Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: BAMA on May 19, 2011, 09:32:31 AM
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OK...my turn to get the low TPS battery front warning. :P Battery must be shot, 'cuz its staying on now all the time despite very warm weather (used to just come on when cold, then go away).
Can you clear the constant warning from the LED display to get the other functions visible again? What's the steps. I didn't see in the manual the way to clear this with a button sequence?? Eventually, I'll have to go fight it out with the dealer to try for a warranty replacement. Thanks
I know we've covered this, but with the forum server crash, many of the threads for a search are toast.
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Press and hold the top button in, then press and release the bottom button, then release the top button. The error will clear and the red LED will lite.
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thanks...will try that sequence.
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You should be able to cycle through the screens now.
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Slight hijack! I remember a thread from the forum before the change over, that dealt with changing the batteries in the tps. Does anyone have the scoop on this?
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tHAT RESET DON'T WORK IN THE DARK ,ON THE HIGHWAY ,WITH HEAVY GLOVES ON :-X
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tHAT RESET DON'T WORK IN THE DARK ,ON THE HIGHWAY ,WITH HEAVY GLOVES ON :-X
I can do it with my eyes closed.......not while moving of course "nah I still could". ;)
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tHAT RESET DON'T WORK IN THE DARK ,ON THE HIGHWAY ,WITH HEAVY GLOVES ON :-X
Or with the CAPS lock on. ;D
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Slight hijack! I remember a thread from the forum before the change over, that dealt with changing the batteries in the tps. Does anyone have the scoop on this?
Murph was going to be offering this service, check his website. http://www.murphskits.com (http://www.murphskits.com)
If you're wanting to do this yourself, here's some info, http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tiresensor (http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tiresensor)
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buy a goldwing? :)
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Or with the CAPS lock on. ;D
must have been the heavy gloves I wear when I tyPE
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Fred Harmon has the pictoral...Who had the step by step battery replacement info?
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tHAT RESET DON'T WORK IN THE DARK ,ON THE HIGHWAY ,WITH HEAVY GLOVES ON :-X
It sure doesn't, especially not while wearing winter gloves!
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Press and hold the top button in, then press and release the bottom button, then release the top button. The error will clear and the red LED will lite.
Added a battery charge lead (Ctek) to my battery yesterday now my TPS does not display, will the above method reset my TPS?
Thanks
Peter
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Added a battery charge lead (Ctek) to my battery yesterday now my TPS does not display, will the above method reset my TPS?
Thanks
Peter
No it will not. But once your wheels are turning at somwhere around 12 mph or so the tps will come back on.
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No it will not. But once your wheels are turning at somwhere around 12 mph or so the tps will come back on.
Thanks for that, it now works.
Peter
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Murph was going to be offering this service, check his website. http://www.murphskits.com (http://www.murphskits.com)
If you're wanting to do this yourself, here's some info, http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tiresensor (http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/tiresensor)
Good pics but some comments with them would be nice. Was there a write up?
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Good pics but some comments with them would be nice. Was there a write up?
There was at one time before the big crash.
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Good pics but some comments with them would be nice. Was there a write up?
I remember most of it as I was planning to change mine. To access the battery, the two halves of the TPS come apart, there is a single screw hidden underneath the stick-on label. Then there are two plastic clasps that can be caerefully opened with a tiny flat blade screwdriver.
A heat sink is suggested to protect the electronics during the de-soldering/soldering operation. A desoldering braid or vacuum will help also. The tabs on the replacement battery are not properly aligned and must be bent to match up with the leads on the circuit board.
I actually took my TPS apart last tire change but decided not to replace the battery at this time as my TPS seems to have healed itself and is working fine. Two weeks ago I was in Arkansas and riding in 43 F degree temperature for three days and never got a low bat warning.
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I think I'm going to do this at the next tire change. The front will be first. Where did the batteries with the tabs come from? Its really sad we lost all of this stuff. Seems like nothing on the interwebs is ever truly lost or can be really erased once it is there. Do we have any guru's who would know if this is true? Google scans and caches everything it seems.
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That info would be good to try to restore. The ECM flashing info too.
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I think I'm going to do this at the next tire change. The front will be first. Where did the batteries with the tabs come from? Its really sad we lost all of this stuff. Seems like nothing on the interwebs is ever truly lost or can be really erased once it is there. Do we have any guru's who would know if this is true? Google scans and caches everything it seems.
CR2032 tabbed battery source:http://www.batteriesandbutter.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CR2032-T4-2&Category_Code=CR2032 (http://www.batteriesandbutter.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CR2032-T4-2&Category_Code=CR2032)
You can google and click the "cached" link and get partial threads. Use advanced search and specify concours.org
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That battery would probably work but it would require short jumpers to reach from the original sensor arms to the battery tabs. The original battery tabs are offset quite a bit from directly horizontal.
Someone mentioned having custom battery tabs welded onto the correct battery for just a couple of dollars at a battery supply company (maybe it was Batteries Plus ?). That would be an ideal solution of course.
Brian
CR2032 tabbed battery source:http://www.batteriesandbutter.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CR2032-T4-2&Category_Code=CR2032 (http://www.batteriesandbutter.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CR2032-T4-2&Category_Code=CR2032)
You can google and click the "cached" link and get partial threads. Use advanced search and specify concours.org
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That battery would probably work but it would require short jumpers to reach from the original sensor arms to the battery tabs. The original battery tabs are offset quite a bit from directly horizontal.
