Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: fmwhit on May 14, 2012, 02:34:43 PM
-
I have always used conventional oil in the bike. I am now considering after 17k miles to making the switch to synthetic oil. I currently change the oil at abt 1500 miles. I am wondering what is the typical interval to change the oil before the shifting starts getting notchy with synthetic oil?
Fred
-
Oil Thread!!!!
-
Sigh...
-
I have gone from 3000 miles with dino, to 5000 with synthetic. If I changed my oil every 1500, I would be chaning the oil every other weekend.
-
I have always used conventional oil in the bike. I am now considering after 17k miles to making the switch to synthetic oil. I currently change the oil at abt 1500 miles. I am wondering what is the typical interval to change the oil before the shifting starts getting notchy with synthetic oil?
Fred
I'd say that you'd be very safe if you at least doubled your current oil change interval.
-
I have always used conventional oil in the bike. I am now considering after 17k miles to making the switch to synthetic oil. I currently change the oil at abt 1500 miles. I am wondering what is the typical interval to change the oil before the shifting starts getting notchy with synthetic oil?
Fred
You would be wise to extend the oil change interval if you are switching to synthetic due to the price.
If you ride hard, then it is wise to change the oil and filter earlier than you have been advised. Running synthetic for 5000 miles is not going to hurt the engine as my other bike has semi-synthetic oil which gets changed at 6000 miles intervals.
Jon.
-
I have always used conventional oil in the bike. I am now considering after 17k miles to making the switch to synthetic oil. I currently change the oil at abt 1500 miles. I am wondering what is the typical interval to change the oil before the shifting starts getting notchy with synthetic oil?
Fred
If I did that, I'd be changing the oil every couple weeks. I go 5,000 mile intervals, but I ride it pretty hard.
-
the issue is not the engine... when the shifting starts to get notchy, time to change the oil.
-
With today's oils there is no need to change oil at 1500 miles. The book calls for 7500 miles and that's with conventional oil. Synthetic oil is made to go 10,000 miles between changes, the problem is what shape is you oil filter in at that point. Shell Rotella T6 is a full synthetic and it only cost about $25.00 a gallon. A big percentage of Gold Wing riders use it in the Gold wings with great results.
-
Motul - 300V Ester Synthetic Oil here 9k with no problem
-
the issue is not the engine... when the shifting starts to get notchy, time to change the oil.
Amen
-
:banghead:
-
:banghead:
:deadhorse: ;D
-
I go by the book and change at 7500 miles but I do use synthetic.
-
. Shell Rotella T6 is a full synthetic and it only cost about $25.00 a gallon. A big percentage of Gold Wing riders use it in the Gold wings with great results.
"Fully synthetic"? Care to define? Rotella is hydrocracked dino oil, nothing more. I used Rotella for years, then when the new T6 crap came out, I tried it and within 50 miles, my suzuki had bad shifty and grabby clutch. Dumped the oil and replaced with real synthetic (pao/ester blend) and been good for the last couple of years.
-
By the way OP, thank you for giving me another oil thread in which to participate.
I don't think I could bring myself to change the oil at 7,500 miles using mineral oil though. I might consider it with synthetic.
-
I have always used conventional oil in the bike. I am now considering after 17k miles to making the switch to synthetic oil. I currently change the oil at abt 1500 miles. I am wondering what is the typical interval to change the oil before the shifting starts getting notchy with synthetic oil?
Fred
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif)
-
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif) (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/eek.gif)
Must have more dollars than cents (sense). ::)
-
OK, well, here is my post to add to the "yet another oil thread"...
I use synthetic in all my vehicles after breakin (usually my second oil change). The main plus of synthetic is that it lasts much longer. It probably performs better in other ways (less wear, better stick, better resistance to contamination, etc, etc) but everything is arguable. Most people will agree that synthetic oil absolutely lasts way longer before breakdown.
I typically double the recommended oil change period and ignore the time period or at least double that too. So if the recommendation is (as it is for the Concours) "replace oil every 7,500 miles or 12 months", I will replace every 15,000 and don't care about how long that is. Has served me fine for many, many years.
-
:yikes: ;)
-
OK, well, here is my post to add to the "yet another oil thread"...
I use synthetic in all my vehicles after breakin (usually my second oil change). The main plus of synthetic is that it lasts much longer. It probably performs better in other ways (less wear, better stick, better resistance to contamination, etc, etc) but everything is arguable. Most people will agree that synthetic oil absolutely lasts way longer before breakdown.
I typically double the recommended oil change period and ignore the time period or at least double that too. So if the recommendation is (as it is for the Concours) "replace oil every 7,500 miles or 12 months", I will replace every 15,000 and don't care about how long that is. Has served me fine for many, many years.
Do you go 15,000 miles in your Concours?
-
the issue is not the engine... when the shifting starts to get notchy, time to change the oil.
