Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: buzz on January 10, 2012, 06:22:56 PM
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Does any one have insight on the process on filling the handles bars? I read somewhere that filling the handle bars with caulking and BB's could just about eliminate all vibration. Looking for info from someone thats done or knows about this mod.
Thanks,
Buzz
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I used #9 bird shot. Remove bar end weight, remove handle bar and place it so the bolt hole which holds the bar end weight is up, and use a small funnel to fill the bar. Each side held somewhere around 10 oz. of shot. It wasn't necessary (at least for me) to caulk the end after putting the shot inside since the bar was upright and I put the end weight/allen bolt back in while it was in this position. I used #9 shot since it's lots smaller than BB and would take up more of the interior volume of the bar. It made a noticeable improvement.
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I have not done this to the C-10, but have done this with other bikes with great results. I usually put in the bird shot, pack in some rubber pieces from old grips, a little more bird shot, then install the bar ends.
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I used kitty litter...
Anyways, I popped off the caps on the inside ends of the bars, used a paper 'funnel' to guide the fill in a bit at a time, tamped it in with a suitably long bolt, and then added more fill, tamped again, etc. until the bar was pretty much full. At this point, I caulked inside the bar (to hold the kitty litter in place), replaced the cap and I was done. No removal of the handlebar was necessary for this.
I'm sure you could use a similar procedure for shot, I just didn't have any on hand.
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The smaller the LEAD shot and the more tightly packed the better the results would/will be.... If the shot is not packed solid it too can rattle and perhaps make matters worse. If anyone knows someone who melts down lead for casting their own bullets you could easily have your bars poured solid with molten lead this would be the best you could ask for.
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I tried sand. I dont think it worked well though. May have to try lead, guessing the heavier the better?
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I tried sand. I dont think it worked well though. May have to try lead, guessing the heavier the better?
Yes; the heavier the better....
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I think I posted pics here a couple months ago, but I have a fully rubber isolated handlebar mount on Shoodaben. Wow, that's sweet! I am trying to do production on it, but so far the fellow who is supposed to do the manufacturing has had excuses, not parts. I'm working on it... Steve
Here's another pic
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Thanks for all of the suggestions, I've got options to pick from now.
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I put shot in years ago but removed it when I was getting lead dust leaking out. :o
Plug the end w/silicone and it might stop that.
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One more suggestion that worked very well for me. I removed the plastic caps from the inside of the handle bars and pressed in a chunk of grounding rod. The rod is slightly oversized so measure carefully. Once it is pressed in it could prove interesting to remove. I wish I had kept my measurements; overall the ground rod adds close to 1/2lb to each bar.
I would like to drive the rods out this winter and fill them with molten lead. Cold rolled steel (ground rod) has a specific gravity of 7.83 while lead is 11.35
A person would end up with some serious bar weight with them filled with lead.
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The bike is in the garage right now for some home servicing, valve adj, brake pads, 4" stock spring cuoff mod.
Thought I would fill the bars with something since I will have them off for a couple of days.
Snarf, did you get my paypal for a set of your block off plates?
Buzz
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One more suggestion that worked very well for me. I removed the plastic caps from the inside of the handle bars and pressed in a chunk of grounding rod. The rod is slightly oversized so measure carefully. Once it is pressed in it could prove interesting to remove. I wish I had kept my measurements; overall the ground rod adds close to 1/2lb to each bar.
I would like to drive the rods out this winter and fill them with molten lead. Cold rolled steel (ground rod) has a specific gravity of 7.83 while lead is 11.35
A person would end up with some serious bar weight with them filled with lead.
Do you melt lead? :stirpot: ;D
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I haven't tried this, but in another application with the same goal in mind, they used green sand not just sand. Green sand is just really fine sand (silica sand - the stuff you use for concrete) mixed with a percentage of sifted molding clay and enough oil to make it hold its shape. Food for thought for the next experimenter. I have atv bars that I welded nuts on the end of and installed the factory bar end weights. With gel grips covered eith grip puppies, I have no perceptible vibration in the bars.
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I think I posted pics here a couple months ago, but I have a fully rubber isolated handlebar mount on Shoodaben. Wow, that's sweet! I am trying to do production on it, but so far the fellow who is supposed to do the manufacturing has had excuses, not parts. I'm working on it... Steve
Here's another pic
Hey Steve,
I'm really intrestered in this mod of yours. I have a good friend on the ZRX board that makes clamps for the ZRX. He makes all kinds of products for the Rex. If you want to contact him about this project let me know. :thumbs:
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Just to throw a little more out there. Several years back had Helibars on and came up with something that would allow me to slip into bars thru the threaded bar end weight holes and use what I had on hand. Cut pieces of 1/4" cattle panel material into lengths needed. Think about 3 maybe 4 per side. Then to remedy a rattle concern I caulk gunned silicone until I thought was full. Only issue was the hole in bar behind the blinker control. That silicone came thru and fouled up my blinkers until it dried and quit oozing. Used a gel grip and puppies on top. Very comfortable
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what is cattle panel material?
Never heard of it.
Buzz
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Cattle panels are constructed of 1/4" steel rod that's galvanized. Could do same with anything 1/4" that would fit in end of handlebar.
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just a thought but would filling the bars either with silicone only or the expanding foam make much impact do you think?
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just a thought but would filling the bars either with silicone only or the expanding foam make much impact do you think?
None except for making a nasty mess.... You need to add real substantial weight and make the hollow bar act as a solid rod to reduce the tendency of having the hollow tube start to resonate or ring.
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Let's see -- I have Murph's grip and and bar risers. Steve's 2MM, Exhaust cam gear and 7th gear upgrade. No vibes 'til about 90mph. ;D ;D Just a couple bucks to go first class.
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Well, I dont know how cost effective it is, or how much would be needed for the bars, but I had some heavy solder I used some years back to fill a steel pipe for use as a weight in the stock of my skeet gun for reduced felt recoil.
Worked wonders there, and Id assume it would work here too.
I just melted a bit at a time with a small torch until I had a solid base, then I let er rip. Filled a 6" pipe with it, full. Have to let it cool every few minutes, because if you dont, you will have a BIG mess of molten solder....trust me on that...unless you have a solid end.
Cant get any better than that, as the final product should have no movement in the bar at all, which is what you are after, as any movement will negate the effect you are after.
Of course I dont remember where I got that solder, and it was very thick, but Id guess any plumbing supply would have it, maybe even Lowes/Home Depot/Menards...
I never did anything to mine. It had the Throttlemeister on it already, which while I dont care for the way it engages, the added weight is nice.
Ive been thinking of going to regular bars, so Im really interested in SISFs mount!