Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: roadie on December 04, 2011, 11:44:24 AM
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Just started my maintenance yesterday. So far so well. A little drama getting the bike on my Harbor Freight Bike lift...Damn thing scooted forward as I tried to drive up on it. I'll have to figure out some better rigging for next time.
I plan on using this to document my work, and will keep pics here:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22)
I've got a snake camera that takes video, so if anyone wants any video of the guts the deeper I go, lemme know. Not everyday we get a Connie open elbow deep, so anything specific you guys wanna see, just lemme know.
To do (not in specific order):
1. valve check (build gap/shim map)
2. throttle body sync
3. change spark plugs
4. Oil change
5. final drive oil change
6. check/clean air filter
7. cooling system checks: change coolant
8. change brake/clutch fluid, install bleeders (on order), galfer clutch/brake lines (lines should arrive 16 Dec)
9. GSG Frame sliders (the correct way this time :-) (bolt should arrive 16 Dec)
10. clean rust off gas tank, lil spots here there...hit it with some primer
11. brake pads front, thoroughly clean calipers
12. check brakes rear (think they are still good)
13. Wheels and tires inspection: replace rear tire? Not needed.
14. lubricate levers, cables, kickstand, drive shaft
15. clean forks
16. rewire or get rid of extra cables I ran under gas tank for farkles...don't see me needing them anytime soon.
17. cable management of farkle wiring
18. fuel system checks
19. entire brake system check
20. Air suction system check
21. Clutch and Drive Train inspect
22. suspension checks
23. electrical system checks
24. check bolts, nuts and fasteners (wouldn't you know I found my vibration problem on the ride right side: fairing stay bolt that was SUPPOSED to be connected to air dam was loose :-)
25. ORder new subframe assembly bolts now, as manual says to replace everytime you yank them out...I didn't replace last time, so think I better this time. any comments on this one? done.
3 Dec:
Oil changed/new filter: 10W-40 Synthetic (NoTE: next time do AFTER valve adjust).
Final Drive Oil changed: damn plug was kinda tight again, even though I didn't hunker down on it last time.
Removed all plastic
4 Dec (morning session):
Removed subframe brackets, air dam, fairing stays, stick coils, cam position sensor, cam shaft position sensor cover, various other brackets, head cover.
4 Dec (evening session): Next Session, measured clearance on exhaust and intake. Only one valve was at optimum measurement. cylinder 1 left side intake. I'll draw up a map and post in pics. Cams are out, and ready to start removing and measuring all shims and making a shim map.
5 Dec (morning session): Pulled cylinder four shims and marked so I don't mix up. Will measure today and build DRAFT map to use for entire shim map. Will measure buckets tonight.
6-7 Dec: Conducted all measurements. Used Egg cartons to keep buckets and shims in order. Built spreadsheet shim map to track values: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl). Believe I'm ready to get some shims.
9 Dec: New dealer did NOT have the right size shims for me. So I ordered them. Should be here 14 Dec.
17 Dec: finally finished installing new shims, torques of cam holders/covers, and put header back on. after i got the holders back on i made sure to rotate engine a couple full revolutions to make sure i didn't hear any sounds indicative of the cam being installed wrong. What should have probably been a two hour drill took me around four, as I had to open back up and exchange one more shim after everything was said and done. Remember on cylinder 4 intake? I didn't have an accurate measurement, so i guessed in my calculations, and i managed to get it in the zone with a 2.25 shim, but it is still at the bottom of the acceptable range. I don't have anymore smaller shims to satisfy a mid range gap, so let it go.
18 Dec: TOday I finished buttoning up the engine, put the cam position sensor cover back on. Had to go buy some high temp sealant before i closed it up. Also reinstalled stick coils, and associated harness. Fired her up and looked for leaks...all good. Boy I tell you once she turned on and sounded nice..I had to do a high five with my self. I then proceeded to do the throttle body sync and whoop whoop, they were still all spot-on and balanced. I bled the front brakes, installed new brake pads (the original set got 14,800 miles, and the wear markers were gone. I also noticed what appeared to be chunks missing from the edges on a couple of the pads. I cleaned the calipers with brake cleaner. As i was cleaning the right side (I had both calipers unmounted), the left side cylinder seemed to almost "pop" out and started leaking brake fluid...is that normal? I pushed it back in cleaned all up, installed the pads and then went on ahead and bled the front brakes. Oh yeah, I'm quite the noob. I didn't notice the calipers and master cylinders already had what appeared to be speed bleeder valves. What is the difference between these OEM valves and the one's Murph sells? If nothing, I just wasted money buying a set. My bike has been down so long, I am opting not to install the galfer hoses yet. Save for another day. I also drained the coolant and put new coolant (Honda HP). Managed to get much of the left side fairing stays back in place.
24 Dec: So bled the front, rear brakes, and clutch. Also installed the speed bleeders and the front galfer lines. I'm a little confused though...how do these speed bleeders work?? How to make them bleed? Don't need to bleed anything right now (already empty). Is there a special attachment that pushes the check valve down?
25 Dec: Merry Christmas! Today I installed the rear Galfer break line, refilled rear brake fluid, and bled air out of system . Its nice and tight now when engaging the rear break, so confident I got all air out. I also refilled the clutch with brake fluid. Bleeding it was a drawn out system, but got it pretty tight also. I then installed new oil and dust seals in my front calipers. Now I am quite confident I didn't lose it, but is it remotely possible my right caliper would have stayed airtight, even if for a while, missing an O-ring? It would appear one half of one of the calipers was missing the O-ring that lays against the other on the opposite caliper half, creating the channel through which the brake fluid flows. So damnit, need another part. Just when I thought I was gonna get it done today. :-(
5 Jan: Didn't post earlier, but Since December, I installed front fork sliders, frame sliders, swing-arm protector, o-ring seal in left caliper, Tech Spec Tank Protectors, and asundry of smaller 15K checks. Still having problem with air in front brakes, work well enough but still a bubble in there somewhere. Since I have to get my VA state inspection done, I dropped off at the shop for them to do, and bleed my front lines for me. Learned enough in this excursion...hit it again (but hell no on bleeding) in 7,500 miles.
Thanks for reading.
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Add lube drive shaft. Those tires look like there is a lot of tread left. But I can only see the edges. Cupped so soon? PR 2's?
