Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: Nosmo on July 26, 2011, 06:38:59 PM
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I pulled the fuel tank to do some projects and the f#@*ing petcock, which was NEW a very short time ago is leaking internally. After two rebuilds of the original (once with the unworkable K&L kit) and then replacing with an entire NEW OEM unit, I am F#@*ING DONE with the OEM valve. My tank is clean, and flushed about twice a year, no FOD in the valve, and yes, the spring has already been stretched. I am just tired of messing with it. I want the final solution. I have had the Bergmen manual conversion for several years, and I am habituated to turning it on and off as parts of my pre-flight and post-flight checklist, so that's not an issue.
I have a question for those who have installed Pingle units. Their website (and old COG files) tell me that their P/N 6211-CH is the one to get. However this unit has the fuel outlet pipe pointing inwards. It looks to me like the P/N 4211-CH would be a better fit on our bikes since the outlet pipe will angle back at 45 degrees and that looks like better alignment with the fuel hose to the carbs and also easier access to the hose clamp when removing/installing the tank. I am not seeing one that points straight back like the OEM unit.
Thoughts, opinions, experience with either one? Thanks in advance.
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Ok Nosmo,
I have the Pingel fuel valve and the part # I used were the 6211-CH valve & A1702C adaptor plate.
Check out my webshots album titled "Pingel Fuel Valve Install". The 6211 valve works great with the
inlet pointing in. I have had no issues with it at all. The 4211 valve will work as long as the thread size is still the same as the adaptor. Whatever makes you happy.
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The 4000 series points straight back.
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My install uses the same numbers as Jim ... that provides for a nice gentle loop to the carbs, no kinks and slight slack to allow access to the hose clamp when the tank is sligtly raised to remove. That gentle loop provides for differential vibration between tank and carbs that a straight shot will not accomodate (the shortest distance between two points has no tolerance for misalignment).
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New Pingel valve installed, plus I have the overflow tubes. This is a verry nice unit. I used the 4000-series, which in fact does point straight back in relation to the handle, not an angle like their web illustration shows. One thing to consider, which I had not thought of, is that the rear-facing outlet pipe will cover the mounting bolt, so if you ever need to remove the assembly, you'd have to unscrew the valve from the plate first. That would not be an issue with the recommended 6000-series valves. (Hhhmmmm....maybe that's why they recommend those?) I turned this one in the adapter plate threads to angle slightly anyway, so the outlet pipe clears the mounting bolts in case removal is needed in the future. Easy clamp access, good hose routing. Still plenty of room for the selector handle to swing OK. I like it.
Leak now, ya bitch! >:(
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Are you guys using the Vaccum series valves? $205.00 each? :o
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OK. Got it sorted out. $95.00 + adapter plate.........still :-\
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OK. Got it sorted out. $95.00 + adapter plate.........still :-\
The peace of mind + lack of fiddling/leaking/rebuilding is worth every penny.
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New Pingel valve installed, plus I have the overflow tubes. This is a verry nice unit. I used the 4000-series, which in fact does point straight back in relation to the handle, not an angle like their web illustration shows. One thing to consider, which I had not thought of, is that the rear-facing outlet pipe will cover the mounting bolt, so if you ever need to remove the assembly, you'd have to unscrew the valve from the plate first. That would not be an issue with the recommended 6000-series valves. (Hhhmmmm....maybe that's why they recommend those?) I turned this one in the adapter plate threads to angle slightly anyway, so the outlet pipe clears the mounting bolts in case removal is needed in the future. Easy clamp access, good hose routing. Still plenty of room for the selector handle to swing OK. I like it.
Leak now, ya bitch! >:(
Hey Nos,
Glad you got it figured out, and yes I guess thats why they recommend the 6000 series to have clearance on the mounting bolts. I have had my Pingel valve for a couple of years now
and I wish I had done this mod earlier. Remembering to turn it off is the only thing you need to remember but thats not that big a deal. I have gotten in the habit of reaching down and turning mine off when I get within a couple hundred yards of my destination, that way it burns a little fuel off before killing the bike and assures no fuel will go anywhere it doesn't belong.
Anyhow welcome to the Pingel family.
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Sorry for reviving an old thread, but what did ya'll use to enlarge the hole for the Pingel? I've got the 6211, but not installed yet. I'm a little worried about the install procedure. Thanks
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Just use a small rat-tail (round) file, but hold it so that is it cutting on the outstroke so it won't push filings into the tank. You're only removing a small amount to make a round area at the center of the slot to clear the Pingel body. Use a magnet to sweep around and get anything that might have entered. Flush a little with solvent or alcohol and get everything clean. This whole operation takes about 15 minutes by the way. Don't use an electric shop vac to suck stuff out of the tank, the motor may ignite remaining fuel vapors and blow up your vacuum. You'll like the Pingel.
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Sorry for reviving an old thread, but what did ya'll use to enlarge the hole for the Pingel? I've got the 6211, but not installed yet. I'm a little worried about the install procedure. Thanks
If you check out my webshots pages I have a section for the Pingel fuel valve install.