Clutch

[pat8228]

Got on my bike today and the clutch lever is very mushy feeling. It doesn't engage until it gets to the last inch or less of pull. When I first pulled it I thought It was completely gone. Would like to get some opinions about this. Could it be the clutch pack or clutch cable? It happened all of sudden. Yesterday I put 100 miles on the bike and it was working properly when I parked it.

2004 Concours
41k miles on it. I put 34k on it in the last 2 years.

Thanks for any help.
Pat

[Mettler1]

  I wouldn't worry about the clutch plates just yet. They usually last a long time and many miles. Most problems are either the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl. Check brake fluid level and if the brake fluid isn't too dirty.  Easiest and cheapest things first.

[Steve in Sunny Fla]

there is no cable. sounds like a hydraulic failure. Steve

[pat8228]

Thanks for the advise. Where is the bleeder valve located at, and do you bleed the clutch like brakes, pull and hold loosen bleeder tighten bleeder and repeat?
thanks

[Mettler1]

   Bleeder is on top of the slave cyl. Same as bleeding brakes. When you do the bleeding make sure cover the tank and other painted surfaces with plastic sheet and rags. Brake fluid not good for paint.

     DOT 3 brake fluid just in case you're wondering.

[pat8228]

Thanks for all the advice. It is the hydraulics. the reservoir was about empty. Filled it up and it works like normal. haven't had to bleed it yet. I just have to find the leak now. it's know where easy to see. I think it my be the slave cylinder. I just need the time to tear it apart and look....thanks again for all the help.

[MetrickMetal]

If the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir is old and looks dirty, suck all of the old fluid out of the reservoir and clean the reservoir as well as the sight glass using Q-tips, then fill with fresh brake fluid and bleed the system. This way your not having to push all of the old fluid in the reservoir clear out the other end, and you also have a nice clean reservoir. I do this with both clutch and brake master cylinders before bleeding them if the fluid is dirty looking.   

[Daytona_Mike]

Now you have to find the leak and fix it.
Maybe you should check the brake fluid level before it gets too low and you pull the lever and nothing happens.

[GeeBeav]

   DOT 3 brake fluid

DOT 4

[T Cro ®]

DOT 4

How about either or.... If I still used either in my bike I would use DOT 4 over DOT 3 as it has a higher boiling point and it is fully compatable with DOT 3 fluid....

[T Cro ®]

2004 Concours
41k miles on it. I put 34k on it in the last 2 years.

When was the last time the master cylinders (3) were checked? They should be checked at the very least once a year and flushed/exchanged every other year... These systems are not truly "sealed" and brake fluid by design is hydroscopic meaning it absorbs moisture.... This also means that you should throw way an open container of brake fluid every other year too.... I just tossed an older bottle that I found forgotten on the shelf and found that even though tightly closed it no longer appeared fresh. I also noted that the old fluid removed from my car that I could actually see the trace water in it...

[vinny]

Have you noticed any signs of drips where you park the bike?
You could try putting the bike on the centre stand and put something underneath it to show up any drips - cement dust, tsc powder etc work well.
This may point you towards finding your leak?

[GeeBeav]

How about either or.... If I still used either in my bike I would use DOT 4 over DOT 3 as it has a higher boiling point and it is ....

. . . specified by Kawasaki and readily available. Why use a lower-spec anything on your brakes?

[Boomer]

10 to 1 it's the slave cylinder seal.
The only other leak I've seen on the clutch hydraulics was a split crush washer where the banjo fitting bolts to the slave cylinder.
Once fixed the best way to bleed the clutch is to leave the slave cylinder unbolted and hold the piston in place with a c-clamp.
Make sure that the bleed nipple is at the top and bleed away.
I use a MityVac on mine and it takes about 15 mins for a clutch fluid change.

[T Cro ®]

. . . specified by Kawasaki and readily available. Why use a lower-spec anything on your brakes?

And you are absolutely right why use anything but the correct fluid.... My old memory banks recalled seeing master cylinders on/in something that were marked DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid... But keep in mind that if in need DOT 3 will work without ill or adverse issues...

[pat8228]

the master cylinder says dot 4 only, so that's what I use. I checked it last summer and it was fine. Didn't check it this year till the problem hit. The clutch felt fine one day the next day it didn't. I normally do a lot of preventive maintenance to it early spring, but its been colder around here than normal, so I just been riding whenever I get a chance.
Thanks for all the replies