Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: maxtog on May 20, 2011, 08:43:01 PM
-
OK, can't stand it anymore. The brake lever is just TOO FAR AWAY, even on the closest setting. While my hands might not be all that huge, I do wear a "large" in the last gloves I purchased. Stock decor, they were too far away. When I added the grip puppies, that just made it a little worse. I tried rotating them back/up some, that didn't really help.
In a normal riding position, my pinky isn't on the lever at all. My index finger is on the top of the lever but can't participate. Only a small amount of my middle and ring fingers wrap around enough to actually pull the lever. I just don't feel "in control" nor safe. The clutch lever is the same problem, but doesn't bother me as much, because I use it less, plus I often ride "prepared to brake", I never ride "prepared to clutch".
So... what to do? Bending cast aluminum is never a good idea. Should I take apart the lever stuff and grind down the shiny plate some? Has anyone done that? Other ideas?
-
The adjustment mechanism offers a pretty good range of adjustment (1 - 6). I also wear Large gloves but don't have any problem. Aside from changing to after-market parts, bending the lever is about all you can do. With the proper application of heat I thing they could be bent a small amount.
-
Have you looked at something like this:
http://shop.the2wheels.com/CNC-Adjustable-Clutch-Brake-Levers-Set-for-Kawasaki-Lever-Set-Kawasaki.htm (http://shop.the2wheels.com/CNC-Adjustable-Clutch-Brake-Levers-Set-for-Kawasaki-Lever-Set-Kawasaki.htm)
-
I find this odd. I have extremely small hands for a dude my size (thanks mom), but I just checked and with the levers adjusted all the way (5 on the clutch, 6 on the front brake -- no idea why they have one more notch on the brake :o) I have an easy 3 fingers on both clutch and brake.
That said, I wouldn't mind something aftermarket that moves both levers just a skoosh closer. I'm looking at some of the billet stuff (the good stuff, none of the eBay cheap crap).
Anything that fits the ZX14R also fits the C14, according to the catalogs I've looked at. The Giles Tooling version offers a 25mm (1/4 inch) adjustment span, as one example. Pretty sure that's more than the stock Kawi. Lots of choices, some pretty pricey, but I'm with you in that I'd like an easier reach to the brake lever. I'll be pulling the trigger on some new levers maybe this weekend. Will let you know how they feel.
-
The adjustment mechanism offers a pretty good range of adjustment (1 - 6).
Look, I was surprised. I had no such issues on the ZRX at all. I double checked I was on the closest setting. I even have my friend look at it to make sure I was not insane... I'm not!
I also wear Large gloves but don't have any problem.
I am PROBABLY a medium on gloves, I shouldn't have even thrown out the size, because I have several gloves and I have fit fine in S, M, and L of different brands. Not exactly scientific. Here is something a little more scientific:
Between index and middle finger, index finger 2 5/8", middle finger 3 1/16". Between middle and ring, middle finger 3 1/16", ring finger 2 5/8". Between ring and pinky, pinky 2". 7 1/4" from palm wrist crease closest to hand and tip of middle finger. I am not keen on anatomy, maybe my hand is unusual in some way.
Aside from changing to after-market parts, bending the lever is about all you can do. With the proper application of heat I thing they could be bent a small amount.
I am not keen on aftermarket, since there is no way to know if that will help or not (they never provide all the measurements really needed. My [master mechanic and bike-riding friend] told me, point-blank, "no" on the bending.... just too risky, since if it was weakened too much, he wouldn't trust it not to break when applying the brakes HARD in a panic.
I only need about 6mm more at the end, I think :(
-
Have you looked at something like this:
http://shop.the2wheels.com/CNC-Adjustable-Clutch-Brake-Levers-Set-for-Kawasaki-Lever-Set-Kawasaki.htm (http://shop.the2wheels.com/CNC-Adjustable-Clutch-Brake-Levers-Set-for-Kawasaki-Lever-Set-Kawasaki.htm)
Well- as with most aftermarket levers, there is no way to really know if they are MORE adjustable than the stock ones.... other than asking someone that has actually installed them on the same bike.
-
I find this odd. I have extremely small hands for a dude my size (thanks mom), but I just checked and with the levers adjusted all the way (5 on the clutch, 6 on the front brake -- no idea why they have one more notch on the brake :o) I have an easy 3 fingers on both clutch and brake.
That said, I wouldn't mind something aftermarket that moves both levers just a skoosh closer. I'm looking at some of the billet stuff (the good stuff, none of the eBay cheap crap).
Anything that fits the ZX14R also fits the C14, according to the catalogs I've looked at. The Giles Tooling version offers a 25mm (1/4 inch) adjustment span, as one example. Pretty sure that's more than the stock Kawi. Lots of choices, some pretty pricey, but I'm with you in that I'd like an easier reach to the brake lever. I'll be pulling the trigger on some new levers maybe this weekend. Will let you know how they feel.
Keep in mind I have the grip puppies on also, and that extra 3/16" or something of foam will push me further away from the levers. Yet I gotta have it or my hand is a wreck (the stock ones are thin and HARD AS A ROCK).
But yeah, let me know. I am still wondering if I can somehow grind down the striker plate a tad on the stock one.... might take it apart today...
