...

YEP, THE TOP IS ON SALE FOR $39.99 AND THE ORIGINAL BOTTOM IS ON SALE FOR $42.99
CAN'T BEAT A MACHINE FOR $83

[Sparkie]

  I used my new H/F changer yesterday for the first time and here's some observations.  The bar is crude, I used it to dismount but it wouldn't mount the tire.  I had to finish the last part with regular tire irons.  Solution is I ordered a Mojolever for next time.
  The center post that's supposed to go through the wheel won't fit.  My C10 front wheel axle size is 17mm and that centerpost is about 1" in dia.  Even the rear wheel is smaller than 1" axle dia. so it won't work there either.  I put a smaller dia. metal rod through the wheel and then put the hollow part of the centerpost over that to get it to work.  Just wondering what you guys have done about this?
  I mounted it to plywood for use yesterday but I intend to mount it to the floor after that attempt.  It needs to be more rigid.  For the money it helped make the job easier and I think I can improve on it for next time.  Mark

[Sparkie]

the new style H/F machine has a slightly different configuration on that part, but I think it can be remedied by simply cutting off the "top tang" to equal the height of the old parts, and the mojo blocks should work.  They might even work without mods, have to see....

I made some plastic delrin blocks that fit down into the base part and stick up enough to protect the rim from sitting on metal.  That worked well.  As far as the upright "tang" I think I will just coat it with that plasticoat stuff.  That should work well to protect the rim.  And the "tang" as it is fits well between the tire and rim.  Mark

[timsatx]

Which do you prefer, Mojolever or nomar?

[jim snyder]

Never, EVER use WD40 on a chain.

Silicone spray is much better.

[Outback_Jon]

The center post that's supposed to go through the wheel won't fit.   Just wondering what you guys have done about this?

The earlier models came with two different diameter metal rods to put through the bearings of the wheels.

How well does the new design hold the wheels?  To me, it looks like the hook shaped parts of the earlier ones would be more secure.

[Sparkie]

The earlier models came with two different diameter metal rods to put through the bearings of the wheels.

How well does the new design hold the wheels?  To me, it looks like the hook shaped parts of the earlier ones would be more secure.

I used it only once so far but it held the wheel securely.  I did strap the wheel to the changer to help keep it from rotating. 

I figured that you need to have on hand a couple of various diameter rods for different wheels (front vrs rear)  A 5/8" rod works well for the front wheel (C10) and a 3/4" rod will work for the rear.  Then just lower the H/F centerpost over those rods.  I guess doing wheels off a C14 would need different diameter rods also. 

I'll get it dialed in eventually.  I ordered a better dismount bar.  Mark