Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: WarEagleAlways2021 on March 16, 2022, 11:10:05 AM
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Hey-
I got my latest 2015 C14 in Sept. Rode it from Denver to Wichita and next morning it would not crank. Low Battery warning. Replaced battery. Been riding when I can. We have a community garage here, so they will not allow me to use a battery tender. Went a few weeks and went to ride two days ago. Low Battery, jumped off, rode the bike on the interstate for an hour. Got home, tried to crank- Low Battery warning. Took the battery to AutoZone and they said it shows GOOD and just needs charging. Charge it up? Replace battery? Alternator?
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Make sure all the connections are clean. Brush them with a wire brush even if they look ok. Then tighten all of them up. Get a good battery charger that differentiates between types of batteries. I use a Noco Genius 2 and have mine set to AGM. If yours is normal it needs to be set to normal lead acid. Also when the bike is running check the charge rate. Should be 14 something.
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Make sure all the connections are clean. Brush them with a wire brush even if they look ok. Then tighten all of them up. Get a good battery charger that differentiates between types of batteries. I use a Noco Genius 2 and have mine set to AGM. If yours is normal it needs to be set to normal lead acid. Also when the bike is running check the charge rate. Should be 14 something.
Hey- thanks! Will do. I believe AutoZone put it on a charger, but I bet it's a trickle charger. Will look into getting a Noco myself. Will check off all the boxes and clean up all the terminals. Visually looked clean, but will give everything a scuff.
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Hey- thanks! Will do. I believe AutoZone put it on a charger, but I bet it's a trickle charger. Will look into getting a Noco myself. Will check off all the boxes and clean up all the terminals. Visually looked clean, but will give everything a scuff.
Check (clean/tighten) the main frame grounds also. They are right near the battery compartment. The C14 is very picky about poor power connections. Also, if the garage is lit, you might be able to use a solar trickle charger, although it would be kinda theftable.
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As is most modern MCs these days....
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Thanks guys! Cleaned everything. So far so good. Will see how it goes today and tomorrow when I get it out.
Appreciate the 2 cents! Anyone know if there are any other members in the Wichita area? We are new here.
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Check (clean/tighten) the main frame grounds also. They are right near the battery compartment. The C14 is very picky about poor power connections. Also, if the garage is lit, you might be able to use a solar trickle charger, although it would be kinda theftable.
I went to the office and pleaded my case. It's very dark in the garages- VERY. They have a power outlet at each end near the garage doors and I asked if I could just park up against the wall by the door and keep the bike plugged in there. Without hesitation I was told no one can use the outlets. So, I gotta find a day every week to get the bike out and just get it charged up. I got it for work commuting as I go 55 miles each way, but not in some of the weather here. Just gonna have to be strategic, I suppose.
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I went to the office and pleaded my case. It's very dark in the garages- VERY. They have a power outlet at each end near the garage doors and I asked if I could just park up against the wall by the door and keep the bike plugged in there. Without hesitation I was told no one can use the outlets. So, I gotta find a day every week to get the bike out and just get it charged up. I got it for work commuting as I go 55 miles each way, but not in some of the weather here. Just gonna have to be strategic, I suppose.
You could get one of those lithium battery box 12 v things and perhaps attach that to a port to charge it every now and then, even if you don't ride it. Again, possible theft issue, but with long cords you could lock it in the pannier while it is attached...
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The battery should not be going flat when parked up for a few weeks. It sounds like you have a parasitic drain. Someone may have fitted one of those tracker modules or something similar, and that is draining the battery. You can test yourself if you have a multimeter, or find a competent motorcycle mechanic and get them to look it over.
My C14 draws around 0.4mA after switching off the ignition and I would imagine most of that is running the flashing red LED that flashes for 24 hours, then stops. 0.4mA would take 2 years to drain the C14 battery.
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The battery should not be going flat when parked up for a few weeks. It sounds like you have a parasitic drain. Someone may have fitted one of those tracker modules or something similar, and that is draining the battery. You can test yourself if you have a multimeter, or find a competent motorcycle mechanic and get them to look it over.
My C14 draws around 0.4mA after switching off the ignition and I would imagine most of that is running the flashing red LED that flashes for 24 hours, then stops. 0.4mA would take 2 years to drain the C14 battery.
Testing the parasitic load is not a bad idea for anyone with a known good battery that seems to go low for no reason (looses significant charge over a week).
My 2011 pulls 78mA after turning off, then several seconds later, it normalizes to 2.5mA. That is with the flashing light. Not sure I ever tested it with the light off. I don't have anything additional installed that would pull power with the ignition off.
A 12AH battery will supply 2.5mA for 4800 hours (200 days). That would mean the bike should easily go 2 to 3 months untouched and still be able to start on even a battery that has some significant wear.
If you want to test it with a multimeter, it is quite easy. Just disconnect the positive from the battery and connect the multimeter (in amp mode) between the battery post and the positive cable and wait. If I remember correctly, my car pulls much much more when off (I didn't write that number down, unfortunately).
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The battery should not be going flat when parked up for a few weeks. It sounds like you have a parasitic drain. Someone may have fitted one of those tracker modules or something similar, and that is draining the battery. You can test yourself if you have a multimeter, or find a competent motorcycle mechanic and get them to look it over.
My C14 draws around 0.4mA after switching off the ignition and I would imagine most of that is running the flashing red LED that flashes for 24 hours, then stops. 0.4mA would take 2 years to drain the C14 battery.