-
Keep in mind I have the grip puppies on also, and that extra 3/16" or something of foam will push me further away from the levers. Yet I gotta have it or my hand is a wreck (the stock ones are thin and HARD AS A ROCK).
But yeah, let me know. I am still wondering if I can somehow grind down the striker plate a tad on the stock one.... might take it apart today...
Well, I just ordered a set (2 sets actually, different brands) and should have on Tuesday. I'll see how they compare to stock and post some pix.
Got them in anodized BLUE to match the bike. ;D
-
I even have my friend look at it to make sure I was not insane... I'm not!
That's debatible Max... ;)
-
just make sure they fully "release" all pressure on the system, and especially the brake switch... we have seen problems in that area recently with a/m levers holding the brake switch "on"...
-
I have completed my modification of the brake lever. This is what I did:
First I measured. No point in experimenting if I have nothing to report back. Just for reference, I measured all the positions. 6 is, of course, the most important. So stock, it became the "0" reference for both the inbound (index finger) and outbound (at the ball, nearest the pinky finger). All measurements are, of course, in mm. First measurement is inbound second is outbound:
6: 0 0
5: +2 +4
4: +4 +8
3: +6 +12
2: +8 +17
1: +11 +21
I removed the lever assembly by removing the bottom nut and then unscrewing the top bolt. To my dismay, I learned the two parts of the lever assembly are held together with a pressed-in tube. You have to remove that tube to do anything, and it is tricky. I spent considerable time finding just the right stuff to use with my bench vice to get that sucker out.
Once it is out, you can see how it works. The wheel has a bunch of different surface depths and it presses against a tiny rectangular steel block on the other part of the assembly, that is held on there with a small pin. I used a bench grinder to grind as much material as I could while still leaving enough for possible wear and to prevent that pin from having to little material to anchor into. I should have measured but didn't. I am guessing I took about 1mm. I put it back together again (yeesh) so I could measure on the bike. Improvement, but not all that much:
6: -2 -3
So I took it apart again and went after the wheel. Caution: when you pull the wheel out, there is a small spring and a pip that are inserted into the bottom of it and they are easy to lose! I then took the grinder to the #6 flat surface, which happens to be the largest surface. Unfortunately, I noticed copper color, then silver under it... so this is likely heavily plated steel. That means now I can look forward to rust. Oh well... too late now!. The limit to the grinding is the tube that holds the spring and pip. So I ground about 1 to 1.25mm off that surface also. While I was at it, I ground away a little on the #5 surface too. Reassembled and measured (remember, this is all relative to #6, stock):
6: -4 -6
5: -2 -3
So there you have it. About an hour of work, and I gained only 4mm closer inbound and 6mm closer outbound, plus I risk having future rust problems with the adjustment wheel. I am not sure I would recommend this procedure, but it did cost nothing and did gain some. I am not sure if the gains are enough, but I will find out when I ride tomorrow. I don't think it is possible to gain more from the stock lever without resorting to somehow bending it. Various pictures below...
-
I am not sure if the gains are enough, but I will find out when I ride tomorrow.
Hundreds of miles later... yes, they made a difference. And it seems like enough difference to have been worth the time.
-
Between index and middle finger, index finger 2 5/8", middle finger 3 1/16". Between middle and ring, middle finger 3 1/16", ring finger 2 5/8". Between ring and pinky, pinky 2". 7 1/4" from palm wrist crease closest to hand and tip of middle finger. I am not keen on anatomy, maybe my hand is unusual in some way.
Odd, my hand measurements are slightly less than yours, and I've never had any issues with the clutch or brake reach. I also have a set of Murphs Grips over the stock heated grips, which takes even more reach.
In fact, the other day when the clutch was mis-behaving (http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1072.msg11198#msg11198 (http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1072.msg11198#msg11198)), I played with the adjusters, and set both sides to 3, from 5 & 6. I think they are still at that setting.
-
Odd, my hand measurements are slightly less than yours, and I've never had any issues with the clutch or brake reach. I also have a set of Murphs Grips over the stock heated grips, which takes even more reach
I can't explain it either. But I know my adjusters are correct and were working properly (since I took everything apart).
-
I've got giant hands. I really notice it when I take a leak. ;D
I keep both levers as close to the bars as possible to avoid having to reach.
I also have noticed that the shifter lever was adjusted too high at the factory. I moved it down quite a bit, and it's really helped alot.
-
I've got giant hands. I really notice it when I take a leak. ;D
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/rolling20on20the20floor20laughing.gif)(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/rolling20on20the20floor20laughing.gif)(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/rolling20on20the20floor20laughing.gif)
-
I've got giant hands. I really notice it when I take a leak. ;D
I must have tiny hands..... Wait, my glove size is 3x-4x......
-
Well This thread is baaaaaaaaaaaack.
Great write up and pictorial. I'm wondering if where the first piece of the handle pushes on the MC rod could be modded?
-
Well This thread is baaaaaaaaaaaack.
Good thing, too!
Great write up and pictorial. I'm wondering if where the first piece of the handle pushes on the MC rod could be modded?
Not sure about that
-
I just grabbed a used lever off fleabay I'll look at ways to adjust it closer to the bar while standing on your shoulders Maxtog. ::)