Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: RedBombardier on August 16, 2011, 11:52:14 AM
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I'm just wondering... does anyone besides me have trouble with the rear brake pedal? Over the winter I had major surgery on my leg and now I find it difficult ti turn my toes inward to push down on the pedal. I saw on the other board a thread where someone was having the same problem but can not find anything here. Of course before my surgery, I did not even notice how far inward the pedal is. Also, I have moved the thing up down and everywhere in between. Thanks guys, I really would appreciate any help.
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Now that you mention it I do have to kind of twist my foot to get my toes on the pedal. I hardly ever use it though so it's not a big deal.
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There is an adjustable one made for the zx14 it may fit the Concours.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m656&item=190447634496&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D2106508110772954770 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m656&item=190447634496&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D2106508110772954770)
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There is an adjustable one made for the zx14 it may fit the Concours.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m656&item=190447634496&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D2106508110772954770 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m656&item=190447634496&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D2106508110772954770)
Well for starters, I am going to contact that guy... Thanks a bunch. You know, I never really noticed the "twist" of the foot before. I'm sure I'm not the only one. Anyway, I do not use the rear brake all that much anyway, especially now. I would like to if I want to, though. :)
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I rarely use it and when I have, I have not noticed any improvement in stopping distance. If I try using just the rear brake, it doesn't seem to do much of anything to stop the bike.
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Rear brake = convenient device to hold the motorcycle on a hill while starting.
But if you have linked brakes, I don't see the point in applying any more rear brake for stopping purposes. I don't use the rear brake on a sportbike. I would probably use the rear brake on my Concours if it didn't have linked brakes.
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I use both brakes all the time. I paid for both, I want both, but that's me. I'm funny like that.
Anyway, to the OP, I changed the spelling of 'petal' to 'pedal'. I couldn't stand it anymore. Images of flowers on a C14 kept coming to mind.
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I rarely use it and when I have, I have not noticed any improvement in stopping distance. If I try using just the rear brake, it doesn't seem to do much of anything to stop the bike.
I, too, almost never use the rear brake (unless you count that it is linked to the front now).
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I use both brakes all the time. I paid for both, I want both, but that's me. I'm funny like that.
Anyway, to the OP, I changed the spelling of 'petal' to 'pedal'. I couldn't stand it anymore. Images of flowers on a C14 kept coming to mind.
:rotflmao:
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Thanks for changing the spelling VirginiaJim. I was going to make a joke about how if you're pushing on a petal, of course you won't get any stopping power, but I, never mind ...
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I use both brakes all the time. I paid for both, I want both, but that's me. I'm funny like that.
Anyway, to the OP, I changed the spelling of 'petal' to 'pedal'. I couldn't stand it anymore. Images of flowers on a C14 kept coming to mind.
I have been through that phase myself, but it went away after I retook my regular dosis of prozac (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-fc/smoke.gif) (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)
To the OP, I completely agree with your findings. I also tend to use both front and rear brakes, for the simple reason that it will stop me in a shorter distance, which is what we have them for... :o
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I use both brakes all the time. I paid for both, I want both, but that's me. I'm funny like that.
I must be funny like that too. But mostly I use both because I like to keep my muscle memory fresh for when I ride another bike.
Anyway, I had that issue with the stock pedal and commented about it, and my solution, in the former forum, may it rest in peace. I simply bought a set of slip-on race pedals from Auto Zone and used the screw-tight brackets it comes with to atach to the stocker. It makes the stock pedal wider and larger, and also raises it a half-inch, so it begins to activate with less downward force. It works for me.
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It's surprising to me how many guys don't use the rear brake, to each their own I guess.
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SeaLevel, I would be afraid that big brake pedal would catch on the ground in a corner.
Have you leaned it over to see if it touches before the peg feeler?
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SeaLevel, I would be afraid that big brake pedal would catch on the ground in a corner.
Have you leaned it over to see if it touches before the peg feeler?
The peg feeler is lower and sticks out further than the brake pad. It hasn't scraped the ground yet. If it should, the worst that would happen is that the brake pad cover I put on would break off from the stock pedal.
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I use both brakes all the time. I paid for both, I want both, but that's me. I'm funny like that.
