Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: ZedHed on March 10, 2012, 05:27:56 PM
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For those of you that think Rotella T 15w-40 is good oil for the C-14, this link may change your minds. This link is to a used oil analysis of Rotella T 15w-40 after 4000 miles in a C14. The oil has sheared down to nearly a 20 weight just as I suspected it would. It also shows that the C14 is VERY hard on oil -- probably because of the driveshaft output gears and the shared oil transmission. Data indicates that the RTS T-6 5w-40 would fare just as badly.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2441506&page=1 (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2441506&page=1)
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::) .......and yet nobody, yes nobody has had any kind of premature wear issues or engines problems whatsover and at all from using it. BOBISTHEOILGUY website is full of a bunch of lunatics, they have serious issues worrying so much about oil. How about we run a C14 for 100k on Rotella 15W40 and we crack open the case, I am betting it will still look like new. PARANOIA WILL DESTROY YA!!!!!
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::) .......and yet nobody, yes nobody has had any kind of premature wear issues or engines problems whatsover and at all from using it. BOBISTHEOILGUY website is full of a bunch of lunatics, they have serious issues worrying so much about oil. How about we run a C14 for 100k on Rotella 15W40 and we crack open the case, I am betting it will still look like new. PARANOIA WILL DESTROY YA!!!!!
What he said :stirpot:
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Almost forgot :popcorn:
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By the way.......I run that exact oil, so I will report back my results at 100K.
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Just curious but did you read the thread at the link you posted? Sure the Rotella lost viscosity but what is the norm. or average? In fact some of the other posters said that other 10W-40 weight oils show about the same viscosity after a bit of use in a motorcycle. Also, did you notice the gasoline content in the second sample? That alone will thin any oil regardless of the base weight.
The quality or suitability of Rotella mineral oil to be used in a C-14 aside, that link does not show anything definitive because there is no comparison to other oils. Again, the only way an oil can really be measured is compared with other oils because all oil will pick up contaminates, thin down and lose additives; the only real question is which oil performs better than the average, or better yet, which oil performs best.
Brian
For those of you that think Rotella T 15w-40 is good oil for the C-14, this link may change your minds. This link is to a used oil analysis of Rotella T 15w-40 after 4000 miles in a C14. The oil has sheared down to nearly a 20 weight just as I suspected it would. It also shows that the C14 is VERY hard on oil -- probably because of the driveshaft output gears and the shared oil transmission. Data indicates that the RTS T-6 5w-40 would fare just as badly.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2441506&page=1 (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2441506&page=1)
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You'll never make it.... In fact, I think your engine is probably worn out already.
;D
Brian
By the way.......I run that exact oil, so I will report back my results at 100K.
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::) .......and yet nobody, yes nobody has had any kind of premature wear issues or engines problems whatsover and at all from using it. BOBISTHEOILGUY website is full of a bunch of lunatics, they have serious issues worrying so much about oil. How about we run a C14 for 100k on Rotella 15W40 and we crack open the case, I am betting it will still look like new. PARANOIA WILL DESTROY YA!!!!!
Whatsa matter? Don't like the truth?
How many high-mileage C14 engines have you had your hands in? Yeah, right -- just like I thought... When you get some engine-building experience, feel free to comment further.......
The C14 engine is a very high-output engine in addition to having the extra complexity of the drive system. Racers don't use tractor oil in their engines and neither should you. It doesn't even have the high levels of ZDDP anymore -- useless !!
Me? I'll continue to use Maxima Extra 15w-50 Synthetic and smilin' all the way
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Whatsa matter? Don't like the truth?
How many high-mileage C14 engines have you had your hands in? Yeah, right -- just like I thought... When you get some engine-building experience, feel free to comment further.......
The C14 engine is a very high-output engine in addition to having the extra complexity of the drive system. Racers don't use tractor oil in their engines and neither should you. It doesn't even have the high levels of ZDDP anymore -- useless !!
Me? I'll continue to use Maxima Extra 15w-50 Synthetic and smilin' all the way
OK Mr. Sheeple.......keep blowing your wad on that gourmet oil, the companies love ya for it. My C14 will be running just as long if not longer than yours, except I will have a considerable amount more in my wallet. And I guarantee a truck or heavy equipment runs much harder than a C14 does. Oh and I am not a racer......and neither are you! And when you get some common sense, feel free to comment further.