Yeah, something is going on. They said the batter has no issues, just needed charging. So, I put the battery in after they charged it. Cranked it and it read like 13.9, I believe. Very cold that day so I wasn't able to ride. Sat for 3-4 days. Just went out and it did crank but showed 11.8. This electrical stuff is way above my intelligence and we are new here and already had a bad situation with a mechanic for my car. I am pretty sure I have everything connected properly, but I probably wouldn't bet my life. Usually take lots of picks how something is set, and make sure it matches up when putting it back. The negative cable and the frame ground connect to the same bolt? That would be the only thing I questioned and I am pretty sure that's the case.
Should I just try to educate myself over the next month or two on your suggestions and deal with the drain in the meantime? Thanks for the help.
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After the above message. Went out to ride a little. Before cranking, it showed 11.8, cranked right up and immediately went to 14.1 as you maybe see in the image. Got to looking. Very sunny today. You can see the light coming in, but its dark in there as I lightened up the image.
https://freeimage.host/i/GGopTJ
However, I looked and I can run a solar charge under the screening and place it on the lower outdoor ledge of the window vents so it's outside and not in a puddle. Any thoughts if this would be useful till I can educate myself on tracking down any draw? Something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Powersports/dp/B01MYVUSRH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1J9VWWPAOG9Z7&keywords=solar%2Btrickle%2Bcharger%2Bfor%2Bmotorcycle&qid=1647798163&sprefix=solar%2Btri%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQkJSWUpZRzI4VkRUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODAzNDg0MUozNFBFVTFQQUcwMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA1NTc3M1BOVE9MSjkxVk0zNCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
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That will give up to 0.25A in very bright sunlight so may prevent your battery from going flat.
The only other problem is that you cannot connect it to the bikes existing cigar lighter socket as that is disconnected from the battery when the ignition is off.
You will need to wire it via a fuse to the battery somehow.
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That will give up to 0.25A in very bright sunlight so may prevent your battery from going flat.
The only other problem is that you cannot connect it to the bikes existing cigar lighter socket as that is disconnected from the battery when the ignition is off.
You will need to wire it via a fuse to the battery somehow.
And the 0.25A is only with full/direct sun on the panel. Most of the day that will not be the case, and certainly not at eve/night. Still, it might be enough.
And it will likely be stolen pretty quickly, since it isn't secure. And it isn't rated for outdoors (it is meant for inside a car).
Really, a draw test (measuring parasitic load) would only take about 10 minutes, with the majority of that time just removing and putting back the bolts/covers. I would certainly start there.
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That will give up to 0.25A in very bright sunlight so may prevent your battery from going flat.
The only other problem is that you cannot connect it to the bikes existing cigar lighter socket as that is disconnected from the battery when the ignition is off.
You will need to wire it via a fuse to the battery somehow.
Thanks- I have a lead on my battery from a tender before we moved here and most of these will connect. The claim to be waterproof and I've read they were very good for bikes. It's a pretty strict complex, so maybe it would be safe on the ledge as it would be low and only seen by folks parking in front of our place. This company has a range of wattages... would they be better, perhaps?
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/4FED19AE-2D9D-4292-830D-E5C39A56415A?ingress=2&visitId=29c1b621-e93c-40cc-b031-21703b488030&ref_=ast_bln
Thanks again
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I'd be inclined to measure the width of that drain in the curb and stick your solar panel through there.
As far as the possible parasitic drain goes, I'd really check to see if something is being bad.
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Yeah, dead again. Time to try to find a mechanic in the Wichita area-looks like there's a highly rated dude that does basic repairs and electrical work here out of his private shop, so glad to find that. My fear is it's alternator due to the day after I rode the purchased bike from Denver to Wichita. Next morning, low battery. Was thinking it was the battery but now wondering if it's an alternator and what that runs for a paid repair?
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I’d think if the alternator was bad, you wouldn’t make it out of Denver, let alone to Wichita.
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Probably not alternator. I am not sure I have EVER seen a post of a failed alternator or charging circuit on this forum. And we are talking many, many thousands of posts. Plus you showed 14+ V on the screen with the bike running, which is correct.
If that is a new battery, unless you have very bad luck, it is probably not a bad battery.
We have asked you to perform a simple parasitic drain test. It will take 10 minutes and all it requires is a standard multimeter, which every household should have. I strongly recommend you do that before throwing lots of money at the problem. If you don't have a poor connection, then that is the most probable cause, especially since it looks like you bought a used bike, which someone very well could have modified.
If there is a significant parasitic load, it means someone installed SOMETHING on that bike that is NOT on the ignition circuit and is draining power. In which case it must be found and removed.
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Will do. Will get a MM and check later this week and see how that reads. I need to charge the battery back up to full again to test with the MM?
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No, you don't need to have the battery at full capacity. It will help, but not needed. Anything over 10 milliamps draw means something is amiss.
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Spoke to the mechanic here- super happy to find this guy. Worked on a number of C14s and ZX14s. He urged me to get a new, higher quality battery and the solar panel I found. Got an Interstate coming rather than the Duralast that was on there. Will charge it up once it arrives and check for a draw with the multimeter this weekend, hopefully. Glad to find a highly regarded local guy that can do basic stuff when needed and don't have to deal with all that garbage getting a dealer to mount tires.
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Even so, you should still do a parasitic drain test to confirm there isn't something draining the battery...
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Even so, you should still do a parasitic drain test to confirm there isn't something draining the battery...
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He said he was going to check the draw Max.
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He said he was going to check the draw Max.
Oops, I get an "F" for reading comprehension :) Sorry