Anyway, to the OP, I changed the spelling of 'petal' to 'pedal'. I couldn't stand it anymore. Images of flowers on a C14 kept coming to mind.
Thanks, I just woke up. I do know the difference. :)
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It's surprising to me how many guys don't use the rear brake, to each their own I guess.
Well, I know there are some good uses for it, but I was actually trained to NOT use the rear braket, for safety. The premise was to force me to think of the front brake as all important, since the rear contributes so little to stopping (especially to hard/panic stopping) and if it were used too much, especially while not going straight, it could be disastrous.
12 years later, I am still stuck in that mode. And now I figure with linked brakes that cannot be unlinked, ABS, and traction control, there is no reason to unlearn it.
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In my unprofessional but highly experienced opinion, you were trained incorrectly, Max.
But I will agree that on the Kawi system, it's pretty much a moot point. ;D
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In my unprofessional but highly experienced opinion, you were trained incorrectly, Max.
But I will agree that on the Kawi system, it's pretty much a moot point. ;D
I'd have to agree, on both counts. Every MC class that I've ever taken teaches using both brakes. I use both equally. Of course the front brake supplies the most stopping power hands down but the rear has it's place too. I use it to set up corners all the time, either trail braking or just to scrub off a lil speed before entering the corner.
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Well, I know there are some good uses for it, but I was actually trained to NOT use the rear braket, for safety. The premise was to force me to think of the front brake as all important, since the rear contributes so little to stopping (especially to hard/panic stopping) and if it were used too much, especially while not going straight, it could be disastrous.
12 years later, I am still stuck in that mode. And now I figure with linked brakes that cannot be unlinked, ABS, and traction control, there is no reason to unlearn it.
Me too, on the track. But a supersport on clean dry pavement will do a stoppie before the front will slide out, meaning the front brake can provide up to 100% of the braking force - and any application of the rear will reduce the net braking power as the front has to be let up sufficiently to keep adequate traction on the rear.
MSF is right - most motorcycles OTHER than supersports cannot provide 100% of the braking power to the front. And for that matter neither can a supersport on a wet or slick road therefore both brakes must be used to maximize power.
I think I've asked before in the other forum and was answered that the C14 will slide out on the front before doing a stoppie (I wouldn't know with the ABS and traction control) due to its weight. So yes the rear brake has to be used. Evertime I've tried to use it I just get this nasty pulsating interaction with the rear brake proportioner so I've quit. I've had the ABS kick in the rear on hard stops with no rear brake application so I can only assume the rear bias is more than optimal to begin with.
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Soooo... do you use your front brake on a slooooow turn in a parking lot with your handlebars full locked?
Great article about brake usage here... LOL!!!
http://www.sportrider.com/riding_tips/146_1001_using_rear_brake/index.html (http://www.sportrider.com/riding_tips/146_1001_using_rear_brake/index.html)
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Only once. That was painful.
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Soooo... do you use your front brake on a slooooow turn in a parking lot with your handlebars full locked?
On the C14 ABS you do, whether you want to or not, assuming you need braking at all. Of course, it's best to not need any braking, however I have found that if I use the rear brake pedal for speed control when making those slow parking lot turns, even though one of the front brakes is also automatically being applied, it doesn't have that tendency to dump like a conventional braking system would using the front brakes. Nicely balanced, really, and if you feel the bike trying to fall over, straightening the turn a little and adding a touch of power stands it right back up.
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I love the C14 ABS, linked brakes, ECO and traction control! (almost as much as KiPass)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/iconhammer.gif)
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On the C14 ABS with traction control you do, whether you want to or not, assuming you need braking at all. Of course, it's best to not need any braking, however I have found that if I use the rear brake pedal for speed control when making those slow parking lot turns, even though one of the front brakes is also automatically being applied, it doesn't have that tendency to dump like a conventional braking system would using the front brakes. Nicely balanced, really, and if you feel the bike trying to fall over, straightening the turn a little and adding a touch of power stands it right back up.
Fixed it for you. Some have a '08/'09 ABS without those pesky linked brakes.
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Fixed it for you. Some have a '08/'09 ABS without those pesky linked brakes.
Thankee.
I'm still on the fence a bit on the linked brakes, but the more I ride with them, the more I like them.
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Thankee.