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Add lube drive shaft. Those tires look like there is a lot of tread left. But I can only see the edges. Cupped so soon? PR 2's?
Will do thx. See my thread titled "understanding tire wear". I found weird too. Some folks discussing there. Would love your opinion. More pics, maybe a video?
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This is a little late but you will want to blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air before removing either the spark plugs or the valve cover. There is a fair amount of debris in those wells and you won't want it dropping into the cylinders or flying around all over the cams, followers and the rest of the precision parts normally protected by the valve cover.
I would suggest slipping the valve cover back on, leaving the spark plugs in the holes (or putting them back in if already out) and using plenty of compressed air to blow out those wells. Then blow off the top of the valve cover and wipe it down before removing it. You don't have to put all the bolts back in, one on each side of the engine will do just to hold it in place.
Brian
<snip>
4 Dec:
Removed subframe brackets, air dam, fairing stays, stick coils, cam position sensor, cam shaft position sensor cover, various other brackets, head cover.[/list]
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This is a little late but you will want to blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air before removing either the spark plugs or the valve cover. There is a fair amount of debris in those wells and you won't want it dropping into the cylinders or flying around all over the cams, followers and the rest of the precision parts normally protected by the valve cover.
I would suggest slipping the valve cover back on, leaving the spark plugs in the holes (or putting them back in if already out) and using plenty of compressed air to blow out those wells. Then blow off the top of the valve cover and wipe it down before removing it. You don't have to put all the bolts back in, one on each side of the engine will do just to hold it in place.
Brian
THx B,
I wiped very very good, and inspected again when I took it out. blew out, and also checked the sparkplug wells with my snake cam and they were clean as a whistle.[/list]
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New Photos posted, and below my initial map of existing clearances. I hope this is beneficial to those contemplating doing the 15K for the first time. I'm new to this also, but making sure to go slow. So far only one valve was in spec, so will get alot of practice this time around.
I won't riddle this thread with pics, but will post this one pic, the rest will keep being uploaded to my gallery at:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22)
(http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=154)
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Just a thought here, but you might want to use some rust reformer of one brand or another for the tank seam rust spots. Should keep it at bay much longer than primer. I did it a 1.5 years ago and haven't had it rise up yet.
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Just a thought here, but you might want to use some rust reformer of one brand or another for the tank seam rust spots. Should keep it at bay much longer than primer. I did it a 1.5 years ago and haven't had it rise up yet.
good idea...I have been looking at some heavy duty stuff for my F250...she's got tons of undercarriage rust. SOmeone recommended some stuff called bullet proof.
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I don't know how heavy duty this stuff is, but for the tank I used this. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=40 (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=40)
Years ago in Florida, I used a product called ospho or something like that for a home built utility bed. It came in a larger container and we used a painting gun to apply it. It leaves a pretty rough texture though. Kind of like a new AR barrel.
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What you have there is probably OK but you cannot tell exactly how far you have to move that one valve that reads under 0.004". I would suggest getting a solid reading by finding a feeler gauge that will go into the gap and calling that one the low limit.
You can also go to one- half thousandth sizes with feeler gauges if you get a set that includes a 0.0015" feeler. Combine the 0.0015 feeler with other feelers as needed to test for all gaps that are likely to occur. For example, you can check the 'under 0.004" ' gap with a 0.0015 + 0.002 feelers which will make a 0.0035" feeler set. Just wipe both feelers with your fingers (they will be oily which is good) and turn the two feelers so one in on top of the other; the oil will hold them together and allow you to use the pair as a single feeler gauge.
Brian
New Photos posted, and below my initial map of existing clearances. I hope this is beneficial to those contemplating doing the 15K for the first time. I'm new to this also, but making sure to go slow. So far only one valve was in spec, so will get alot of practice this time around.
I won't riddle this thread with pics, but will post this one pic, the rest will keep being uploaded to my gallery at:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=22)
(http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=154)
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Brian, I thought I woul have to get them to optimum levels (aside from the one which is below .004. Do I not need to get shims in the range of .001-.002 bigger than what is in there now? I had planned on pulling each one so I could at least have an accurate inventory of what shim sizes I have for each valve.
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I am not sure I am follow you here Will but first of all, you need to know the gap that is there. Less than XXX isn't really a measurement- it could be 0.0035 (likely) or 0.0025. Without a starting gap, you cannot change the shim(s) out for a desired gap.
Besides that, if the lash (gap) is too small, you do not want bigger shims, you want to use smaller shims to increase the gap.
Yep, if you pull the cams, it is a good idea to record each shim size as found in the engine. It will establish a base map for this time or even future lash checks if you do not change some shims this time. Next time, if you know what size shims are in each position, you can go about getting new shims as soon as you measure the lash and before you actually pull the cams.
One other thought: a forum member named Man Of Blues (Rich) also came up with what I think is a good idea- you can measure each bucket with a pair of micrometers and note the size of each. They are very close to each other in size but not identical- it will give you one more variable to move buckets around as well as shims and perhaps save having to buy some shims. The same thing applies here too- write down the sizes and the locations and you will have a bucket map to use in the future as well.
Brian
Brian, I thought I woul have to get them to optimum levels (aside from the one which is below .004. Do I not need to get shims in the range of .001-.002 bigger than what is in there now? I had planned on pulling each one so I could at least have an accurate inventory of what shim sizes I have for each valve.
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I guess I was confused because you said what I had was ok. So far all I have measured is the gap. I was under the impression I need to get each intake and exhaust valve to .006 and .009. Is that correct?
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Well, what you have is OK but not optimal- you really should measure that smallest clearance. Find out which feeler gauge (or set) goes in the gap to establish a low limit- you list it as less than 0.004", which is not a measurement.
The gaps are different for the intakes and exhausts. They are as follows:
Intake: 0.0047" to 0.0067"
Exhaust 0.0075 to 0.0094"
I round these off to 0.0045" to 0.0065" and 0.0075" to 0.0095" because they are much easier to deal with in 1/2 thousandth of an inch increments. The manual suggests trying to set the gap toward the center of the tolerance which is a reasonable way to do it IMO. Some people set them toward the loose end; in the end, I do not think it makes much difference because there is only two- thousandths of tolerance anyway so the difference between the middle and one end of tolerance is only one thousandth.
