Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Dade22 on May 14, 2011, 12:59:10 PM
-
Has any one used the castrol rs racing 4t oil? Not trying to start an oil thread, just looking to see if anyone has used it and their thoughts. I found a local shop that has it just under 8 dollars. Cheeper than the mobil 1 4t.
Thanks.
Dade22
-
I use the Mobil 1 4t
-
At under $8, you can assume that it is group III oil, not synthetic. If you are going to go group III, might as well save your $ and get Rotella.
-
i am a castrol fan as well, i have used it in all my cars and trucks with out fail.
-
Hope I'm not wrong on this, but racing oil does not have the additives that help hold dirt in suspension so the filter can do it's thing. These oils are designed for, racing, and who changes the oil after every ride. I've always read that you should not use racing oil under normal conditions.
-
Hope I'm not wrong on this, but racing oil does not have the additives that help hold dirt in suspension so the filter can do it's thing. These oils are designed for, racing, and who changes the oil after every ride. I've always read that you should not use racing oil under normal conditions.
Never heard of any damn such thing. And I race motocross. Honda just says 10W/40.
Any oil holds dirt in suspension, although there shouldn't be any clots of it floating around in there. It's mainly the byproducts of combustion plus wear from the clutch plates that shows up in used oil.
-
I think by nature racing oil is designed to protect an engine for a race and then it's changed. Most of us don't change oil after every ride. Also racing engines don't have catalytic converters and the higher amounts of zinc and moly probably won't help the CAT. Besides, why pay the higher price, use what the Mfgr. recommends.
-
Yes Phil that is correct. Racing oils are usually missing the detergent package that would go into a normal street vehicle oil. It would seem to be a good idea on the surface of it but regular street vehicle oil, for autos, motorcycles or industrial (and diesel) use is actually the better product for street use for exactly the reason you state.
Brian
Hope I'm not wrong on this, but racing oil does not have the additives that help hold dirt in suspension so the filter can do it's thing. These oils are designed for, racing, and who changes the oil after every ride. I've always read that you should not use racing oil under normal conditions.
-
It's design/intent is the exact same as Mobil 1 4T, I sometimes "like now" I'll mix in 2 quarts of the Castrol 20W50 RS 4T with the rest being Rotella T6. I kinda like to mix my oils and weights, kinda allows you to fine tune what you want. Castrol is good stuff, cant say that I have ever heard much of anything negative about it.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9021703&contentId=7040544 (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9021703&contentId=7040544)
-
I just got an oil sample back from the Mobil 1 4T I used for 4K miles. Oil held up just fine. I am now using the Castrol RS 4T and will run that for another 4K miles then pull another sample to see how they compare.
-
wow...more info than I asked for but a very interesting read. I had not seen the castrol mc oil before thats why I started this.
Is there a list of TRUE synthetic MC oil? I think I seen one on the old forum but cant remember. Everyone is going to have their favorite just looking now for the real synthetics now.
Thanks.
Dade22
-
At under $8, you can assume that it is group III oil, not synthetic. If you are going to go group III, might as well save your $ and get Rotella.
Why do you keep calling Group III oil NOT synthetic? Synthetic is a marketing term -- it doesn't mean anything. Grp III+ (RTS T6) oil has all the properties of PAO (GrpIV) and Ester (Grp V) All synthetic oils contain some amount of all three types, it is just how much of each in in the "synthetic" oil in question.
For instance -- Redline is predominately Grp V but also contain some PAO and Grp III too.
Amsoil is predominately Grp IV (PAO) but also contains some Grp III and Ester. It all depends on the blender. Why do you keep bringing this up? Each company determines the optimum combination of synthetic basestocks to meet their specifications -- END OF STORY !!
BTW, Rotella T6 is an isomerized slack wax Group III+ oil which is NOT your garden-variety Grp III synthetic oil, it is equivalent to any "synthetic" oil on the market and is sold in Europe as Shell Helix and is the Ferrari factory fill oil. If it is good enough for Ferrari engines, I think it can run in any engine up to and including Formula One engines.....
-
I think the debate is not over the legal term but the fact that the word 'synthetic' usually means man- made. It does not matter if something natural has the same spec.'s as the synthetic product, the very fact that it occurs naturally means it is not synthetic by definition.
I don't have dog in this fight, I am just stating what I think is the base point of the synthetic or not- synthetic argument.
Brian
Why do you keep calling Group III oil NOT synthetic? Synthetic is a marketing term -- it doesn't mean anything. Grp III+ (RTS T6) oil has all the properties of PAO (GrpIV) and Ester (Grp V) All synthetic oils contain some amount of all three types, it is just how much of each in in the "synthetic" oil in question.
<snip>
-
Im mixing a high quality Group III synthetic 5W40, with a high quality group III 20W50 synthetic.......it aint gonna hurt a thing, this isn't something I have just started doing. I did however run the crap Scamsoil at a pure 10W40, but I started mixing in the C14 with the excellent Mobil 1 4T 10W40 and 20W50. I have run Rotella 15W40 most the time in my last 3 bikes "and my current DR", but switched over to T6 early last year. The DR shifts incredible with the T6, and the C14 shifted wonderful with the T6......but I also love the results of adding a bit of 20W50 to the crankcase too. A couple big ole jugs of T6 goes a long way for 2 bikes, and buying a few quarts now and then of Castrol RS 20W50 doesn't break the bank either.
-
I like to change my oil and filter often.
when oil and filters are almost the same quality. I shop by price.
If a reputable company as large as CASTROL claims that their oil meets or exceeds manufacturers requirement for four stroke engines ,,,, Why isn't that good enough for your average rider?