I'm still on the fence a bit on the linked brakes, but the more I ride with them, the more I like them.
I've never ridden a bike with them, I'd like to though.
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I think I've asked before in the other forum and was answered that the C14 will slide out on the front before doing a stoppie (I wouldn't know with the ABS and traction control) due to its weight. So yes the rear brake has to be used.
That is kinda part of my point. On my 2011 (ABS/TC), there is no way to NOT use the rear brake, since they are linked. :)
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Soooo... do you use your front brake on a slooooow turn in a parking lot with your handlebars full locked?
Just like my previous post- on a 2010/2011 Concours, you have no choice. It doesn't matter which brake you use, you will *always* be using both. Of course, the balance is different depending on which you are pressing and what mode you are in (heavy or moderate linking).
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I'd have to agree, on both counts. Every MC class that I've ever taken teaches using both brakes. I use both equally. Of course the front brake supplies the most stopping power hands down but the rear has it's place too. I use it to set up corners all the time, either trail braking or just to scrub off a lil speed before entering the corner.
This is how I was trained back in the stone ages. I use the back to set up for turns and scrub speed a little when needed. THe front has the stopping power. Back in the days of Triples and Z-1's the back brake was used to bring the front end back down. You used to have to hang over the front end to get a good launch on a triple and it did not matter what size it was.
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Quoting maxtog, "Well, I know there are some good uses for it, but I was actually trained to NOT use the rear brake, for safety." Whoever trained you didn't know much and contributed to the "blind leading the blind" axiom. I started riding motorcycles when I was 14 and am still riding at 70. For all of those 56 years it has been both on the street and in the dirt. When I started there were no dirt bikes, you created a dirt bike by modifying a street bike. My first was a '55 BSA Gold Star. I still ride my far more modern thumper in the mountains and one of my street bikes whenever I have someplace to go. I have racked up beau-coup miles and each and every one of them included use of both brakes. I find it amazing that so many of you think that use of the rear brake is a superfluous effort. The mention of using the rear for better control at parking lot speeds is a perfect example of useful rear only use. There are numerous situations where a proper modulation of both brakes makes for a far more pleasant and much safer riding experience. My C14 is an '09 model with ABS. The first time I rode it I realized that the rear brake was just about useless at parking lot speed as it had no feel at the lever. I solved that problem by removing the return spring that attaches to the pedal itself. This spring is not necessary as the return spring in the master cylinder is plenty strong enough to return the pedal to its normal position. With the external spring removed the lever pressure could be discerned with the foot and I then knew how much brake I was applying. I strongly suggest that this unnecessary and potentially dangerous spring be removed so the rider can tell how much pressure he is applying with the foot. Try it, if you disagree you can always put the damn thing back on the bike.
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Bud
My 2008 rear brake was almost dead .. then I bled both of the rear calipers drain screws .. the the rear brake became the un dead (Still mostly dead) .. but at least a little better than pre bleed.
Thanks for the idea on the spring, I plan to check it out when I have the time.
Brent
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Quoting maxtog, "Well, I know there are some good uses for it, but I was actually trained to NOT use the rear brake, for safety." Whoever trained you didn't know much and contributed to the "blind leading the blind" axiom. I started riding motorcycles when I was 14 and am still riding at 70. For all of those 56 years it has been both on the street and in the dirt. When I started there were no dirt bikes, you created a dirt bike by modifying a street bike. My first was a '55 BSA Gold Star. I still ride my far more modern thumper in the mountains and one of my street bikes whenever I have someplace to go. I have racked up beau-coup miles and each and every one of them included use of both brakes. I find it amazing that so many of you think that use of the rear brake is a superfluous effort. The mention of using the rear for better control at parking lot speeds is a perfect example of useful rear only use. There are numerous situations where a proper modulation of both brakes makes for a far more pleasant and much safer riding experience. My C14 is an '09 model with ABS. The first time I rode it I realized that the rear brake was just about useless at parking lot speed as it had no feel at the lever. I solved that problem by removing the return spring that attaches to the pedal itself. This spring is not necessary as the return spring in the master cylinder is plenty strong enough to return the pedal to its normal position. With the external spring removed the lever pressure could be discerned with the foot and I then knew how much brake I was applying. I strongly suggest that this unnecessary and potentially dangerous spring be removed so the rider can tell how much pressure he is applying with the foot. Try it, if you disagree you can always put the damn thing back on the bike.
Whoever the trainer was is one unsafe mo-fo that misses out on 10-15% of his/her bike's braking abilities geez (http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j180/stevewfl/avatars/badteeth.gif)
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With the external spring removed the lever pressure could be discerned with the foot and I then knew how much brake I was applying. I strongly suggest that this unnecessary and potentially dangerous spring be removed so the rider can tell how much pressure he is applying with the foot. Try it, if you disagree you can always put the damn thing back on the bike.
Bud, would you mind posting a picture or something about this spring? I am ignorant (I don't know what spring you mean) and lazy (I could go to the parking and look for it ;D).
Thanks in advance!
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Sorry Martin, you're just going to have to get off your lazy ass and go out and look for it. I just got up off mine to go out to my shop to verify my memory of the spring's exact location. In order to take a picture of the spring I would need to put it back on my bike. That is not going to happen because the brake pedal must be removed to remove or replace the spring. It's behind the brake pedal. There are two springs, one is very small and operates the brake light switch and the one in question is much larger and is a brake pedal return spring. Because of it, you have to apply so much pressure with your foot that you cannot tell when the brake is actually being applied to the caliper and rotor. Because of this I damn near tipped the bike over in a parking lot at less than walking speed because I could not properly modulate the pressure being applied to the brake due to the lack of feel. This happened when the bike was less than an hour in my possession and that damn spring was removed within an hour of my arriving home. It's easy to see and not at all difficult to remove or replace. I am living proof that any ass can do it.
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Since starting riding in 1965 my 2011 Connie is the first bike I have had with ABS or linked brakes. All my earlier experience has trained me to use both brakes and I would be hard pressed now to rely only on the front. I have been in numerous situations where using the front brake only would be bad news, like going down a step incline with a turn at the bottom on a wet or slippery surface. So far I like the brakes on the Connie.
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Sorry Martin, you're just going to have to get off your lazy ass and go out and look for it. I just got up off mine to go out to my shop to verify my memory of the spring's exact location. In order to take a picture of the spring I would need to put it back on my bike. That is not going to happen because the brake pedal must be removed to remove or replace the spring. It's behind the brake pedal. There are two springs, one is very small and operates the brake light switch and the one in question is much larger and is a brake pedal return spring. Because of it, you have to apply so much pressure with your foot that you cannot tell when the brake is actually being applied to the caliper and rotor. Because of this I damn near tipped the bike over in a parking lot at less than walking speed because I could not properly modulate the pressure being applied to the brake due to the lack of feel. This happened when the bike was less than an hour in my possession and that damn spring was removed within an hour of my arriving home. It's easy to see and not at all difficult to remove or replace. I am living proof that any ass can do it.
You're a funny guy Bud, I like that. :chugbeer:
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Sorry Martin, you're just going to have to get off your lazy ass and go out and look for it.
fair enough... (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-angry020.gif) (http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php)
;)
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That is kinda part of my point. On my 2011 (ABS/TC), there is no way to NOT use the rear brake, since they are linked. :)
Actually not 100% true, from what I have read, there is NO linking of the brakes below 12mph and I believe this is controlled by the ECU (Which leads to the questin of can it be hacked and programmed to NOT link brakes at all)
I've used my rear in slow parking lot maneuvers without an issue, and I prefer to use both in a hard stop (it's how I was trained) but given the nasty "fluctuations" that the 10+ lever and pedals will experience when both are actuated hard, I find myself only using the front in order to avoid any unnecessary jerking motions.... (IMHO as much as I love my 2010 C-14, I HATE the brakes....)
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FWIW....
I religiously use both brakes on the street (as practice for that panic stop I'm gonna' have to make). Just good habit.
At very low speed (parking lot, and full lock maneuvers) I use rear only.
Sometimes to just scrub some wee speed, I'll feather the rear. I like the C14 not so powerful rear brake.
On track on my supermoto...