Another suggestion I would make would be to do the entire job in one measuring system, either English or Metric. As you are measuring the gap in inches, I would suggest using a chart representing all the shims in inches also. Put another way, do not convert back and forth while trying to figure out which shims go where because you will be much more likely to make a mistake IMO.
The suggestion I gave regarding measuring and swapping the buckets is purely optional and not necessary. It is not mentioned or suggested by the manual.
Brian
I guess I was confused because you said what I had was ok. So far all I have measured is the gap. I was under the impression I need to get each intake and exhaust valve to .006 and .009. Is that correct?
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I am not sure I am follow you here Will but first of all, you need to know the gap that is there. Less than XXX isn't really a measurement- it could be 0.0035 (likely) or 0.0025. Without a starting gap, you cannot change the shim(s) out for a desired gap.
Besides that, if the lash (gap) is too small, you do not want bigger shims, you want to use smaller shims to increase the gap.
Yep, if you pull the cams, it is a good idea to record each shim size as found in the engine. It will establish a base map for this time or even future lash checks if you do not change some shims this time. Next time, if you know what size shims are in each position, you can go about getting new shims as soon as you measure the lash and before you actually pull the cams.
One other thought: a forum member named Man Of Blues (Rich) also came up with what I think is a good idea- you can measure each bucket with a pair of micrometers and note the size of each. They are very close to each other in size but not identical- it will give you one more variable to move buckets around as well as shims and perhaps save having to buy some shims. The same thing applies here too- write down the sizes and the locations and you will have a bucket map to use in the future as well.
Brian
2nd read: fully understand all about the less than value. Was actually one of my next questions but you answered before I asked :). I'll get some more feeler gauges and yes correct, will need smaller shims. I'm anxious to get to measuring. I actually did pull the one shim I could not measure. Anyway, what sucks and now I understand, I no longer can measure the gap without putting the cam back in now, right? Shoot.
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Haha we posted at same time and had a meeting of the minds. How about how to measure now that I have it all apart. Can I just lay the cam back in and measure? Or do I have to put the covers back on to measure?
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Yes, in a perfect world you would put the cam back in and measure but here is what I would do: assume the gap is 0.0035" and adjust the shim size to get the clearance you want. That way you have an excellent shot of getting the lash back into tolerance even if the value is not exactly in the middle. It is unlikely that the lash is actually less than 0.003" anyway so 0.0035" is a very reasonable assumption. Of course when you do reassemble the cams you will measure the final clearance anyway so in the very unlikely situation that that valve's lash is out of tolerance you can correct it anyway.
One other though- I just noticed you put 'optimal' clearances on your lash chart of 0.005 and 0.009; I believe better numbers to use would be 0.0055 and 0.0085. A small difference but more accurate and when the inevitable tolerances and small differences gang up, you will be more likely to get closer to the middle. Again, it is just a math thing but I believe carrying all the numbers through in the half- thousandth slots (shims included here) will yield a more accurate finish.
Brian
2nd read: fully understand all about the less than value. Was actually one of my next questions but you answered before I asked :). I'll get some more feeler gauges and yes correct, will need smaller shims. I'm anxious to get to measuring. I actually did pull the one shim I could not measure. Anyway, what sucks and now I understand, I no longer can measure the gap without putting the cam back in now, right? Shoot.
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Nope, you have to put the cam bearing caps back on, torque them to the correct tightness, re-time the engine and put the engine in the correct places to measure the lash. If you put the cam in the head 'loose', it will sit up on some of the cam lobes and yield extremely incorrect lash values (some being zero with others being something like 0.125"- WAY off).
As I said, you might want to assume that sub- 0.004" lash is 0.0035" and work through the entire job. Check the lash at the end just to be sure they are all correct before buttoning the engine up.
Brian
Haha we posted at same time and had a meeting of the minds. How about how to measure now that I have it all apart. Can I just lay the cam back in and measure? Or do I have to put the covers back on to measure?
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Thanks Brian. I'll work through the measurements using these assumptions an build a new map with the values. I like the idea of measuring the buckets also and will do so. This is fun.
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I pulled the shims from cylinder four and did some measures using my electronic caliper. Is this ok, or do I absolutely need to use a micrometer? I have one and will measure again if need be. I checked accuracy of micrometer against new shims in my shim kit and it was off by .01mm.
below is my draft map for cylinder 4... Should I invoke some rounding? I've also included the stamped original shim stamp size for comparison. If you think this is good, I'll move forward with the rest. I do still plan on measuring the buckets, and adding to the map.
Pic deleted.
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map was hosed...redid....formulas were jacked. click on pic if hard to read.
(http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=156)
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FWIW, I gave up on trying to use SAE tools on metric vehicles a long time ago. Personally, I would recommend buying a metric feeler gauge and micrometer. I still prefer mph and mpg, but the valve adjusts were much easier for me using metric info all the way through. As Brian said, you need to check all the measurements when you are done anyway. The question that often comes up is whether you want to set the specs at mid-range, or at the loose end of allowable. I went with mid-range, but the loose argument seemed reasonable to me.
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FWIW, I gave up on trying to use SAE tools on metric vehicles a long time ago. Personally, I would recommend buying a metric feeler gauge and micrometer. I still prefer mph and mpg, but the valve adjusts were much easier for me using metric info all the way through. As Brian said, you need to check all the measurements when you are done anyway. The question that often comes up is whether you want to set the specs at mid-range, or at the loose end of allowable. I went with mid-range, but the loose argument seemed reasonable to me.
Didn't have too bad of a time, thanks to Excel and "0.0254" conversion factor, but I like the idea of all metric. Know where I can get? I'll keep my eyes peeled.
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Here is a pic of the label on my shim kit. Is this ok to use? Concours manual says not to use "...shims from another model..." THey are the same diameter, but I guess that doesn't mean much. I bought this from my local kawi dealer who said it was fine...that don't make it good either though, trust you guys more. If it's good, so far for cylinder 4, all the shims I need are in there. Advice appreciated.
(http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=163)
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Those should work fine. Plus, they are the genuine 'Chinese' types rather than some cheap knock- offs.... ;) As long as the sizes are accurate (thickness) you should be fine.
You really cannot measure the shims with any type of calipers because they are not accurate enough. Micrometers are the right tool for that job. You do not really have to measure them though as the size code stamped on them should be good enough- that is all Kawasaki uses I suspect.
The shims are not really subject to much stress or any wear- they are just spacers. True the entire force generated by the camshaft lobes is forced through the shims to move the valves but that is not an especially high load either. So inexpensive shims should work just as well as any others and the sizes marked on the shim should be good enough to choose the right ones. Micrometer measurement is a nice idea if you already have them and know how to use them consistently- there is some skill involved in using micrometers and it is certainly possible to generate more error in the use of such a tool than there ever was in the shims themselves; put another way, used incorrectly or not properly cleaned (by closing the mikes on a piece of clean white paper and sliding the paper out from between the anvil and spindle) the reading of the micrometers will be less accurate than the numbers stamped on the shims themselves.
Brian
Here is a pic of the label on my shim kit. Is this ok to use? Concours manual says not to use "...shims from another model..." THey are the same diameter, but I guess that doesn't mean much. I bought this from my local kawi dealer who said it was fine...that don't make it good either though, trust you guys more. If it's good, so far for cylinder 4, all the shims I need are in there. Advice appreciated.
(http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=163)
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While you were writing I was already re-measuring with the micrometer :-) as I had to use it for the buckets. What I immediately noticed is that the stamped values on the shims exactly match a micrometer measurement...so caliper is out. I've adjusted my cylinder four measurements, and will do with the rest of the shims/buckets and post here.
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Now this is some good reading right here. Thanks for sharing Will, & everyone else.
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Now this is some good reading right here. Thanks for sharing Will, & everyone else.
No sweat, hope its helpful. I'm getting ready to post my complete shim map for comments. I'll see if I can post as an excel so you can download.
UPDATE: figured it out...comments are welcome...I'd like to fine tune so that I (or anyone that wants this)...can add values, and it does much of the computing for you. I did have to manually add the "closest shim size value to each valve.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl)
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Ok final shim map posted to media directory.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl)
Here are the results: 15 of 16 shims need a swap. I have everything except for 2.225mm. Need 7. I'll call kawi shop tonight to see if they have, if not perhaps some trades? I'll post in the shim swap thread tonight after I call bike shop.
Installed Need
2.25 2.2
2.25 2.2 2.2 need 2; have two
2.25 2.225 2.225 need 7; need 7 more
2.25 2.225 2.25 need 5 have all on hand
2.25 2.225 2.275 need 1 have on hand
2.25 2.225 2.3 need 1 have on hand
2.25 2.225
2.275 2.225
2.275 2.225
2.275 2.25
2.275 2.25
2.275 2.25
2.3 2.25
2.3 2.25
2.3 2.275
2.325 2.3
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You can also use Honda shims; they seem to be more readily available and are a couple of bucks cheaper too. You can actually use any brand shim as long as it is 9.48 diameter and the right thickness.
Brian
Ok final shim map posted to media directory.
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=media;sa=media;in=185;dl)
Here are the results: 15 of 16 shims need a swap. I have everything except for 2.225mm. Need 7. I'll call kawi shop tonight to see if they have, if not perhaps some trades? I'll post in the shim swap thread tonight after I call bike shop.
<snipped table>
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Going through and doing this yourself, and being picky about the adjustment, you are going to get those clearances Spot On. Odds are if you had taken it in, not many shims would get changed if any, sad but true.
Since its your bike, and can spend the extra time to do it correctly, you will end up with much better results. By the time your done with your service that bike will run really smooth.
Personally I would keep the Bucket/ Tappet against the same lobe, so to keep any wear pattern in tact, .02c
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Yeah, on engines with softer cams and followers such as older automotive types I would do the same thing. These cams and buckets are so hard though that it is unlikely they will establish a shape from wear.
Also, all engines with shim- over- bucket require that the cam follower itself (the shim on those engines) be changed to adjust lash and they did not seem to suffer from repeated cam follower changes. Changing or moving the buckets is effectively the same as changing the shims on the earlier type engines.
Brian
<snip>
Personally I would keep the Bucket/ Tappet against the same lobe, so to keep any wear pattern in tact, .02c
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Yeah, on engines with softer cams and followers such as older automotive types I would do the same thing. These cams and buckets are so hard though that it is unlikely they will establish a shape from wear.
Also, all engines with shim- over- bucket require that the cam follower itself (the shim on those engines) be changed to adjust lash and they did not seem to suffer from repeated cam follower changes. Changing or moving the buckets is effectively the same as changing the shims on the earlier type engines.
Brian
I was actually looking for an opportunity to do a bucket swap, but it turned into such a shell game, I left it alone, and opted just for shims swaps. Eitherway, At least now I have the sizes documented. As soon as I get the shims, I'll put it all back to together, do another lash check, record results, change plugs, and then do the throttle body sync. Its all starting to come together. I don't anticipate I'll be done until two weekends from now, but thats ok, as it gives me time to put some miles on my son's bike. I'm thinking its time for another horse in the stable though, for times Connie is down for maintenance...that 250 just ain't cuttin it. Maybe a used Ninja 650. Or a used VSTROM 650! Thats the ticket!
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Yeah, on engines with softer cams and followers such as older automotive types I would do the same thing. These cams and buckets are so hard though that it is unlikely they will establish a shape from wear.
Also, all engines with shim- over- bucket require that the cam follower itself (the shim on those engines) be changed to adjust lash and they did not seem to suffer from repeated cam follower changes. Changing or moving the buckets is effectively the same as changing the shims on the earlier type engines.
Brian
Many of the Shim Over Bucket/ Tappet Motors show significant wear on the Shim, from the lobe contact, dished. Easy to Measure with a Mic, but not a Caliper.
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Going through and doing this yourself, and being picky about the adjustment, you are going to get those clearances Spot On. Odds are if you had taken it in, not many shims would get changed if any, sad but true.
Since its your bike, and can spend the extra time to do it correctly, you will end up with much better results. By the time your done with your service that bike will run really smooth.
Personally I would keep the Bucket/ Tappet against the same lobe, so to keep any wear pattern in tact, .02c
That is why I asked for a shim map from my dealer. All my clearances ended up being good (40,000 miles and third valve check) but they gave me the measurements for each valve.
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Kawi shop in Manassas will swap shims with me for free. Sending my son to pick them up today, schedule permitting. If not, I'll get them Saturday. Went through my numbers again. I think I'm good. we'll see when I measure again.
one question though on torque...there are either one or two bolts you just can't get a socket onto...how to torque them. Is a needle type torque wrench ok to use here?
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I'm thinking its time for another horse in the stable though, for times Connie is down for maintenance...that 250 just ain't cuttin it. Maybe a used Ninja 650. Or a used VSTROM 650! Thats the ticket!
I can help you with that! My C10 would look good next to the 250.
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I can help you with that! My C10 would look good next to the 250.
Haha!! Right right, you are still trying to find a new home for her. Did you list on eBay as well?
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Not yet, figured I'd wait till early spring to list it there. It should sell then.
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Kawi shop in Manassas will swap shims with me for free. Sending my son to pick them up today, schedule permitting. If not, I'll get them Saturday. Went through my numbers again. I think I'm good. we'll see when I measure again.
one question though on torque...there are either one or two bolts you just can't get a socket onto...how to torque them. Is a needle type torque wrench ok to use here?
If you can get a needle-type torque wrench to fit, use it. At that point I used my finely-calibrated wrist/forearm to torque the last few. To calibrate, tighten some of the others by hand, then check with the tq wrench. Not perfect, but best I could do.
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Clyde (LT1) already answered this with good info. IMO. Just to add to it a bit- it is usually easiest to tighten fasteners correctly by using the right tool; a short 'L' wrench will work best to tighten the cam bearing cap bolts rather than a longer ratchet and socket combination. It is difficult to use tools that are too large (easy boys!) and not put too much pressure on fasteners. Just as an example, I do not think anyone would ever strip something like a final drive drain bolt if he / she used a socket driver to tighten it instead of a wrench or ratchet.
Brian
Kawi shop in Manassas will swap shims with me for free. Sending my son to pick them up today, schedule permitting. If not, I'll get them Saturday. Went through my numbers again. I think I'm good. we'll see when I measure again.
one question though on torque...there are either one or two bolts you just can't get a socket onto...how to torque them. Is a needle type torque wrench ok to use here?
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17 Dec: finally finished installing new shims, torques of cam holders/covers, and put header back on. after i got the holders back on i made sure to rotate engine a couple full revolutions to make sure i didn't hear any sounds indicative of the cam being installed wrong. What should have probably been a two hour drill took me around four, as I had to open back up and exchange one more shim after everything was said and done. Remember on cylinder 4 intake? I didn't have an accurate measurement, so i guessed in my calculations, and i managed to get it in the zone with a 2.25 shim, but it is still at the bottom of the acceptable range. I don't have anymore smaller shims to satisfy a mid range gap, so let it go.
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18 Dec: TOday I finished buttoning up the engine, put the cam position sensor cover back on. Had to go buy some high temp sealant before i closed it up. Also reinstalled stick coils, and associated harness. Fired her up and looked for leaks...all good. Boy I tell you once she turned on and sounded nice..I had to do a high five with my self. I then proceeded to do the throttle body sync and whoop whoop, they were still all spot-on and balanced. I bled the front brakes, installed new brake pads (the original set got 14,800 miles, and the wear markers were gone. I also noticed what appeared to be chunks missing from the edges on a couple of the pads. I cleaned the calipers with brake cleaner. As i was cleaning the right side (I had both calipers unmounted), the left side cylinder seemed to almost "pop" out and started leaking brake fluid...is that normal? I pushed it back in cleaned all up, installed the pads and then went on ahead and bled the front brakes. Oh yeah, I'm quite the noob. I didn't notice the calipers and master cylinders already had what appeared to be speed bleeder valves. What is the difference between these OEM valves and the one's Murph sells? If nothing, I just wasted money buying a set. My bike has been down so long, I am opting not to install the galfer hoses yet. Save for another day. I also drained the coolant and put new coolant (Honda HP). Managed to get much of the left side fairing stays back in place.
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There should not be any fluid leaking from the piston on your caliper. Did you inspect the seal for any visible damage? If it is in fact, leaking from around the piston you will likely need a piston rebuild kit or a new caliper.
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There should not be any fluid leaking from the piston on your caliper. Did you inspect the seal for any visible damage? If it is in fact, leaking from around the piston you will likely need a piston rebuild kit or a new caliper.
crap. knew it was too good to be true. ill disassemble tomorrow after i bleed the entire system again. i guess document and inspect every part. where do i get a rebuild kit should i need one? If the seal is broken, I wonder if i can take to kawi for a fix.
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crap. knew it was too good to be true. ill disassemble tomorrow after i bleed the entire system again. i guess document and inspect every part. where do i get a rebuild kit should i need one? If the seal is broken, I wonder if i can take to kawi for a fix.
BTW Thanks Jeremy, and everyone who has commented on this thread. Every day I learn how green I still am, but help on this site is keeping me straight. It WAS a good feeling to unzip that engine and button her back up, and her her fire back to life after I put it back together.
So brakes tonight when I get home...I will bleed, dismantle both calipers and thoroughly inspect. I guess I should take the whole damn thing apart and check each piece. About 3 weeks ago I posted a strange noise coming from front brakes...think it could have been a leak in my caliper?? Just to coincidental. Might as well install the galfers now too.
Throttlebody sync pic:
(http://www.zggtr.org/MGalleryItem.php?id=193)
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Just to make sure I got this straight from reading the manual....It appears the brake fluid pushes directly against the cylinder...and the fluid is maintained in the caliper by the fluid seal. and dust seal keeps the dust out. So by pumping the brakes, as I was working on the right-hand side, the left hand caliper (which was dangling and pads removed) cylinders closed, and one of them was passed the fluid seal, which would result in brake fluid leaking out from behind the cylinder. Does this make sense? It would appear to me that I don't necessarly have a bad seal, but the fluid came out as expected (albeit not the way one would WANT the fluid to drain, as I had a lil mess to clean up).
Just the same, I plan on ordering some new fluid seals and dust seals...is that enough? Or are there some other parts to the "rebuild" kit. I was planning on ordering directly from Ron Ayers...make sense or any better ideas?
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Chips along edges of pads are normal. It almost sounds like you allowed the piston to extend out past the seals. They are similar to piston rings. I am always careful to put something between the pads, or if they are removed, the pistons so they don't move out of the bores. Just keep that fluid away from painted surfaces, like wheels, fender and other body work. I salute you for taking on this project. I hope you get to go ride soon and enjoy the results.
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thanks Gnuse, i wish i just had time to take off work and get er done. I'm kinda limited to weekends. I have my son's moto to get me to work while i get it done, but damn if I don't hurry up, I'll have to spend time doing his maintenance (with him of course), as i am racking up the miles on his. I bought the fluid seals and dust seals for both front calipers and rear from Ron Ayers...geez makes u wanna brake softer. :-)
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IF you break the caliper halves apart I would replace the seals of the fluid passages in the bodies. That shouldn't be necessary though. If you find the piston seal(s) to be bad just replace that seal and the dust seal. They are inexpensive and easy to do. Just remember not to put the piston back in dry. Use some clean brake fluid on the seals to help keep the new seals from being damaged when putting the piston in. Easy as pie.
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IF you break the caliper halves apart I would replace the seals of the fluid passages in the bodies. That shouldn't be necessary though. If you find the piston seal(s) to be bad just replace that seal and the dust seal. They are inexpensive and easy to do. Just remember not to put the piston back in dry. Use some clean brake fluid on the seals to help keep the new seals from being damaged when putting the piston in. Easy as pie.
What he said and I would add that you might not want to go looking for work and replace those parts unnecessarily.
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What he said and I would add that you might not want to go looking for work and replace those parts unnecessarily.
understand thx!
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It sounds like you pushed a piston out a little too far and uncovered the seal in the caliper. Perfectly normal if that is what happened.
New seals and dust seals are all that is usually needed to rebuild the caliper on a motorcycle. As long as the piston is clean and corrosion free, new seals will effectively make the caliper new.
The calipers on a C-14 are really easy to disassemble service and reassemble. You will probably need an external Torx driver that you may not already have to split the calipers but it is an easy tool to find and inexpensive. You might want to buy some caliper (brake) grease so you can lube the seals before reinstalling the pistons- you can use brake fluid for this but brake grease works much better.
Brian
Just to make sure I got this straight from reading the manual....It appears the brake fluid pushes directly against the cylinder...and the fluid is maintained in the caliper by the fluid seal. and dust seal keeps the dust out. So by pumping the brakes, as I was working on the right-hand side, the left hand caliper (which was dangling and pads removed) cylinders closed, and one of them was passed the fluid seal, which would result in brake fluid leaking out from behind the cylinder. Does this make sense? It would appear to me that I don't necessarly have a bad seal, but the fluid came out as expected (albeit not the way one would WANT the fluid to drain, as I had a lil mess to clean up).
Just the same, I plan on ordering some new fluid seals and dust seals...is that enough? Or are there some other parts to the "rebuild" kit. I was planning on ordering directly from Ron Ayers...make sense or any better ideas?
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Congrats Will, good to hear that it all worked out for you. And it sounds like you did a great job, especially considering this is your first time doing it.
The OEM bleeder valves are not speed bleeders, they are just ordinarily bleeders that you have to turn with a wrench to open and close them. Speed bleeders have a one- way check valve in them so you can bleed the brakes with the bleeders left open; they will not suck fluid (or air) back in when you release the lever. To the best of my knowledge, no vehicle manufacturer uses speed bleeders as stock equipment.
Brian
18 Dec: TOday I finished buttoning up the engine, put the cam position sensor cover back on. Had to go buy some high temp sealant before i closed it up. Also reinstalled stick coils, and associated harness. Fired her up and looked for leaks...all good. Boy I tell you once she turned on and sounded nice..I had to do a high five with my self. I then proceeded to do the throttle body sync and whoop whoop, they were still all spot-on and balanced. I bled the front brakes, installed new brake pads (the original set got 14,800 miles, and the wear markers were gone. I also noticed what appeared to be chunks missing from the edges on a couple of the pads. I cleaned the calipers with brake cleaner. As i was cleaning the right side (I had both calipers unmounted), the left side cylinder seemed to almost "pop" out and started leaking brake fluid...is that normal? I pushed it back in cleaned all up, installed the pads and then went on ahead and bled the front brakes. Oh yeah, I'm quite the noob. I didn't notice the calipers and master cylinders already had what appeared to be speed bleeder valves. What is the difference between these OEM valves and the one's Murph sells? If nothing, I just wasted money buying a set. My bike has been down so long, I am opting not to install the galfer hoses yet. Save for another day. I also drained the coolant and put new coolant (Honda HP). Managed to get much of the left side fairing stays back in place.
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Thx Brian! I'll get the speed bleeders and Galfers installed then; since I gotta dismantle the calipers anyway. Will also source the Torx driver (you're right, I don't have), as well as brake grease. Seals should come before Christmas, I hope!
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Congrats Will, good to hear that it all worked out for you. And it sounds like you did a great job, especially considering this is your first time doing it.
The OEM bleeder valves are not speed bleeders, they are just ordinarily bleeders that you have to turn with a wrench to open and close them. Speed bleeders have a one- way check valve in them so you can bleed the brakes with the bleeders left open; they will not suck fluid (or air) back in when you release the lever. To the best of my knowledge, no vehicle manufacturer uses speed bleeders as stock equipment.
Brian
24 Dec: So bled the front, rear brakes, and clutch. Also installed the speed bleeders and the front galfer lines. I'm a little confused though...how do these speed bleeders work?? How to make them bleed? Don't need to bleed anything right now (already empty). Is there a special attachment that pushes the check valve down?
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A speed bleeder is a one-way device and will only allow air and fluid to exit the system but not enter. So you open a speed bleeder with a wrench as you would a normal bleeder but then just pump the brake lever (or clutch lever) without having to close the bleeder at all. So you open a speed bleeder at the beginning of bleeding and leave it alone until you are all finished and then close it. A regular bleeder would need to be opened and closed on each stroke of the brake lever.
Brian
24 Dec: So bled the front, rear brakes, and clutch. Also installed the speed bleeders and the front galfer lines. I'm a little confused though...how do these speed bleeders work?? How to make them bleed? Don't need to bleed anything right now (already empty). Is there a special attachment that pushes the check valve down?
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A speed bleeder is a one-way device and will only allow air and fluid to exit the system but not enter. So you open a speed bleeder with a wrench as you would a normal bleeder but then just pump the brake lever (or clutch lever) without having to close the bleeder at all. So you open a speed bleeder at the beginning of bleeding and leave it alone until you are all finished and then close it. A regular bleeder would need to be opened and closed on each stroke of the brake lever.
Brian
Brian, this is what I did with the OEM bleeders. I opened with a wrench and kept pumping the brakes until i was sure it bled out totally, then i closed. I think maybe I still don't understand...appreciate your patience...can you hit me again?
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Sure-
Stock brake bleeders are nothing but a tube with a tapered seal at the bottom. If you open them, leave them open and pump the brakes, fluid and air will flow out and then back in when the lever is released. In fact some fluid will be pumped out but only air will be drawn back into the master cylinder. This assumes you are leaving the bleeder bare without any type of hose attached. So a stock bleeder has to be opened, then the lever pushed (or squeezed) to eject air / fluid, then the bleeder closed, then the lever released.
A speed bleeder has a check valve in it so that when it is open, material can only be pushed out and not drawn back in. So each time you operate the lever, fluid and air are forced out but when you release it nothing is drawn back in- it is a one way trip for everything inside the hydraulics.
An easy way to check if you have a speed bleeder or not is to try to look through it; a conventional, stock bleeder has a hole all the way through and you can see through it. A speed bleeder has a ball and spring inside and you cannot see through them. Also you can take a length of clean tubing and try to blow through a bleeder- a stock bleeder will easily pass air both ways while a speed bleeder will only allow air to pass from the bottom to the top and not at all the other way.
You can buy an external one- way valve and put it into a piece of plastic tubing attached to a stock bleeder and it will provide the same function. I believe they are typically called 'automatic bleeders' and are only a few dollars at any auto parts store.
You can also use a brake fluid catching / bleeding container. This is a plastic container where the tubing goes all the way to the bottom. What happens is that any air in the system is pumped out and bubbles up through the fluid in the container. But when the lever is released anything drawn back into the system is pure brake fluid because any air has risen above the liquid level in the container. I do not find that these work well though because not much fluid works its way from the reservoir to the slave cylinder and it is difficult to get air from the M.C. all the way to the slave cylinder.
Brian
Brian, this is what I did with the OEM bleeders. I opened with a wrench and kept pumping the brakes until i was sure it bled out totally, then i closed. I think maybe I still don't understand...appreciate your patience...can you hit me again?
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now I got it! So when I refill, I can be pretty confident to not have any air in there once the fluid comes out of the bleeder at the speed bleeder. correct? I'll have one of those bags from Murph attached to the end of the bleeder.
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Well not quite- the hydraulic systems on this bike are a pretty pesky to bleed in my experience. I finally resorted to a powered bleeder after all three systems (both brakes and the clutch) tortured me on a couple of different occasions. The problem is that air 'hides' in the system in corners and small pockets so that while you push clear fluid out of the bleeder the system is still not fully bled.
I am not normally much of a doom- crier and some people say they have had good success manually bleeding the hydraulics on a C-14 but not me. Perhaps I am not the one to give advice? ;) In any event, the object in bleeding hydraulics is to get 100% of the air out of the system and the way to tell is that the lever (or pedal) should be firm with virtually no movement before the hydraulics engage. If the system feels 'soft' or you can continue to squeeze the lever after the brakes engage, there is still air in the system.
One other thing- if you are just flushing the system of the old fluid, there is no reason to introduce any air into the system at all. That makes it pretty easy to do and unlikely it will be difficult. But that is not really bleeding the system, just flushing it. So I would suggest to anyone trying to flush any of the systems on a C-14 NOT to let ANY air get into the master cylinder at any time. If you are doing something like changing brake lines then of course the system must be bled as it will definitely have air in it.
I finally bought a MityVac air- powered bleeding system. It makes an ugly job easy and while expensive, it was worth it to me (about $120 as I remember). As a side bonus, it makes it easy to change oil in small engines because it will suck the old oil out of the filler instead of pulling the plug and having the oil coat the machine and the garage.
Brian
now I got it! So when I refill, I can be pretty confident to not have any air in there once the fluid comes out of the bleeder at the speed bleeder. correct? I'll have one of those bags from Murph attached to the end of the bleeder.
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I like the idea of a tool. I'll get lots of use out of it. Is this it?
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200007974_200007974 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200007974_200007974)
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That is not the one I have but it also looks like a nice rig and you would not need an air compressor to use it. It looks like it will do all the jobs the one I use will do and maybe more. ??
The one I use is a MityVac 6830 and looks like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SP101A10556S2834531101P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=18-105312774-2 (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SP101A10556S2834531101P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=18-105312774-2)
Just over $100 or so if you shop around. Note that you need a source of compressed air to use this bleeder though.
Brian
I like the idea of a tool. I'll get lots of use out of it. Is this it?
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200007974_200007974 (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200007974_200007974)
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THanks Brian, so using this unit makes mince meat out of getting the air out of your system? I'll buy.
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25 Dec: Merry Christmas! Today I installed the rear Galfer break line, refilled rear brake fluid, and bled air out of system . Its nice and tight now when engaging the rear break, so confident I got all air out. I also refilled the clutch with brake fluid. Bleeding it was a drawn out system, but got it pretty tight also. I then installed new oil and dust seals in my front calipers. Now I am quite confident I didn't lose it, but is it remotely possible my right caliper would have stayed airtight, even if for a while, missing an O-ring? It would appear one half of one of the calipers was missing the O-ring that lays against the other on the opposite caliper half, creating the channel through which the brake fluid flows. So damnit, need another part. Just when I thought I was gonna get it done today. :-(
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Not exactly sure what you mean but there is only one O-ring between each caliper set. In other words, the O-ring will be stuck to one caliper half and the other half will have a counter bored hole that <could> hold an O-ring. The one O-ring seals both halves together so one per caliper side is all there is (two O-rings altogether on the front of the bike).
