Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: frank 0 on October 04, 2011, 12:10:00 PM
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While unscrewing the 3 bolts that keep the left handlebar on the upper fork holder plate, one of them sheared off leaving 2/3 of the thread in the plate, flush with the surface. To drill the remains out of the plate I wonder if it is feasable tot remove the holder plate from the bike for easier acces.
Model 2008. The other bolts were all damaged, probably overtightened.
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I would order a new one. Sounds like the threads on the other side are probably compromised also. You could take the upper clamp off, and have it fixed at at shop with a milling machine, but You could get a new one for that kind of money.
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I think all you need to do is loosen the upper fork clamps and remove the steering stem top nut (assuming it hasn't fallen off already). But then again, I haven't stayed in a Holiday Inn Express lately either. I don't have my manual handy unfortunately. I was kind of hoping someone more technical than me would chime in here first.
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I would try grinding a slot with a Dremel tool and then back it out with a screw driver as long as it isn't wedged in. Or there are always Easy outs.
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You have a broken bolt in the top triple clamp. Someone handy can get the broken piece of bolt out using an easy out. It might be able to be done w/o removing the triple clamp but it would be easier to do in a drill press or milling machine. Sounds like someone did get carried away with the torque on those bolts. Anyway its not that major of a problem-someone with the experience can do it. Where are you located? Mark
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Possibly Belgium?
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I have wondered if the threads into that aluminum triple clamp are even needed. There is some clearance below the clamp, possibly enough to put a nice strong steel washer and locknut. Using a 10.9 bolt and nut, that would seem to be stronger than original.
(okay you techno-wizards, flame away!)
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Yes, you can remove the top triple clamp. Remove both handlebars, remove the bolts clamping the top triple clamp onto each fork, then remove the cable retainers, and finally remove the large bolt in the center of the triple clamp. Once the triple clamp is free you can lift it away from the bike but you will have to remove the ignition switch to move it very far; the ignition switch is held in with tamper- resistant bolts that will have to be drilled out.
Once the triple clamp is off the bike, you will probably either have to drill, thread and insert some type of sleeve in the existing hole (we use Heli- Coils typically in the US but many other types are available). The fastener is almost certainly seized in the hole and is probably not removable short of drilling it oversize and then bushing it back down.
As an aside, if a bolt head breaks off while being threaded in the shaft can usually be removed from the hole because once the head is removed, all tension is removed from the shaft. On the other side of the coin, a bolt that breaks on the way out is almost always because the threads have seized in the hole and it is not going to come out by being unthreaded using any driving means (a slot and screwdriver, an Easy-Out, a shank tool, etc.) because the shaft already broke from excessive force due to being seized and whatever is applied to that same shaft will simply break it again further down.
As someone already mentioned, it may be possible to drill a clear hole in the triple clamp and then use a nut on the bottom and a longer bolt provided there is enough room and you can get a wrench on the nut once the triple clamp is back on the bike.
Best of luck.
Brian
While unscrewing the 3 bolts that keep the left handlebar on the upper fork holder plate, one of them sheared off leaving 2/3 of the thread in the plate, flush with the surface. To drill the remains out of the plate I wonder if it is feasable tot remove the holder plate from the bike for easier acces.
Model 2008. The other bolts were all damaged, probably overtightened.
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Most people would call that part the upper triple clamp; Kawasaki calls it the Steering Stem Head. What-eva. There are a couple of concerns removing it:
1. The ignition switch will come with it, so you need to disconnect the wires to it
2. The loss of support from removing it
Number 1 is no biggie (the fact that there are wires involved would make me disconnect the battery, but the service manual doesn't mention it). Number 2 is something to think about. If you just remove the Stem Head, the fork tubes would twist in the lower triple clamp due to the weight of the bike, which might be a problem. The manual says to remove the front wheel, and that would certainly be the best way to do it. You could also put a jack under the front of the engine and relieve most of the pressure. So, referencing the service manual:
1. Remove the left inner cover (the one directly below the grip). The manual says to remove the windshield to do it, but that's so you can remove one plastic rivet; I've sneaked that rivet out without removing the shield.
2. Remove the storage compartment cover. When you have it off, notice the 2 "tabs" at the front of the cover; those have to hook under the base when you put it back on.
3. Remove the front wheel, or take most of the weight off it. If this step is the least bit unclear to you, just remove the wheel. If you do, put some folded cardboard into the calipers to keep the pads retracted.