I can back it in quite nicely w/out rear brake. I've recently taken to riding it more with no rear brake under hard braking, so I tend to brake more (and harder) with the front, since the rear is sticking a little more. I noticed with less front brake action, and more rear applied, the bike wanted to get way more sideways and was less controllable. Worse if I added more front brake. On the same bike I would ride the same corner, no rear, and could actually slow harder/faster, and keep the rear more under control.
I'm gonna' have to work more on no rear brake on the track.
On my TTR125 indoor bike, I can rotate the dog **** out of it, and the rear helps a lot as there is no slipper in that bike, and I get chatter out of the rear if I hamfist the clutch. Application of rear brake seems to lessen than.
YMMV,
Barry
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I rarely use it and when I have, I have not noticed any improvement in stopping distance. If I try using just the rear brake, it doesn't seem to do much of anything to stop the bike.
Funny I have been considering starting a thread of this nature as my rear is useless except, kinda, for weight shifting-but to experiment with even low speed-actual stopping power does not exist.
Mike
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I could comment on that as many things come to mind but as it's early morning I may wait a bit before I do....
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I could comment on that as many things come to mind but as it's early morning I may wait a bit before I do....
Oh come on Jim, why wait? Carpe diem!
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I dont feel like my rear brake is dead, but feels like an on/off switch. One thing that will help the rear brake is some LESS powerful brake pads. No, I have not lost it (anymore than usual).
The stock pads are "HH" rated. If you swap to a set of "GG" pads, they offer more range between off and abs kicking in, or lock-up. Galfer "GG" organic pads work well, but leave a lot of dust. DP Pads work better and leave less dust. Then, remove the spring and you'll end up with something good.
I noticed my rear brake got worse when the local shop put the recall guard on. Notice how the two mounting screws for the rear brake mastercylinder have some play in them and if loose, the upper, or lower part of the mc will will move back in forth. Loosen these and set it up where the brake pedal will push straight up on the mc, not sideways.
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Here is a photo of the previously mentioned spring. I am a Motor Officer and naturally use a lot of rear brake by habit for slow speed movements. I immediately noticed the rear brake or should I say lack of rear brake engagement of the C14 vs the majority of other bikes I have ridden. I removed the spring and it was a HUGE improvement to me, hopefully there are no side effects. The rear brake pedal disengages fine without the spring. There are two springs, one is for the brake light engagement from the pedal, the other is the spring removed. The larger spring was removed. In the photo you can see it but it is not hooked around the shaft like the brake light switch spring. It can be removed without taking the brake pedal off with some pliers and a screwdriver in about 5 minutes. Re-assembly would be much easier with the pedal off.
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Here is a photo of the previously mentioned spring. I am a Motor Officer and naturally use a lot of rear brake by habit for slow speed movements. I immediately noticed the rear brake or should I say lack of rear brake engagement of the C14 vs the majority of other bikes I have ridden. I removed the spring and it was a HUGE improvement to me, hopefully there are no side effects. The rear brake pedal disengages fine without the spring. There are two springs, one is for the brake light engagement from the pedal, the other is the spring removed. The larger spring was removed. In the photo you can see it but it is not hooked around the shaft like the brake light switch spring. It can be removed without taking the brake pedal off with some pliers and a screwdriver in about 5 minutes. Re-assembly would be much easier with the pedal off.
a request, please. I would love to see a pic of your work bike, if its ok with the dept, etc.
If a person HAS to have a return spring on their brake pedal, there are better ways of doing that.
Fasstco sells a
brake return spring for dirt bikes. Originally developed for the JGR bikes. Anyway if you get the right one it will thread on the mc and allow adjustable tension on the return spring. We need th e8mm size for our c14's.
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I use both brakes all the time. I paid for both, I want both, but that's me. I'm funny like that.
Anyway, to the OP, I changed the spelling of 'petal' to 'pedal'. I couldn't stand it anymore. Images of flowers on a C14 kept coming to mind.
Jim, you should know that the words pedal, petal, peddle, and paddle are interchangeable on all forums and they all mean the same thing. :D
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I have been through that phase myself, but it went away after I retook my regular dosis of prozac
Dosis? ::)
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The peg feeler is lower and sticks out further than the brake pad.
I hope you have more than one.
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a request, please. I would love to see a pic of your work bike, if its ok with the dept, etc.
If a person HAS to have a return spring on their brake pedal, there are better ways of doing that.