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(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/kwjweiww.gif)
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I love oil threads just for their entertainment value. That being said I have to chime in on this one to defend "tractor oil".
I guarantee the R&D spent on tractors is many many times greater than motorcycles. I've run many agricultural engines without any oil related issues for many years. My favorite oil is Rotella dino. The abuse that ag engines endure is incredible compared to bikes. Granted they don't share with the tranny but replacement of tranny oil is measured in thousands of hours so I really doubt that the C14 tranny destroys oil that fast.
I use rotella synth in my connie and have every confidence in it's protective capabilities.
One of my favorite things about oil threads is the guys changing oil in the fall when they put their bike away then again in the spring when they take it out again. Does this make any sense to them? Unless you ride a Harley and go out to the garage and start your bike every day just to hear it fart, what could possibly have changed since you put the bike away? Talk about wasting money and resources.
Anyway, carry on with this thread, I'm gonna go get a beer.
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I understand both sides, but some how, some way, there are gang load of people using Rotella! I know people with Goldwings, BMWs, Honda ST and lot of us using Rotella. I have yet heard anything bad about the oil...
I would love to use a $11/qt oil everytime, but man that's a lot of money! I am sure those expensive oil are better, but I'm just stick with Rotella!
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I understand both sides, but so how, so way, there are gang load of people using Rotella! I know people with Goldwings, BMWs, Honda ST and lot of us using Rotella. I have yet heard anything bad about the oil...
I would love to use a $11/qt oil everytime, but man that's a lot of money! I am sure those expensive oil are better, but I'm just stick with Rotella!
Don't be so sure about that. ;)
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Love me some syn Rotella
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Relax Relax, use the oil you want, at the end it is your motorcycle. peace people
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Relax Relax, use the oil you want, at the end it is your motorcycle. peace people
As long as there are more than 2 companies making motorcycles, oil and tires we will see this type of behavior.
I have been known to get on my soapbox for the same type of insignificant personal issues until I came to realize exactly what you said above.
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For those of you that don't think Rotella will protect your motor, go ahead and buy the synthetic that is made from unicorn tears and the sweat of 400 virgins. I'll stick with 2,000-3,000 mile intervals with my Rotella, and we will all still throw each other the wave when we pass out on the road.
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I think the Rotella protects and have had several clutch companies recommend rotella. What I dont like is shifting. I feel like its very notchy and causes several false neutrals to show up. Its nto so bad on the c14 (but not good) but is awful in my sv 650 and yz 250. I feel like regular cheap, dyno motorcycle oil from pep boys shifts better.
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I understand both sides, but some how, some way, there are gang load of people using Rotella! I know people with Goldwings, BMWs, Honda ST and lot of us using Rotella. I have yet heard anything bad about the oil...
I would love to use a $11/qt oil everytime, but man that's a lot of money! I am sure those expensive oil are better, but I'm just stick with Rotella!
Look folks, I'm not saying that Rotella is a "bad" oil -- it's not. It is just not a good oil for the C-14 engine. The Goldwing engine has been shown to be very easy on oil, it doesn't shear the oil badly or have lots of contaminants. The C14 UOAs are showing lots of oil shear and fuel contamination which is not good for oil life. My contention is that the C14 engine needs a very robust oil to even begin to use Kawasaki's 7500 mile OCI recommendation. The best way to analyze how any oil is holding up in an engine is to have an oil analysis done which is what that link was to show.
Even the truckers who use Rotella do oil analysis on their oil..........
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I switched to and am currently running the mentioned rotella. I've noticed a hard bump when shifting gears. Other then that seems to be ok, but I am going to try Castrol "power RS racing 4T 10W-40 full synthetic" at the 7500 mile change. After owning 16 different bikes over the years I've learned that finding the right oil for your bike that feels right to YOU is what you end up sticking with in that particular bike. I've always went through several different oils in all of my bikes until I found the one that performed the best in that bike.
Sometimes it does'nt have to cost alot or have a big brand name, it's what you feel comfortable with. My last Harley performed best on Mobil one V twin synthetic. Cost was high, but it performed the best for that bike.
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I used to use Rotella 5-40 in my suzuki and Jetta TDI. A shop that specialized in VW TDI repair noticed a a growing number of TDI's coming in with bad turbos. They had two things in common:
1) Shaft had bluing
2) Owners all used the reformulated Rotella 5-40 (which has less zddp)
I did an oil change with new rotella and clutch was grabby, shifting was notchy, switched to Maxima, all was better.