4. Remove the handlebar holders. Support the bars so that the brake and clutch master cylinder covers are close to parallel with the ground, otherwise you could leak brake fluid onto a painted surface. If you're worried about it (I always am), drape a sopping-wet towel over the fuel tank to protect it.
5. Remove the bolts holding the brake hoses to the Steering Stem Head.
6. Disconnect the connectors in the wiring to the ignition switch.
7. Open the clamp bolts at the far outside of the Steering Stem Head. They don't have to be removed, but they do have to be completely loose.
8. Remove the Steering Stem Head Bolt and washer (12mm hex driver)
9. Lift the Steering Stem Head away.
This would be a good time to inspect/lube/tighten the Steering Stem Bearings:
Tighten the steering stem nut with 55 N·m (5.6 kgf·m, 41ft·lb) of torque first, and loosen it a fraction of a turn until it turns lightly. Afterward tighten it again with specified torque using a steering stem nut wrench.
Special Tool - Steering Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100
Torque - Steering Stem Nut: 23 N·m (2.3 kgf·m, 17 ft·lb)
Torques:
Front Fork Clamp Bolts (Upper): 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)
Steering Stem Head Bolt: 108 N·m (11.0 kgf·m, 79.7 ft·lb)*
Handlebar Holder Bolts: 25 N·m (2.5 kgf·m, 18 ft·lb)**
Front Axle Nut: 127 N·m (13.0 kgf·m, 93.7 ft·lb)
Front Axle Clamp Bolts: 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 ft·lb)***
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts: 34 N·m (3.5 kgf·m, 25 ft·lb)
* - The manual doesn't mention it, but I noticed that the Stem Head Bolt on mine had threadlocker on it, so I used some on mine (Locktite blue, NOT RED!) 80 ft·lb is probably enough to persuade it to stay, but threadlocker is cheap.
** - There's a tightening sequence for these bolts; the bolt farthest from the ignition switch on either side is bolt "1", the one next to it is "2" and the one to the rear is "3". Tighten in the sequence "1-2-3-1".
*** - Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two times to ensure even tightening.
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http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/49/Year/2008/ModelID/8056/Model/Concours/GroupID/383351/Group/Front_Fork_ (http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/49/Year/2008/ModelID/8056/Model/Concours/GroupID/383351/Group/Front_Fork_)
holder-fork upper---$170---ronayers.com
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This looks like the perfect job for the Quickcenter tool
I'm thinking of getting this myself
QuikCenter Broken Bolt Remover (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbDF9P1uDyk#)
http://www.qbaroo.com/quikcentercom/ (http://www.qbaroo.com/quikcentercom/)
Bill
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Thanks for all the replies, If I could choose I would replace the upper clamp but I'm afraid removing and reattaching ignition will be to dificult for me.
I have already made an attempt to drill the remains out but the material of the bolt makes it very hard to stay centered.
I will try to remove the clamp, if disconnecting the wiring is to difficult I will drill out the bolt with the clamp on the bike and replace it by a longer one with locknut.
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Probably the culprit is putting a steel bolt into an aluminum part without any kind of anti-seize. The properties of the two different metals will cause rapid corrosion between the two. That and factor in a cast Aluminum that a little soft and the threads will strip when removing the bolts.
When I had my bars off to put my risers in, I used a little Anti-Seize on the threads to help prevent such a thing. Matter of fact, every bolt I have removed I have re-assembled with some. It will actually help the bolt stay tighter (because the bolt will be tight when the head of the bolt compresses against the part, not when the threads bind in the hole.
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If the bolt is broken off and there is not a nut on the other side than it is no longer tight iin the hole. You should be able to get a center punch and a small hammer and work it out,
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Removing the triple clamp from the bike was surprisingly easy. Drilling out the remains of the bolt was very hard. It took me 30 minutes with a cobalt drill. I will put a front fork clamp bolt with locknut to replace the original, same appearance.
I am very happy with this solution and thank all the posters.
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No problem; just hope I/we helped!
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Ok sorry for long title. What size is the hex key which is in middle of triple clamp?
Trying to get to the steering stem nut. I got the bars dangling. Fork pinch bolts loose but do not have a hex key large enough for that center cap ugh
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Ok sorry for long title. What size is the hex key which is in middle of triple clamp?
Trying to get to the steering stem nut. I got the bars dangling. Fork pinch bolts loose but do not have a hex key large enough for that center cap ugh
Earlier (in what is now this thread) someone mentions 12mm hex. And that is pretty dern large. Is that the same thing you are looking for?
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I think so maxtog, thanks. Off to harbor freight I go lol