I always change my oil BEFORE my shifting gets notchy... because it NEVER gets notchy, except that time I forgot to tighten the shift rod adjuster lock nut. I use synthetic and change my oil at around 6000.
-
Do you go 15,000 miles in your Concours?
Hell no! I only have 3,500 miles on my year-old bike right now. I live walking distance to work, have little time during the week to ride, and my body can't take long drives anymore.
My only point was that you can easily double the miles and double or triple (or more) the time frame for oil changes with synthetic. It will be a looooong time before I change the (now synthetic) oil in my Concours :)
-
Mobil 1 RULES! The rest just drools. :stirpot: :hitfan:
-
I will replace every 15,000 and don't care about how long that is. Has served me fine for many, many years.
I only have 3,500 miles on my year-old bike right now. I live walking distance to work, have little time during the week to ride, and my body can't take long drives anymore.
So Max you're not gonna change your Connie oil for 5 years?? :o
-
Mobil 1 RULES! The rest just drools. :stirpot: :hitfan:
Not the oil it used to be IMHO.
-
So Max you're not gonna change your Connie oil for 5 years?? :o
Well, I hope to be riding more frequently in the future. But, who knows.
5 years? Probably not. After 3 years I will probably replace it just for the hell of it. Don't panic, good oil doesn't fall apart just sitting in the bike anymore than it does sitting in a bottle on the shelf.
-
I always change my oil BEFORE my shifting gets notchy... because it NEVER gets notchy, except that time I forgot to tighten the shift rod adjuster lock nut. I use synthetic and change my oil at around 6000.
Wait a minute; you forgot to tighten up a fastener? :o ;)
-
:yikes: :rotflmao:
-
I've always believed that virtually any oil, synthetic or not will last a long time from a chemical standpoint. The problem is that if you take shorter rides or let the bike sit for extended periods that the bigger issue is oil becoming contaminated from moisture. In that case, it doesn't matter if the oil is synthetic or not.
I run synthetic in everything I have, but I don't do it to extend my oil change intervals. I do it because I believe that synthetic oil is a better and more stable oil that holds up to extreme temperatures and "abuse" better than conventional oils.
-
Wait a minute; you forgot to tighten up a fastener? :o ;)
:rotflmao: :stirpot:
-
I use moble 1....change oil and filter when I change rear PS3...
-
And what better place to do 100 posts than an oil thread!
-
2-3k with synthetic for me!
-
Moisture - does anyone know the point of no return, IE: if you're oil show's signs of moisture/milkiness, is it possible that the moisture will burn off after 30 minutes? 60 minutes? Ever? Just curious. I should have "tested" my old mower before giving it away. I should have mixed in enough water to get the oil to start changing appearance, then let it run for a while to see if it burns away.
-
Moisture - does anyone know the point of no return, IE: if you're oil show's signs of moisture/milkiness, is it possible that the moisture will burn off after 30 minutes? 60 minutes? Ever? Just curious. I should have "tested" my old mower before giving it away. I should have mixed in enough water to get the oil to start changing appearance, then let it run for a while to see if it burns away.
Go into your kitchen and get the blender out. Dump some motor oil and water in and hit the high button, don't forget the lid. Let 'er mix away for a couple of minutes. Dump the goop into a pan and let it simmer on the stove for a while and see what happens. If your wife objects, tell her your doing research for the guys on your MC forum, she'll understand.
-
Moisture - does anyone know the point of no return, IE: if you're oil show's signs of moisture/milkiness, is it possible that the moisture will burn off after 30 minutes? 60 minutes? Ever? Just curious. I should have "tested" my old mower before giving it away. I should have mixed in enough water to get the oil to start changing appearance, then let it run for a while to see if it burns away.
If your oil is milky, change it. And then try to figure out what's causing the milkiness.
-
Moisture - does anyone know the point of no return, IE: if you're oil show's signs of moisture/milkiness, is it possible that the moisture will burn off after 30 minutes? 60 minutes? Ever? Just curious. I should have "tested" my old mower before giving it away. I should have mixed in enough water to get the oil to start changing appearance, then let it run for a while to see if it burns away.
I don't know if it works that way or not, but let me share a saying an old boss of mine used to have about employees who were trouble makers..."you can mix ice cream and cow manure - it doesn't hurt the manure, but it plays hell with the ice cream".
-
I don't know if it works that way or not, but let me share a saying an old boss of mine used to have about employees who were trouble makers..."you can mix ice cream and cow manure - it doesn't hurt the manure, but it plays hell with the ice cream".
That's a wise man.
-
It really doesn't take much moisture in the oil at all to cause a milky appearance on the sight glass. The condensate collects right at the edge of the top of the oil level. Short trips and cold weather will cause that.
-
It really doesn't take much moisture in the oil at all to cause a milky appearance on the sight glass. The condensate collects right at the edge of the top of the oil level. Short trips and cold weather will cause that.
Trudat
[smg id=249]