Kawasaki Concours Forum
Mish mash => Open Forum => Topic started by: Mr. Green Genes on July 28, 2011, 08:37:58 PM
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Hopefully the link works.
Welding - I've thought of it, but haven't tried it yet. I think I can probably find a tab or 2 to try it out on.
Delboy's Garage, Plastic Welding panel lug repair. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7GRNvPSf7k#ws)
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I have never tried it on any of my bikes. I have had very good results with this method on my washing machine drain pump. My kids constantly leave change in their pockets and the the pump will chuck the change around untill it cracks the case.
+1 on wire ties, they work awesome as a filler.
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Bloody unbelievable! :goodpost:
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Shouldn't he have taken off all of the paint where he wanted the plastic to adhere?
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Some recent experience here.
Used the techniques from:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Plastics_repair_with_ABS_cement (http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Plastics_repair_with_ABS_cement)
Repair history pix:
https://www.ninja250.org/GeorgeRYoung (https://www.ninja250.org/GeorgeRYoung)
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I don't much think it matters when you're melting something together like that. He's using a black zip tie...
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Good Find, Thank you +1
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I can only take credit for having intelligent friends.
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I likey...!!! thanks for the link
I use a lot of ABS in making knife sheaths and gun holsters and other goodies... I have even made some nice "washers" using a hole saw....
I melts easily with the heat gun
I haven't given it a thought on repair though and I would think it would be a great "Welding stick" / filler instead of the wire ties...
I have a local plastics place I buy my sheets of ABS and get it in several thicknesses....I'm always having little slivers and pieces left over I chuck in the recycle bin or trash...I'll be keeping some more now for trying this method...
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Yes but that looks like a Suzuki.......
maybe a Bandit
Connie would never ever crack on me ,would she :stirpot:
good clip, have thought about it ,but now see it can be done
and it looks ez enough
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That's beef
Nice technique to know, I'm sure I'll be using that in the future.
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Couple of pointers to those thinking about this. Most plastic welding kits have a rheostat that will allow temp control on the iron. Different plastics, different temps or you risk making the plastic brittle. The reason he has to go to the lengths he is to reinforce is that he has very little penetration into the material. Just like metal welding the joint needs to be "V"d out to get penetration. Puting a spoon tip on helps with making a smooth joint and having a clean smooth tip helps a lot. A quick preheat with a heat gun can also help with getting good penetration. And finally that hot plastic causes serious burns if you get it stuck to your skin. Was welding a plastic water tank under a 5th wheel RV when I felt the need to push a sagging section back into place..... you will make no win choices very quickly.....
The real welding rods are easily available and having the right kind and size makes a difference.
But really with all the bonding agents available why bother. Try 2P 10 or one of the two part glues with the mixing nozzle. The glue used on ABS plumbing is quite aggressive and ugly yellow to boot. Prep, clean, glue.
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Well, I finally had the opportunity to try this on my NX650. I think it worked well. Time will tell.
The 1 thing to note is the screw-driver tip which the guy in the video has rigged to his soldering iron. I could not immediately find a soldering iron suitable for that particular modification so I cut a tip on my Chinese soldering gun to resemble a flat blade. It worked, but I am still on a quest for the prefect soldering iron. Being able to trowel the molten plastic is critical to us amateur plastic welders.