Someone mentioned having custom battery tabs welded onto the correct battery for just a couple of dollars at a battery supply company (maybe it was Batteries Plus ?). That would be an ideal solution of course.
Brian
I cannot remember the user name here who successfully used these batteries and who posted this source. He said that he was able to bend the tabs to reach the sensor arms. When I opened my TPS I saw that there WERE "jumpers" running from each arm to each tab. I intended to ask the poster wether he reused these jumpers.
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In the original link you posted, the tabs on the batteries were facing 180 degrees apart- that is the battery I was commenting about. Using that specific battery, the arms in the original TPS sensor are not long enough to reach the tabs.
In the pictures you posted in the more recent post, the tabs exit the battery more like 90 degrees apart and I am sure those batteries could be made to work with the arms already in the TPS sensors.
Brian
I cannot remember the user name here who successfully used these batteries and who posted this source. He said that he was able to bend the tabs to reach the sensor arms. When I opened my TPS I saw that there WERE "jumpers" running from each arm to each tab. I intended to ask the poster wether he reused these jumpers.
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In the original link you posted, the tabs on the batteries were facing 180 degrees apart- that is the battery I was commenting about. Using that specific battery, the arms in the original TPS sensor are not long enough to reach the tabs.
In the pictures you posted in the more recent post, the tabs exit the battery more like 90 degrees apart and I am sure those batteries could be made to work with the arms already in the TPS sensors.
Brian
Sorry to mislead, I was in too big a hurry when posted. I failed to explain that the picture you are referring to shows my attempt to bend one tab in into a reachable position. The actual unmodified battery has two tabs 180 degrees apart. I still think a short piece of wire might be necessary to reach, or perhaps a better bending job than I did,
More pics should expalin better than my words, original and other side of modified battery:
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Gotcha- that was like a 'slight of camera'. :D It looks like it would work although you might have to shorten the original tab as it sticks out pretty far.
It probably won't make any difference but the bend in the tab might be subject to fracture due to long exposure to vibration. Really I don't think that would happen though as the battery is pretty well captured and really won't allow the tabs to vibrate anyway.
Brian
Sorry to mislead, I was in too big a hurry when posted. I failed to explain that the picture you are referring to shows my attempt to bend one tab in into a reachable position. The actual unmodified battery has two tabs 180 degrees apart. I still think a short piece of wire might be necessary to reach, or perhaps a better bending job than I did,
More pics should expalin better than my words, original and other side of modified battery:
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This would be a good service for someone to provide.......
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I thought that Murph was working on that?
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Has anyone used Murph for this? Has Murph made it over from the old board?
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He did post prices for the service on the old forum so I assume he is still doing the battery replacement.
Brian
I thought that Murph was working on that?
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This battery may also fit. I am not sure if the tabs are too close together.
Panasonic CR-2032/F4N
I found a source here: http://www.batterybob.com/product.asp?intProdID=607125 (http://www.batterybob.com/product.asp?intProdID=607125)
-Dennis
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It may have been the thread I posted a couple of months ago about replacing the TPS batteries.
This is a really easy project, so don’t be intimidated; some attention to detail and basic soldering know-how are all you need.
Here’s the battery info from my order:
Ordered: 2 Shipped: 2 CR2032-T4-2 Sanyo CR2032 3 Volt Lithium Coin Battery W/2 Hole Mounting # CR2032-T4-2 $2.50
Purchased from: BatteriesAndButter.Com Tel: (718) 491-2702 Fax: (718) 491-2707
Seem to recall that the two of them cost ~$15.00 to my door and most of that was shipping.
These batteries work just fine, but you do have to slightly fold the tabs to get them to fit.
First suggest you mark each TPS as “front” or “rear” so you know where to re-install them.
As Lather said, peel back the label on the back of the unit and use a tiny torx drive to remove the back. Be careful, as the plastic is easy to break. You can coax it off with a small flat-bladed screwdriver, just don’t force it.
Once the back is off, the battery and guts of the sensor will pull free from the plastic housing. Suggest you use a heat sink to keep from over-heating the electronics; somebody found a $2.99 Radio Shack heat sink that would work fine.
I used de-soldering braid, and someone else liked a solder sucker, but either will work to wick up the old solder. Once the soldered joints are free, the battery will fall off. You should note the polarity of the old battery’s connections, “+” or “-“ and place the new battery in likewise.
Fold the tabs to meet the TPS’ connections, re-solder, put the guts back in the case, snap the top back on the sensor, replace the torx, smooth the label back on and it’s finished.
The sensors have a rounded end and a squared-off end. Kawasaki does not spec which direction relative to the wheels’ rotation to place these, but Fred found that the ‘Wings say to place the square end toward the wheels’ travel. I didn’t pay attention to how mine were installed, but replaced them square side toward the breeze.
My TPS has worked perfectly for ~3000 since I replaced them. It was much easier for me to go this route than to screw around with a dealer.
There was early speculation that you had to jumper the units to keep them hot while the battery was removed, or that the tires had to be inflated to wake up the sensors. I did neither and mine are perfect.
Hope this helps!
Mike
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Thanks! :goodpost: