Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: MrPepsi on January 24, 2012, 06:29:03 PM
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This started with this tread... http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2763.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2763.0)
This is the painted cover that you must remove from the right side, before you can access the cover for the battery.
There is one bolt. Last time I removed it, it did not want to go back on easy. Well now it wouldn't come off at all. The alllen stripped in the bolt. Ideas? I tried cutting a groove to fit a large flat head screw driver, but the bolt is too soft to use a screw driver in. If I go to Kragen, what am I looking for to drilll into it?
(http://www.mrpepsi.com/razzi/coverbolt/84.jpg)
(http://www.mrpepsi.com/razzi/coverbolt/86.jpg)
(http://www.mrpepsi.com/razzi/coverbolt/88.jpg)
I could really use some advice, I'd like to get it back on the road tomorrow.
I tried heat, I tried hitting it with a hammer.
It moved, but not much. Now I can't grip it with anything.
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An "Easy Out" would be your best bet IMO. You should be able to find one at the local Lowes or Home Depot for around $10.
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I saw on another thread recently somebody said to strategically weld a nut to it, I don't have a welder in my garage but maybe you do? :-\
Good luck MP, that sucks bro... :(
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I'd prefer to use a whole lot of banned words right now, so read that frustration into this post.
I cannot for the life of me get this bolt to come out.
I have purchased an extractor, with no luck. Just spins.
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I'd prefer to use a whole lot of banned words right now, so read that frustration into this post.
I cannot for the life of me get this bolt to come out.
I have purchased an extractor, with no luck. Just spins.
The extractor or the bolt just spins? If the extractor, then you need to drill deeper. Be sure to tap the extractor into the hole with a hammer a bit to make sure it gets a good bite.
If the material is that soft you should be able to drill the head off and at least get into the panel.
May sound counter-intuitive but I've had pretty good luck removing stuck fasteners by tightening them a bit first. Of course, this is before it is stripped. :(
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You do not want to weld anything to that bolt, or you will melt the fairing. I do not know if this helps, but I ran into a similar situation on my Suzuki 1250 Bandit. One of the clutch cover Allen button head bolts stripped and I ended up drilling it out by drilling away the entire head of the bolt. It was somewhat of a chore, but it worked.
After you drill away the head, you can remove the fairing and then remove the rest of the bolt with a pair of pliers.
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Well at least its a start.
I can get to my battery now.
(http://www.mrpepsi.com/razzi/coverbolt/89.jpg)
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That bolt is tricky. It doesn't go in straight. It goes in at angle, that's why every one strips it out.
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That bolt is tricky. It doesn't go in straight. It goes in at angle, that's why every one strips it out.
Now you tell me
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You and Lather should get together...but not on my bike. ;)
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Not sure if there is a portable EDM electron discharge machine, that uses carbon electrodes and a fluid bath to etch metal.
Welding would likely damage the cover.
Perhaps grind the blot head off and then remove the cover. You may have the room to grab the bolt shaft with vice grips or similar. Or perhaps use penetrating old and or a torch to heat the thread joint.
On my 2008 I found all similar bolts would start to strip out ... I used a snap on torque wrench and good hex drive sockets so no over torque.
As it started to round the hex head slots, and before they got as bad as you had...
I bought new oem bolts and they seem to be made of lighter metal than I would expect from harden steel high grade bolts. The oem new bolts also had some dark red paste on the threads.
Best luck
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You and Lather should get together...but not on my bike. ;)
Yep, if you uptight guys were more like me you'd never have stripped bolts.
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Once you get the rest of the bolt out, you're going to have to install a thread repair (Heli-Coil) so you can use the same OEM bolt again. If you remove the plastic access cover you should be able to do the weld-a-nut procedure to remove the rest of the bolt. If not, you have to drill out the the remainder and then heli-coil it.
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The OP's reply with photo at #6 is indication no further suggestions required.
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The OP's reply with photo at #6 is indication no further suggestions required.
No, that just means he got it out. :deadhorse:
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No, that just means he got it out. :deadhorse:
:rotflmao:
Wouldn't be so bad if there hadnt been an almost identical thread like 3 days ago.
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Such is life on ZGGTR.
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:rotflmao:
Wouldn't be so bad if there hadnt been an almost identical thread like 3 days ago.
Yeah sorry about, but it was a different bolt, made of different matierials.
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The OP's reply with photo at #6 is indication no further suggestions required.
He didn't get the bolt out, he twisted the head of it off. Bolt is still in the frame......
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He didn't get the bolt out, he twisted the head of it off. Bolt is still in the frame......
You may be right but I was responding to the post suggesting grinding the head off.
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He didn't get the bolt out, he twisted the head of it off. Bolt is still in the frame......
Sadly, this.
I tried vice grips, and it twisted what's left smooth. Later I will buy a smaller extractor and I will try again. For now the door stays off. Surprisingly high amount of heat coming out of that opening. I can feel it through my riding pants.
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Sadly, this.
I tried vice grips, and it twisted what's left smooth. Later I will buy a smaller extractor and I will try again. For now the door stays off. Surprisingly high amount of heat coming out of that opening. I can feel it through my riding pants.
Pepsi - try to borrow a welder from a friend and try welding a nut of the approximately the same size to what is left of the bolt in the frame. Place the nut over the broken bolt and carefully fill the hole of the nut with weld -- this will weld the nut to what is left of the bolt and you should be able to just use a wrench to remove the bolt. The heat of the welding will loosen the bolt even if it is cross-threaded. If you get it too hot, it may damage the paint on the frame, but it is behind the plastic cover and you wouldn't see it anyway. You could touch it up with black paint if needed. As I said earlier, your only other option is to completely drill out the bolt and heli-coil the hole (which will be pretty buggered up)
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OK, here is a method I used once succesfully to drill out a sheared subframe mounting bolt on a different machine. There was about 3/16 of the sheared bolt protruding from the aluminum main frame. I clamped two quarter inch alum plates together and drilled a 1/16 inch central hole and three locating holes. Unclamped and then drilled one of the central holes to the size of the bolt shaft. I used the locating holes to clamp the two plates together again. This made a jig for drilling out the bolt that centered the drill bit by placing the large hole side over it. I made a 1/16 pilot hole and went progressively higher until just the threads were left and I could good pick them out and then clean up with a tap. If I had screwed up I would have just gone to the next larger bolt size but I did not.
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OK, here is a method I used once succesfully to drill out a sheared subframe mounting bolt on a different machine. There was about 3/16 of the sheared bolt protruding from the aluminum main frame. I clamped two quarter inch alum plates together and drilled a 1/16 inch central hole and three locating holes. Unclamped and then drilled one of the central holes to the size of the bolt shaft. I used the locating holes to clamp the two plates together again. This made a jig for drilling out the bolt that centered the drill bit by placing the large hole side over it. I made a 1/16 pilot hole and went progressively higher until just the threads were left and I could good pick them out and then clean up with a tap. If I had screwed up I would have just gone to the next larger bolt size but I did not.
That also is a pretty good way to get the broken bolt out. The only thing I might question is using a bigger bolt, that is a special "shouldered" socket bolt and it would be hard to match it up. I would just heli-coil if I messed up drilling it.
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Sadly I may need to gring it off to get a good center to drill through.
I can see this side cover being held on C-10 style with a zip tie some day.
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That also is a pretty good way to get the broken bolt out. The only thing I might question is using a bigger bolt, that is a special "shouldered" socket bolt and it would be hard to match it up. I would just heli-coil if I messed up drilling it.
I was thinking the same thing, that particular bolt is unusual. The welding method is a better idea if you have access to a welder. I would take it to a shop. I have had good results at welding shops getting bike parts repaired, they have only charged about $20.00
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I was thinking the same thing, that particular bolt is unusual. The welding method is a better idea if you have access to a welder. I would take it to a shop. I have had good results at welding shops getting bike parts repaired, they have only charged about $20.00
+1
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I went thru the same issue when I was pulling the battery for winter storage. Three out of the 4 bolts I had to remove stripped out. I initially tried a bolt extractor with no luck. Then I tried drilling into the bolt with a bit that was smaller than the shank of the bolt and carfully drilled in most of the length of the bolt. I tried the bolt extractor repeatedly during this process until the bolt lost enough of it's holding power to come out. I ordered replacement bolts which are not yet installed and I would really like to know that when I put them in I wouldn't have the same problem again.
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I went thru the same issue when I was pulling the battery for winter storage. Three out of the 4 bolts I had to remove stripped out. I initially tried a bolt extractor with no luck. Then I tried drilling into the bolt with a bit that was smaller than the shank of the bolt and carfully drilled in most of the length of the bolt. I tried the bolt extractor repeatedly during this process until the bolt lost enough of it's holding power to come out. I ordered replacement bolts which are not yet installed and I would really like to know that when I put them in I wouldn't have the same problem again.
I had trouble with the cover bolt. It looked to me like it was not properly tapped, as well as being non perpendiclular as Jayke mentioned. I bought the appropriate tap and cleaned up the threads and have not had any more trouble.
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Forget welding just drill and tap it.
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This started with this tread... http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2763.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2763.0)
This is the painted cover that you must remove from the right side, before you can access the cover for the battery.
There is one bolt. Last time I removed it, it did not want to go back on easy. Well now it wouldn't come off at all. The alllen stripped in the bolt. Ideas? I tried cutting a groove to fit a large flat head screw driver, but the bolt is too soft to use a screw driver in. If I go to Kragen, what am I looking for to drilll into it?
I could really use some advice, I'd like to get it back on the road tomorrow.
I tried heat, I tried hitting it with a hammer.
It moved, but not much. Now I can't grip it with anything.
"Warning, Will Robinson, Warning, Warning!!!"
A bad ending is often the results of a bad beginning. :'(
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Under warranty?
Let them make good.
They screwed up my battery install and apparently those bolts(?) are made of fudge, cheese or butter.
Concerns me as the rest of the fittings.
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Forget welding just drill and tap it.
+1 Grind it flat, center punch, drill it out, tap.
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I think that was 'Danger Will Robinson, Danger.'
The guy who did the voice for the robot just died. I don't know if the guy who flailed the hooks around is alive or not....
Brian
"Warning, Will Robinson, Warning, Warning!!!"
A bad ending is often the results of a bad beginning. :'(
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"Warning, Will Robinson, Warning, Warning!!!"
A bad ending is often the results of a bad beginning. :'(
No doubt my friend. This all started because I threaded that bolt in straight, instead of at an angle which it apparently is supposed to be.
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You know, trying to find that OEM bolt on the Microfiche is turning out to be very difficult. I can't even find the cover on any of the pages.
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Forget welding just drill and tap it.
I am going to try this.
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You know, trying to find that OEM bolt on the Microfiche is turning out to be very difficult. I can't even find the cover on any of the pages.
http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/pages/OemParts#/Kawasaki/ZG1400A8F_Concours_14_ABS_(2008)/FRAME_FITTINGS/ZG1400A8F-2008/I14I1485F2131 (http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/pages/OemParts#/Kawasaki/ZG1400A8F_Concours_14_ABS_(2008)/FRAME_FITTINGS/ZG1400A8F-2008/I14I1485F2131)
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Looks like 92153D and 92200
Thanks!
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ORDERED. With extras because its me.
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Whatcha gonna work on next?
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Looks like 92153D and 92200
Thanks!
I see 92200 says washer. I don't have a washer on mine. Is it one of the white plastic washers or steel?
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I see 92200 says washer. I don't have a washer on mine. Is it one of the white plastic washers or steel?
Very thin white washer.
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Whatcha gonna work on next?
:rotflmao:
He has that new battery coming from Murph's to install... :o
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I saw on another thread recently somebody said to strategically weld a nut to it, I don't have a welder in my garage but maybe you do? :-\
Good luck MP, that sucks bro... :(
I would not try to weld, its too close to the plastic.
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You guys are brutal.
At least I'm not a CDA member, oh crap.
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You guys are brutal.
At least I'm not a CDA member, oh crap.
Sorry Brent, you know it's all in good fun. We've all been there, well, maybe not exactly THERE but you know what I mean. :)
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No worries, I can do some stuff, just don't have enough patients to do it flawlessly sometimes.
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:rotflmao:
He has that new battery coming from Murph's to install... :o
hehehe, he gets to take the cover off again.
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I think that was 'Danger Will Robinson, Danger.'
The guy who did the voice for the robot just died. I don't know if the guy who flailed the hooks around is alive or not....
Brian
Oh man... :'(
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hehehe, he gets to take the cover off again.
Silly guy, the bolt is broken, I can't even get the cover on!