Brian
25 Dec: Merry Christmas! Today I installed the rear Galfer break line, refilled rear brake fluid, and bled air out of system . Its nice and tight now when engaging the rear break, so confident I got all air out. I also refilled the clutch with brake fluid. Bleeding it was a drawn out system, but got it pretty tight also. I then installed new oil and dust seals in my front calipers. Now I am quite confident I didn't lose it, but is it remotely possible my right caliper would have stayed airtight, even if for a while, missing an O-ring? It would appear one half of one of the calipers was missing the O-ring that lays against the other on the opposite caliper half, creating the channel through which the brake fluid flows. So damnit, need another part. Just when I thought I was gonna get it done today. :-(
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i see...what i thought was another o-ring is merely the counter-bored hole which kinda looks like it has an o-ring in it as well. Bottomline, when I cracked open one of the calipers this o-ring was not there. I didn't know what I was truly looking at until I opened the other. Having said all that, it is POSSIBLE it popped out and I didn't know it, but I just combed my garage and it ain't showin up. So just wondering if it was even remotely possible that it would have had a seal without that o-ring there to begin with....Eitherway, I'm halted again until I get one.
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So just wondering if it was even remotely possible that it would have had a seal without that o-ring there to begin with....
I doubt that it's even remotely possible that there was no o-ring there. The brake system develops such high pressures that without an o-ring, surely fluid would have at least wept from the joint, causing noticible dirt buildup and probably wetting the pads, maybe dripping on the wheel. It's surely hiding somewhere, they can roll a long way (DAMHIK).
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There is one O-ring between a pair of front brake caliper halves on a C-14. It goes into a well, or counterbore, machined into the surface where the two caliper faces mate. It is part number 92049-1448, and there is one for each caliper on the bike; two up front and one in the back for a total of three O-rings between each caliper set.
There really had to be an O-ring between each caliper set or the caliper halves would have leaked brake fluid. Even if it did not leak enough to interfere with brake function, it would have made the caliper and probably the brake pads wet with brake fluid.
But disappearing parts is one small step down the long road to a Haroldo repair! Soon after, bigger and more important parts will begin to disappear. Then things will catch on fire. Finally, your pet dogs will steal parts of the bike while you have it dissembled and are not watching.... Ah, the good old days. Sorry Will, Haroldo has an aura around him and it really cannot be explained by others, it must be experienced.... sort of like a bath that at first seems too hot but soon becomes just right. ;D ;D
Brian
i see...what i thought was another o-ring is merely the counter-bored hole which kinda looks like it has an o-ring in it as well. Bottomline, when I cracked open one of the calipers this o-ring was not there. I didn't know what I was truly looking at until I opened the other. Having said all that, it is POSSIBLE it popped out and I didn't know it, but I just combed my garage and it ain't showin up. So just wondering if it was even remotely possible that it would have had a seal without that o-ring there to begin with....Eitherway, I'm halted again until I get one.
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There is one O-ring between a pair of front brake caliper halves on a C-14. It goes into a well, or counterbore, machined into the surface where the two caliper faces mate. It is part number 92049-1448, and there is one for each caliper on the bike; two up front and one in the back for a total of three O-rings between each caliper set.
There really had to be an O-ring between each caliper set or the caliper halves would have leaked brake fluid. Even if it did not leak enough to interfere with brake function, it would have made the caliper and probably the brake pads wet with brake fluid.
But disappearing parts is one small step down the long road to a Haroldo repair! Soon after, bigger and more important parts will begin to disappear. Then things will catch on fire. Finally, your pet dogs will steal parts of the bike while you have it dissembled and are not watching.... Ah, the good old days. Sorry Will, Haroldo has an aura around him and it really cannot be explained by others, it must be experienced.... sort of like a bath that at first seems too hot but soon becomes just right. ;D ;D
Brian
Yeah, i musta lost it. Been wrenching on my truck all day. New steering damper, air filter and turbo boots. Then made a bracket to hold my new bypass oil filter and tranny filter, was cool cuz my buddy had a sandblaster and we cut and angled the piece just right, sandblasted it, and put a caot of primer on. Tomorrow im actually ginna take a day off, go to bike shop and get a new o-ring, and get my damn bike done! That is, if Im allowed to reuse the stock double bango for my front right caliper because galfer didnt send me a new one with my new galfer lines which are now installed minus bolts to calipers. These i didnt lose like my O-ring! :)
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You should be able to pick up banjo washers anywhere and reuse your stock bolts. I have done this every time I have broken the brake lines free with no issues.
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5 Jan: Didn't post earlier, but Since December, I installed the front fork sliders, frame sliders, swing-arm protector, o-ring seal in left caliper, Tech Spec Tank Protectors, and asundry of smaller 15K checks. Still having problem with air in front brakes, work well enough but still a bubble in there somewhere. Since I have to get my VA state inspection done, I dropped off at the shop for them to do, and bleed my front lines for me. Learned enough in this excursion...hit it again (but hell no on bleeding) in 7,500 miles.
Thanks for reading. The very first thread contains all the periodic updates.
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Too cold to be messing with brakes in an unheated garage! Bike looks good all back together.
BTW..what's a swing-arm protector??
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My local Auto Zone has a package of Banjo washers on the shelf. You end up with several sizes you dont need, but cost is less than two oem ones.
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Just a lil knob from gsg moto that mounts on the lower tetra lever. Twisted throttle sells it for dunno about 30 bucks. Yeah when u saw me I was doing stop and goes to make my front ABS engage. I was worried I mighta dorked up putting on the galfer lines, but after thirty successful engages, I'm confident the ABS is functioning fine. Just need that last bit of air outta the system and I'll be good.
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Th
You should be able to pick up banjo washers anywhere and reuse your stock bolts. I have done this every time I have broken the brake lines free with no issues.
They sent me plenty washers, just not a new double bango. I just reused the stock.
Ok, now I'm really done. Got my bike back over the weekend. What I thought was air was actually brake grease making the pistons sluggish. I coated the inside of the cylinder with brake grease which the pistons didn't like. Once it was cleaned out, bled again, all was well. Guess my final comments would be "good lawdy miss mawdy." That was tough work, but damn so much fun. I can't wait to do it again in 15K (7K is a piece of cake). I can't say I saved money this time around, as I picked up a bunch of new tools, but I didn't really do it to save money NOW, but in the future. I can say I learned alot, and am ready for the next go around. PS: no left over screws :-)
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I am sure the accomplishment gives you a feeling of satisfaction and comfort knowing that the job was done well. Congrats for having the bravery to tackle these jobs.
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I am sure the accomplishment gives you a feeling of satisfaction and comfort knowing that the job was done well. Congrats for having the bravery to tackle these jobs.
Thanks bro! still have a lot to learn, but gotta start somewhere.