As for expensive oil oil, yeah, it is easy to spend $11 a qt, but I went to an oil wholeseller who also sells to the public and I get Redline bike oil, 10-40 for under $8 a qt.
It is a fact that rotella will shear down to a 30w oil, that is the VI stuff being broken down. It is also a fact that Kawa recommends a warm viscosity of at least 40w. However, in all honesty, I have yet to see an oil analysis of rotella (sheared down to a 5-30) showing elevated wear metals. In fact, you could probably run a high quality 5-30w synthetic with no ill effects. I saw a oil analysis of a ZX 14 where, after 1800 miles, the Rotella sheered to a 30w. Yet, metal levels (wear) were still in the acceptable range-go figure.
I think the most common reason for using Rotella is to save $ and people who do use it will often add that they change it often, maybe every 3500. I change my oil every 7000 miles or once a year, so that probably brings the end cost down to closer what it would cost if I used Rotella with changes every 3500 miles (I forget how much that stuff costs).
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I have never used Rotella, but I did use dino oil for the first couple of changes on the C-14 and then switched to syn. The difference in the shifting was night and day. No more clunking. I will stick with syn. I use Royal Purple - expensive but WTH.
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Is this an oil thread :D
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/gaytroll.gif)(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/gaytroll.gif)(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/gaytroll.gif)
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IMO most engine wear generally occurs at start up .
ALL oils will deterate with time
HIGH gasoline content in the oil is generally a sign fuel injector not shutting completly when the engine is switched off and it drips a bit into the combution area given time it leaks past the rings
If anyone is worried about a 20-40 going to a 30 just start with a 20-50 or 15-50 next time
When the cost of oil changes worries anyone they should go and earn some more $$$ and foget about it
BY the way I use MOBIL ONE GOLD CAP witch cost me $99 for 5 litre in Australia so do not bitch about $11 a quart oil !! A new Kawasaki 1400 is about $24,000 in Australia .
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mobile 1 4t at a little over 6 bucks a quart, how can you go wrong? using rotella over this to save how much? foolish.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98JA11-Racing-10W-40-Motorcycle/dp/B004U8JH84 (http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98JA11-Racing-10W-40-Motorcycle/dp/B004U8JH84)
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mobile 1 4t at a little over 6 bucks a quart, how can you go wrong? using rotella over this to save how much? foolish.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98JA11-Racing-10W-40-Motorcycle/dp/B004U8JH84 (http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98JA11-Racing-10W-40-Motorcycle/dp/B004U8JH84)
Am I missing something. Does that not work out to be almost $10 a quart? Still not a bad deal compared to the $15-$16 in these parts.
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Am I missing something. Does that not work out to be almost $10 a quart? Still not a bad deal compared to the $15-$16 in these parts.
Frank, you are just bad at math. It's simple: $59 / 6qts = just over $6 per quart. Got it now?
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Frank, you are just bad at math. It's simple: $59 / 6qts = just over $6 per quart. Got it now?
Where are you buying M-1 4T for that price? Wallymart gets almost $10 per qt. I can get Maxima 15w-50 online for about $11 per - so I choose it.
BTW, I go with 5000 mile OCI's and the Maxima is still a 40 weight, plus it starts out with 3800 ppm of ZDDP which is 4 times the amount in any other oil on the market. Rotella T and 6T now has only about 900 ppm of ZDDP with it's new formulation (CJ-4 vs older CI-4 standard) Consider: if you are using 3000 mile OCI's with Rotella 6T at $6 per qt. you are about the same as using more expensive oil with longer OCI's.
Just something to think about......
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Frank, you are just bad at math. It's simple: $59 / 6qts = just over $6 per quart. Got it now?
American math must be different than Canadian math....$9.83 by my made in China calculator. ;)
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Frank, you are just bad at math. It's simple: $59 / 6qts = just over $6 per quart. Got it now?
List Price: $101.70
Price: $59.00 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. Details
Deal Price:
You Save: $42.70 (42%)
Maybe he is looking at the $42.70 price, but then even that is $7 bucks worth. But hey, up here in Canada we have the METRIC system which has been screwing all of us since 1976! ;D
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Just curious but did you read the thread at the link you posted? Sure the Rotella lost viscosity but what is the norm. or average? In fact some of the other posters said that other 10W-40 weight oils show about the same viscosity after a bit of use in a motorcycle. Also, did you notice the gasoline content in the second sample? That alone will thin any oil regardless of the base weight.
The quality or suitability of Rotella mineral oil to be used in a C-14 aside, that link does not show anything definitive because there is no comparison to other oils. Again, the only way an oil can really be measured is compared with other oils because all oil will pick up contaminates, thin down and lose additives; the only real question is which oil performs better than the average, or better yet, which oil performs best.
Brian
What he said. Crap! I just responded to an oil thread! :yikes: :banghead:
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American math must be different than Canadian math....$9.83 by my made in China calculator. ;)
The math is the same. It's the "just over" part that is different.
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The math is the same. It's the "just over" part that is different.
:rotflmao: :rotflmao:
The only thing better than an oil thread is a math thread. :popcorn:
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Are we talking US Quarts or British Quarts? :o ??? ::) ;D :-X
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Someone say 'British Quarts'? :)
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Mind your P's and Q's Jim.
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After reading the oilguy thread I come away with the impression that no 10W40 oil is good enuff as far as shear resistance. But no hard evidence since the link to the actaul data is broken. I just requested a blackstone kit and will get a test when my Rotella is ripe, currently at 4572. I usually change at 6000 but may go at 5000 if I get the kit in time. Then I will run some designer oil for the same miles and do another test. My 08 is at 71,000 miles and I have always used SRT 5W40 except for the first change at 600 using Kawi Dino and one change at about 50,000 using Motul Synth 10W40.
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Advance Auto Parts $7.99 castrol 4T
Until 23 of March.
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dont know how i screwed u p the simple math but even at 9 bucks a quart its not worth going to anything slightly cheaper.
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:rotflmao: :rotflmao:
The only thing better than an oil thread is a math thread. :popcorn:
Because, after all, there are only three kinds of people in th world. Those who can do math, and those who can't.
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Because, after all, there are only three kinds of people in th world. Those who can do math, and those who can't.
:rotflmao:
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Yeah, each quart costs 6 dollars and 383 cents.
And a new C-14 (retail) costs 6 dollars and 1,589,300 cents.
Brian
Frank, you are just bad at math. It's simple: $59 / 6qts = just over $6 per quart. Got it now?
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Because, after all, there are only three kinds of people in th world. Those who can do math, and those who can't.
I don't get it...? ???
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I don't get it...? ???
Reads like a crock err somethin' to me! A Rotella lover, Lew ;)
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Don't worry about it. It's a math thing.
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mobile 1 4t at a little over 6 bucks a quart, how can you go wrong? using rotella over this to save how much? foolish.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98JA11-Racing-10W-40-Motorcycle/dp/B004U8JH84 (http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-98JA11-Racing-10W-40-Motorcycle/dp/B004U8JH84)
Just ordered me some of that and a KN-303. And yeah, you're math is a bit off. ;D
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"You're" Jebus, rather pathetic making fun of someone's math, when I can't get the grammar correct. ;D
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"You're" Jebus, rather pathetic making fun of someone's math, when I can't get the grammar correct. ;D
I was just chuckling to myself about that and almost spit beer all over my wife's iPad when I read your (or is it you're :D ) response.
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Who woulda thunk it, that an oil thread can be this much fun! :popcorn:
Because, after all, there are only three kinds of people in the world. Those who can do math, and those who can't.
:goodpost:
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I love the way people try to out engineer the actual engineers who designed the bike. The manufacturer calls for a certain type of oil and then people question its suitability for the bike based on a "study" that doesn't compare the oil studied to other oils. I can guarantee that the engineers took into account the end viscosity of the oil after the specified service life. I am willing to bet that any oil used in the bike will lose viscosity by the end of the specified service interval. If you use the oil specified, not worrying about synthetic or dino oil, change it along with the filter at the specified intervals, you will have no oil related issues. ::)
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I love the way people try to out engineer the actual engineers who designed the bike. The manufacturer calls for a certain type of oil and then people question its suitability for the bike based on a "study" that doesn't compare the oil studied to other oils. I can guarantee that the engineers took into account the end viscosity of the oil after the specified service life. I am willing to bet that any oil used in the bike will lose viscosity by the end of the specified service interval. If you use the oil specified, not worrying about synthetic or dino oil, change it along with the filter at the specified intervals, you will have no oil related issues. ::)
+1
I would imagine that the designers decide on miles between changes after assuming that a reasonable person would put in a middle-of-the-road oil. Then they specify how many miles that's likely to work. Most likely, they decide on that mileage and then cut it in half for the manual, just to cover their tails. JMHO
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I love the way people try to out engineer the actual engineers who designed the bike. The manufacturer calls for a certain type of oil and then people question its suitability for the bike based on a "study" that doesn't compare the oil studied to other oils. I can guarantee that the engineers took into account the end viscosity of the oil after the specified service life. I am willing to bet that any oil used in the bike will lose viscosity by the end of the specified service interval. If you use the oil specified, not worrying about synthetic or dino oil, change it along with the filter at the specified intervals, you will have no oil related issues. ::)
Rotella is JA motorcycle rated per the manufacturers :D
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I love me some Rotella!!!