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:chugbeer:
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:rotflmao:
He has that new battery coming from Murph's to install... :o
:deadhorse: :rotflmao:
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Silly guy, the bolt is broken, I can't even get the cover on!
Here ya go Brent
(http://blog.beaumontenterprise.com/bayou/files/2011/01/DuctTape-300x216.jpg)
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Yeah but I think the stud is stuck in the battery box cover, not the frame itself. It is still a steel stud stuck in an aluminum plate but at least the plate is removable and so can be repaired more easily and with less risk (not hacking into the frame itself). Worst case scenario is he would have to buy a new battery box cover, and they might even be available used these days.
Brian
He didn't get the bolt out, he twisted the head of it off. Bolt is still in the frame......
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True but remember- nothing screams bad craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape....
Brian
Here ya go Brent
(http://blog.beaumontenterprise.com/bayou/files/2011/01/DuctTape-300x216.jpg)
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True but remember- nothing screams bad craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape....
Brian
Are you related to Steve Smith (The Red Green Show), Brian?
(http://www.wdsctv.org/images/downloads/witandwisdomtourposter_400.jpg)
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I went thru the same issue when I was pulling the battery for winter storage. Three out of the 4 bolts I had to remove stripped out. I initially tried a bolt extractor with no luck. Then I tried drilling into the bolt with a bit that was smaller than the shank of the bolt and carfully drilled in most of the length of the bolt. I tried the bolt extractor repeatedly during this process until the bolt lost enough of it's holding power to come out. I ordered replacement bolts which are not yet installed and I would really like to know that when I put them in I wouldn't have the same problem again.
I put anti-seize on those bolts so they don't get stripped out the next time I remove them
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I put anti-seize on those bolts so they don't get stripped out the next time I remove them
I bugger up one bolt and you guys tease to no end.
This guy buggers FOUR bolts and he gets advice. ;D
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I bugger up one bolt and you guys tease to no end.
This guy buggers FOUR bolts and he gets advice. ;D
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/sakdjqweu7e283.jpg)
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I bugger up one bolt and you guys tease to no end.
This guy buggers FOUR bolts and he gets advice. ;D
You want some advice Brent?
Ok, don't do that again and put some Captain Morgan in with that Pepsi. :chugbeer:
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That, quite possibly could be what caused the bolt issue. ;)
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I bugger up one bolt and you guys tease to no end.
This guy buggers FOUR bolts and he gets advice. ;D
Does seem strange doesn't it?
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I bugger up one bolt and you guys tease to no end.
This guy buggers FOUR bolts and he gets advice. ;D
He has a cute Polar Bear and appears to be in AK. You have a bike named Razzi and live in CA,, what were ya expecting, a snuggy? ;)
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:rotflmao:
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You guys are brutal.
At least I'm not a CDA member, oh crap.
Mr. pepsi, I hope you didn't Jinx yourself..........
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Never had an issue getting out any of my bolts, and a good quality bit makes all the difference. Put some anti-seize on the bolts after removal, shouldn't have any more issues........and don't over-tighten. ::)
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You guys just might be proud of me. I ordered new bolts and washers for my stripped bolt. Then I went to work. Drilling, drilling, drilling, finally broke through the back side. After busting drill bit after drill bit. No worries, there's nothing behind this bolt. Finally got my remover locked in good, and used vice grips.
(http://www.mrpepsi.com/razzi/coverbolt/03.jpg)
Then went to home depot and matched up the threads, 6mm by the way with a nice 3" bolt with the same pitch. Ran it through a few times to get the threads good. Then bought some anti seize and set my bolt right. Got the cover back on. Granted when I was pissed about it stripping earlier in this thread I had some issues with the drill falling off and causing some scratches that I will fix up when I find my touch up paint, but the cover is back on.
yay.
(http://www.mrpepsi.com/razzi/coverbolt/04.jpg)
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Nicely done Brent!! 5 pages, 1 stripped bolt, I'd say you was approaching Haraldo territory ;)
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Brent
Congratz. I still feel the OEM bolts / screws are low quality given the results I have found with allen head sockets and use of a torque wrench.
Back from Florida and in the bay area for a few weeks and did a short ride on my 2008.
Only had to add 6 psi in the tires and use the battery tender and she fired up .... and rode great after 6+ months garage storage. (sad I am leaving again in a few weeks)
Best Off All
Brent