Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: wally_games on August 08, 2011, 12:21:36 PM
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I thought that there was a thread that discussed loose header bolt nuts, but now I can't find it. I don't think the tread started out on that subject, but took a detour. Anyone got the link?
Anyway, after reading that there were issues with loose header bolt nuts, I reached in with a small 1/4" drive socket and checked the nut nearest the right side of the bike. Low and behold, it was pretty loose. Without pulling any bodywork, I was able to get to five of the eight nuts and tighten them all. I guess I'll try to work my way into the rest of them this weekend when I've got more time.
I've got an '11 with 3,400 miles in just over four months.
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Yup, they tend to get loose and require a re-tightening after the copper crush gasket between the header and head has heated and seated. With a collection of socket drive extensions and swivel joints you can, with patience, retorque them without pulling it apart.
It should be good for a very extended period after they've been retorqued.
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Here you go:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=309.0 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=309.0)
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1830.msg20383#msg20383 (http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1830.msg20383#msg20383)
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2800 miles and I have a little ticking when mine is cold but stops when it gets warmed up, I'll make it my next thing to do along with the next oil change.
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I thought I was able to tighten all of mine with various combinations of extensions and universals but I was wrong. After taking off the body work and lowering the radiator I found that several were still loose. I believe that some combinations of extensions and universal at awkward angles were binding and giving a false impression of tightness. It is easy to move the radiator out of the way without disconnecting any hoses, just remove three bolts.
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I thought I was able to tighten all of mine with various combinations of extensions and universals but I was wrong. After taking off the body work and lowering the radiator I found that several were still loose. I believe that some combinations of extensions and universal at awkward angles were binding and giving a false impression of tightness. It is easy to move the radiator out of the way without disconnecting any hoses, just remove three bolts.
AFTER you remove bodywork. :stirpot: That's the part that scrares me, having not done it before.
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Maybe because I have small hands I was able to get to all eight with a small 1/4" drive with a no. 12 socket without removing the side panels. Yes, all needed to be tighten. I have 2300 miles on the bike.
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Maybe because I have small hands I was able to get to all eight with a small 1/4" drive with a no. 12 socket without removing the side panels. Yes, all needed to be tighten. I have 2300 miles on the bike.
I thought that I DID have small hands! :o Can't get to the centermost nuts.
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I read your thread and decided to go and check mine on my new 2011 with 2500 miles on it. For sure they were all loose. I was able to get to six of the eight pretty easily. After numerous attempts to get to the center 2 I figured out how to get my hand and arm in there so I could get a single click with a 1/4" ratchet. Though they are not torqued to spec they are tight. Maybe I should also say small hands and thin wrists is what it takes.