I change my oil every 3,000 miles on the dot with Rotella and will continue doing so. 44,000 miles on my last bike and 22,000 miles on my 2010. Feels like new!!!
If you said Walmart was bad. I would be in total agreement.
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I love the way people try to out engineer the actual engineers who designed the bike. The manufacturer calls for a certain type of oil and then people question its suitability for the bike based on a "study" that doesn't compare the oil studied to other oils. I can guarantee that the engineers took into account the end viscosity of the oil after the specified service life. I am willing to bet that any oil used in the bike will lose viscosity by the end of the specified service interval. If you use the oil specified, not worrying about synthetic or dino oil, change it along with the filter at the specified intervals, you will have no oil related issues. ::)
And the stock tires are great, right? ;)
When things progress to oil and math in one thread it belongs in da Arena ;D Throw in grammer and it belongs in a 'Busa forum ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Add tires to the mix and it belongs in a Harley forum :o
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My lawnmower likes rotella.
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Another winning oil thread indeed (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/bigthumb.gif)
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And the stock tires are great, right? ;)
When things progress to oil and math in one thread it belongs in da Arena ;D Throw in grammer and it belongs in a 'Busa forum ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Add tires to the mix and it belongs in a Harley forum :o
Did someone say Busa?? ;)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/skjdiwue.jpg)
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I run EVOO in mine.
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Well now that someone finally said that, Olive oil is really a pretty good lubricant and works well in modern machinery overall. The two big problems is that being organic it tends to go rancid and like most natural oils, tends to have a poor viscosity / temperature curve. A better oil that is still natural is the oil of the castor bean, which is one of the very few, if not the only, oil to actually get thicker at extremely high temperatures. It is also one of the few decent lubricating oils that is miscible with alcohol.
Castor oil was the oil of choice in early Rhone or gnome type radial (rotary) engines as they were a contestant- loss type and the pilot of the plane ended up consuming a lot of oil from the exhaust. And yes, the pilots did suffer from the result of ingesting too much castor oil.... maybe Herr von Richthofen might have been called the 'Brown Baron' if not for the catchy color of his plane?
This has got to be a new low even for an oil thread.
Brian
I run EVOO in mine.
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Rotella is JA motorcycle rated per the manufacturers :D
I never said it wasn't. I am not commenting on any particular oil. I am commenting on the "study" done that compares nothing and doesn't take into account that all oils lose viscosity as it is used and breaks down. The engineers who came up with the specs take all that into account. Pick a quality oil and be done with it. The Internet is replete with horror stories or "information" regarding the suitability or unsuitability of oils, filters, you name it and the majority of said information isn't worth the price of the paper it is written on, and since it is on the Internet and not actually written on paper, it must not be worth much.
Buy oil, buy a filter, drain your oil, remove old filter, install new filter, pour in new oil and ride. Repeat as necessary. (This doesn't mean every 1500 miles.) ::) Someone here once said he changed his oil every 1500 miles. If I did that there would be times I would change the oil every other day. On one trip I would have changed the oil after one day of riding.
Don't get me started about the old thread wanting people to send their oil in for analysis. This is simply hypochondria for motorcycles. Seriously people, the manufacturer actually knows what they are doing when the recommend oil, filters and oil change intervals. The engine will last a long time without horrific catastrophic damage due to using ordinary motorcycle oil that meets the manufacturers specifications.
(Is the a stepping off the soapbox emoticon anywhere here?)
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Did someone say Busa?? ;)
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/skjdiwue.jpg)
Finally something worthwhile. In keeping with the fact this is an oil thread, might I suggest a little coconut oil. :chugbeer:
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Well now that someone finally said that, Olive oil is really a pretty good lubricant and works well in modern machinery overall. The two big problems is that being organic it tends to go rancid and like most natural oils, tends to have a poor viscosity / temperature curve. A better oil that is still natural is the oil of the castor bean, which is one of the very few, if not the only, oil to actually get thicker at extremely high temperatures. It is also one of the few decent lubricating oils that is miscible with alcohol.
Castor oil was the oil of choice in early Rhone or gnome type radial (rotary) engines as they were a contestant- loss type and the pilot of the plane ended up consuming a lot of oil from the exhaust. And yes, the pilots did suffer from the result of ingesting too much castor oil.... maybe Herr von Richthofen might have been called the 'Brown Baron' if not for the catchy color of his plane?
This has got to be a new low even for an oil thread.
Brian
Obviously I was kidding. Most oil threads are full of hooey; I thought I would add some. :)
I've used Rotella 15/40 in my last 3 rides without a single issue (100K+ total miles). I always replace the oil and filter every ~3K miles. If you want to spend ~$10 a quart on special "formulated" oil, go right ahead. I will continue to change mine every 3K miles at ~$13 a gallon.
Oh yeah, I also use cheap Napa filters... <gasp>
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I never said it wasn't. I am not commenting on any particular oil. I am commenting on the "study" done that compares nothing and doesn't take into account that all oils lose viscosity as it is used and breaks down. The engineers who came up with the specs take all that into account. Pick a quality oil and be done with it. The Internet is replete with horror stories or "information" regarding the suitability or unsuitability of oils, filters, you name it and the majority of said information isn't worth the price of the paper it is written on, and since it is on the Internet and not actually written on paper, it must not be worth much.
Buy oil, buy a filter, drain your oil, remove old filter, install new filter, pour in new oil and ride. Repeat as necessary. (This doesn't mean every 1500 miles.) ::) Someone here once said he changed his oil every 1500 miles. If I did that there would be times I would change the oil every other day. On one trip I would have changed the oil after one day of riding.
Don't get me started about the old thread wanting people to send their oil in for analysis. This is simply hypochondria for motorcycles. Seriously people, the manufacturer actually knows what they are doing when the recommend oil, filters and oil change intervals. The engine will last a long time without horrific catastrophic damage due to using ordinary motorcycle oil that meets the manufacturers specifications.
(Is the a stepping off the soapbox emoticon anywhere here?)
I like this guy! ;)
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Obviously I was kidding. Most oil threads are full of hooey; I thought I would add some. :)
I've used Rotella 15/40 in my last 3 rides without a single issue (100K+ total miles). I always replace the oil and filter every ~3K miles. If you want to spend ~$10 a quart on special "formulated" oil, go right ahead. I will continue to change mine every 3K miles at ~$13 a gallon.
Oh yeah, I also use cheap Napa filters... <gasp>
Napa Gold? If so, they are just reboxed Wix filters which are good quality filters IMO. If they are good enough for a half a million dollar piece of farm equipment then they should perform fine in my vehicles.
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Napa Gold? If so, they are just reboxed Wix filters which are good quality filters IMO. If they are good enough for a half a million dollar piece of farm equipment then they should perform fine in my vehicles.
Yeah, that's all they carry, Napa Gold. I already knew Napa Gold were Wix automotive filters. Wix makes a damn good filter IMHO.
I had a filter discussion/debate on the old forums. Someone was claiming that Kawasaki made their own filters. Turns out, Kawasaki filters are just re-branded Denso (Japan) filters...
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Obviously I was kidding. Most oil threads are full of hooey; I thought I would add some. :)
I've used Rotella 15/40 in my last 3 rides without a single issue (100K+ total miles). I always replace the oil and filter every ~3K miles. If you want to spend ~$10 a quart on special "formulated" oil, go right ahead. I will continue to change mine every 3K miles at ~$13 a gallon.
Oh yeah, I also use cheap Napa filters... <gasp>
What's the ID on that Napa Gold? Just heard my Super Techs may no longer be available.
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What's the ID on that Napa Gold? Just heard my Super Techs may no longer be available.
Napa Gold 1358
Some others:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1650.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1650.0)
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Napa Gold 1358
Some others:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1650.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1650.0)
1356 is the long (more capacity) version.