Castrol four stroke Motorcycle oil sells for $ 4.67 at Wallmart plus 13% tax.
I almost never run more than 5000 kms or 3000 miles on an oil change and filter. If it looks dirty, I'll change it more often. My two cents. /size]
-
Bringing this back from dead in leiu of starting another thread containing the same stuff....
So, I just finished doing a clutch on a DR650, helping a local pal... the clutch was assembled incorrectly years ago, which caused the failure... it wasn't an oil issue....
He picked up Castrol Power RS Racing 4T 10W-40, and filters as Advance Auto had a big sale... well, he somehow got this all for $35 for 5 quarts AND a filter...
This interested me, and surprisingly the dude dropped off 5 quarts and filter to me today... sweet.
Now, I know this was an old thread, and reading all the responses it was clear nobody chose to read up on this specific oil, at least it appears that way to me....
This oil is noted as and sold as FULL SYNTHETIC motorcycle oil.
It is noted to be excellent in wet clutch engines,
It exceeds API Service SL, and JASO MA-2 specifications...
I'm not seeing anything wrong here with this oil, its not raising a red flag for me.... as I have ALWAYS used Castrol dino oils in ALL my bikes and vehicals since 1973, and have never seen an issue with those engines, many were disassembled and reassembled, and all clean as could be, with never a failure, I have to ask again now that this oil has been out for a long time, anybody here experienced an issue?
Being a fully synthetic oil, it will be the first time I have "drunk the koolaide" so to speak, but expect it to perform well, and last as long, if not longer, than a conventional oil.... which I always run to 4k miles minimum, with a filter swap every change...
We'll see....
-
Come on admit it -we all love oil threads, and would miss them terribly if we didn't have a new controversial oil thread topic to gore ad nauseam to death. Just think, this is Saturday night , and I am reading this new, although thoroughly discussed before, oil thread.
Well, there are plenty more where this came from, just search and you will have a lot of interesting reading material for days :)
Wow, now I am feeling better that I read the latest one.. I will wait with baited breath for the next one.
Yeek. I am on full "merge alert"
-
Oh well, so much for asking for some intellegent reporting of some one who actually has been using the oil noted in the original posting of this thread...
I was hoping to glean some bonafide info, and that's the only reason I resurected a thread that was 4 years old....
Guess I'll just carry on, and test it myself.... thanks. ::)
-
I also run the 75/90 in the drive. I don't remember finding a recommended weight in the owners manual though...
-
I also run the 75/90 in the drive. I don't remember finding a recommended weight in the owners manual though...
I use it because that's what BMW recommends for their final drive units, so it is on the shelf. Could be what Triumph uses in their FD's too, since they recommend Castrol for their engines.
Sorry MOB, wasn't trying to wreck your thread, but one thing always seems to lead to another, regardless of the topic. Hope someone who has recently used it will chime in here for you. tomp
-
Oh well, so much for asking for some intellegent reporting of some one who actually has been using the oil noted in the original posting of this thread...
I was hoping to glean some bonafide info, and that's the only reason I resurected a thread that was 4 years old....
Guess I'll just carry on, and test it myself.... thanks. ::)
I used the Castro oil in question for the last year/3200 miles in my C14, and the engine seems to be fine. It didn't burn any oil, didn't make any weird noises (except at start up, it has a rod knock, er , timing chain tensioner noise), and the earth continued rotating in it's normal orbit.
That said, I did just change it, and filled it with Mobil 1, just to see if the shift quality changed. So far, I haven't noticed any difference, but I've hardly ridden it since then.
-
I have been using the Castrol oil since my first oil change without any negative effect. Shifting seemed a little better but that could just be the bike getting broken in.
Alaska air is cool and dry everywhere except in the Southeast. Winter air works great in my dual turbo car.
-
I've been running the RS 4T 10w-40 in Ziggy since the 3rd oil change. Never used a drop and shifting does not degrade even after 7500 miles of riding. Not sure if the "Racing" in the name is meant to denote competition use only, but it seems to have worked well over the past 37k miles. Never had any issues with Castrol products, so have stuck with them for years.
-
Seems like some folks can't discern thendiference between racing stability, and longevity.. and think because its "racing" earmarked, it wont last.. I can tell yo from my past, racing, and riding, I could do a crapload of damage to a clutch and tranny, in the 24 hours race at Nelson Ledges back in the day.. oh, we ain't talking about 4 am wrecks.. just no engine blowups... which I witnessed about 8 times... in my quad.
In 8 hours you willmdefinatly see a degradation in oil, as far as a clutch goes, when you are trying to hold a 100 Mph course avereage
Don't make me elude to the sausage creature.. from hunter s. Thompson..
Mind you, we ran straight weight Castrol products from 1975 thru 1980 in these bikes, we bought it in 55 gal drums. Because there was no BETTER oil.
With that said, I have great confidence that the "free" oil I got for my assistance to a pal, will be above.and beyound any oil ever poured into this silly bike...
We'll.see. what their synth works out as...
For literary jusice..
http://www.latexnet.org/~csmith/sausage.html (http://www.latexnet.org/~csmith/sausage.html)
Live it.
Long live the memory, of this man.
-
Yes Phil that is correct. Racing oils are usually missing the detergent package that would go into a normal street vehicle oil. It would seem to be a good idea on the surface of it but regular street vehicle oil, for autos, motorcycles or industrial (and diesel) use is actually the better product for street use for exactly the reason you state.
Brian
I worked for Exxon Mobil for 10 years and never heard this,, then again i had never heard most of the stuff that most people believe about oil.. that's another story