Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: RFH87_Connie on May 16, 2011, 01:42:52 PM
-
I can't find it in my manual. What is the height to set the fork tubes (not the oil, but the tube) when they have been removed for servicing (and spraying with Rhino liner)? I looked all over the manual and can't find it. Where is it?
Thanks Guys,
Frank
-
The manual doesn't give a number, but page 12-5 of the factory manual has a couple of pictures that show the top of the fork. It looks to be about 3/8" to 1/2" down from the top of the handlebar clamp. I ran the stock forks even with the top of the handlebar clamp for slightly quicker steering, but I had the later version forks that didn't have the caps over the fork ends. HTH,
-
That will probably be close enough - as long as its equal.
-
When I installed my handlebar risers, they came with inserts that my fork tubes now bottom out against. I think I may have lowered the front about a half inch or so when I reinstalled the forks the first time, which is good due to my stubby legs. Personally, I would be more concerned if it wasn't inserted enough than if you insert them a little more than they were before.
Of course, if you insert them too far, your fender may end up banging against the fairing...
;D
-
:)
According to the Clymer's Manual, Chap. #12, page #335, figure #1, note #4: "NOTE THAT THE TOP OF THE FORK TUBE ALIGNS WITH THE TOP OF THE HANDLEBAR BRACKET (FIGURE #1). tHE FORK TUBE MUST BE INSTALLED IN THIS POSITION."
I have my forks out of my '86 now and will be re-installing them this week. I'm using both the Service Manual and Clymer's to help me get things back together.
HTH,
Bob Young
COG #5753
-
Likewise in the Kawa M/C service/workshop manual (this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kawasaki-GTR1000-1986-2000-Workshop-Manual-GTR-ZG-1000-/150601711056?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item23108fbdd0 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kawasaki-GTR1000-1986-2000-Workshop-Manual-GTR-ZG-1000-/150601711056?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item23108fbdd0)), on page 13-7 it covers the installation of the handlebars.
Bottom left hand corner of page 13-7 reads "The handlebar must fit squarely on the fork inner tube top without any clearance".
The associated pic on page 13-7 shows the top of the fork tubes flush with the top surface of the handlebars.
HTH
-
Bob and Paul - that's what I was looking for. I'll have to check again when I get home tonight. That was a little more obscure to find than I remember.
Thanks!
-
The top of the fork tubes stock, is 20mm over the tree.
-
:)
RHF87:
How difficult was it getting the fork tubes back UP through the triple clamps?
When I removed mine the right fork (right side of bike from saddle) pulled out as easy as pie. Now, the left fork was a real challenge to remove. I loosened every bolt and nut on "anything" that touched that fork leg and it was really difficult to remove. I finally had to put a screw driver in the "slots: of the triple clamp to afford enough "clearance" for the fork leg to come out. A lot more effort to remove the left fork.
So, that being said, I'm concerned about the amount of "force/effort" necessary to re-install the forks. Any tips? The fairing is still in place and although a tight fit, I'm pretty sure I can reach the upper and lower triple clamp bolts and nuts for tightening. But, again, any tips about re-installing would be appreciated.
Take care and ride safe,
-
Bob,
I've removed/ installed forks in a number of bikes, and often need to use a screwdriver as you describe to spread the triple clamp enough to get the forks in or out as you've described. During the install, you can tap a screwdriver or other wedge-shaped object into the slot just far enough to allow the fork tube to slide into the triple clamp. You may need to remove the bolts to do this. You shouldn't need to spread the clamp very far to get the tube back in. HTH,
-
Mine came out and went back in with little effort. With all bolts loose, they did not fall out, but would stay in place. Keep in mind that this bike is an '87 so it has the cross over tube for the air forks. There are also little hose clamps that are just above it to keep it from moving. A little light twisting was necessary to get them to move. Perhaps you have something tweaked is my first thought. Maybe loosen the steering bearing to see what impact that has. Maybe the steering bearing is worn and causes the alignment to be off.
-
:)
RFH87:
Mines an '86, so it has the cross-over air/tube piece also. How did you align the tube to the hole in the upper part of the forks?
I've spread the triple clamps a little; I don't think it "held", so may have to use a screw driver during the re-install. I had thought about the alignment of the forks to the air/tube previously and forgot to mention it.
Thanks for any tips,
-
If you are asking the about the orientation off the vent hole in the chrome tube, I faced them rearwards. I would think this would let the oil drain from the cross over tube when it is parked which may be a good thing. Maybe it doesn't really matter.
I put mine back together last night. I repainted the handle bar arms after tapping the tubes flush to the top of the base of the arms by using a nice block of steel.
-
If you are asking the about the orientation off the vent hole in the chrome tube, I faced them rearwards. I would think this would let the oil drain from the cross over tube when it is parked which may be a good thing. Maybe it doesn't really matter.
I put mine back together last night. I repainted the handle bar arms after tapping the tubes flush to the top of the base of the arms by using a nice block of steel.
hole orientation does not matter, just as long as it's located centered between the 2 o rings on the crossover yoke.
The Oil level lives well below that point, the area in the yoke is so minimal that any oil splashing(?) will not effect anything, as its merely a thin film zone anyways.
I have never found oil inthe crossover tube upon removal of either my 86 or 88.
The crossover is just for air pressure equalization.
I have installed progressive springs from Murph's, when you do that, you do NOT add air, this in result adds longevity to the seals now, that they no longer have air pressure in there trying to escape. They work as normal forks fromthat point. Just tossin that out there fer y'all....
-
:)
Thanks, MOB. I thought, perhaps, the "cross-over tube" had to center on the holes in the fork tubes. From what I gather as long as the fork tube holes lie in the middle of the "cross-over tube bracket" (up/down orientation) everything is ok.
Thanks again,