Fasstco sells a
brake return spring for dirt bikes. Originally developed for the JGR bikes. Anyway if you get the right one it will thread on the mc and allow adjustable tension on the return spring. We need th e8mm size for our c14's.
It is a R1200RT shown in this thread: http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=95.30 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=95.30)
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Thanks for posting that. I love police bikes.
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Thanks for the brake pedal discussion, reminded me to go adjust mine down a bit, and the shifter too! :)
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Jim, you should know that the words pedal, petal, peddle, and paddle are interchangeable on all forums and they all mean the same thing. :D
Those words all have different meanings in the English language. What schools did you attend that taught they were interchangeable?
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Those words all have different meanings in the English language. What schools did you attend that taught they were interchangeable?
Government schools?
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Government schools?
I attended DOD schools where I was taught how to spell. I guess you could call them government schools....
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Apparently Jim missed the heavy dose of sarcasm in Z71's post?
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Sarcasm?
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I'm going to try removing that spring to get more feeling in the pedal. I've got Murphs extender pegs, and have moved the brake pedal down pretty much as far a possible. I still use the rear when stopping, since I ride my '02 as well and without the rear involved, I would never stop! Force of habit
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With most of my riding experience coming from the dirt ... i use the rear brake all the time.
My buddys think its funny when i first start out on the DRz after riding the C14 a bunch ... i over apply the rear and lock it up.
to which i hear them all yelling "no ABS on that one" :P
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Bit 'o trivia
According to one of the most popular bike magazines the bike with the shortest stopping distance (as of a couple of years ago) was..........
Wait for it...............
The Honda '98-'99 Interceptor (came with linked brakes).
Bruce
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I'm going to try removing that spring to get more feeling in the pedal. I've got Murphs extender pegs, and have moved the brake pedal down pretty much as far a possible. I still use the rear when stopping, since I ride my '02 as well and without the rear involved, I would never stop! Force of habit
I did the same adjustment and simply could not ride it that way. I put it back to the stock position and just moved my foot when rear braking. Eventually I just put the stock pegs back on as I have Ronnie's pegs for extended riding.
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What schools did you attend that taught they were interchangeable?
You might want to ask that question of those who have problems with breaks on their cars, who grease the slip yolk on their pickup drive shafts, and who mount a wench on their truck's front bumper.
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You might want to ask that question of those who have problems with breaks on their cars, who grease the slip yolk on their pickup drive shafts, and who mount a wench on their truck's front bumper.
That wench would be Bambi?
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You might want to ask that question of those who have problems with breaks on their cars, who grease the slip yolk on their pickup drive shafts, and who mount a wench on their truck's front bumper.
Nothing wrong with mounting a wench on the truck's front bumper, or any other area of the truck for that matter. :P
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Is a wabbit driving the truck?
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You might want to ask that question of those who have problems with breaks on their cars, who grease the slip yolk on their pickup drive shafts, and who mount a wench on their truck's front bumper.
And that drives me just as crazy. I don't think my wife would like a wench on the front of my truck.
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And that drives me just as crazy. I don't think my wife would like a wench on the front of my truck.
She doesn't swing that way eh Jim? Well the wench ain't for her now is it? lol
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According to what I've read, the linked brakes don't always activate BOTH brakes in all cases. With the linked brake switch set for standard linked brakes, a light application of the rear brake should not activate the front at all. However, the front always activates the rear. With the switch set on the higher combined setting, both always activate together.
(sorry - I forget what the setting is called to switch between linked brake modes... LOL)
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^^^^
You forgot to mention the rear brake is useless!
Mike 08
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She doesn't swing that way eh Jim? Well the wench ain't for her now is it? lol
Twit!
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I did the same adjustment and simply could not ride it that way. I put it back to the stock position and just moved my foot when rear braking. Eventually I just put the stock pegs back on as I have Ronnie's pegs for extended riding.
I think the stock pads, rated "HH", are simply too grippy to give good feel. Galfer "GG" carbon pads give more feel although they run dirty. DP sinetered pads "GG" I believe, are my favorite yet and improve feel a lot.
Notice how much play the brake pedal and linkage has. Especially the clevis. In reality, it takes very little pedal movement to lock the brake if you eliminate the play in the linkage.