Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: lather on October 15, 2021, 04:03:26 PM
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I hopped on the C14 and rode to the closest Autozone to by a replacement H4 bulb. I wore my new Chinese bluetooth earbuds listening to tunes on my Android phone. Great tone and volume. When I arrived at the 'Zone I put the earbuds in their charging case and slipped that into my pocket next to my fob. After buying the H4s and some octane booster I put the goods in my top case, suited up and pressed the stove knob. Nada. Nada, Nada, Nada. Pulled out fob planning to the the close up fob method but tried the knob first and Voila!. One I was safely home I tested. With the fob in pocket with earbuds and case no KIPASS activation. Take the earbuds out of pocket and KIPASS works fine.
Just thought I'd pass this along. I have heard of electrical/wi-fi equipment disrupting KIPASS but not Bluetooth. Also my understanding of these earbuds is that they turn off when you put them in the charging case but that is apparently not the case.
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I believe it. If RF is strong enough, it doesn't seem to matter if it is the same frequency or even band. Perhaps related, I went to start the bike last week after placing my phone on the Xgrip and bike said "low transponder battery". I knew it wasn't low. Turned off, tried again, same thing. Took phone off Xgrip and moved it away and woke bike again, no message. Nor the next several times I started it since. Coincidence? Perhaps not.
Later, I also went into the phone settings and noticed that NFC was accidentally turned on (I never have it on) and turned that off.
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bike said "low transponder battery". I knew it wasn't low. Turned off, tried again, same thing. Took phone off Xgrip and moved it away and woke bike again, no message. Nor the next several times I started it since. Coincidence? Perhaps not.
Well, several more of these messages, and I tested with the phone far away and it didn't make any difference. So it might actually need a battery. Has only been 1 year, though. I have no spares, so I won't take it apart and measure until I buy some more.
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The KIPASS receiver antenna is in the KIPASS box under the saddle.
The ignition switch area only has the NFC receiver that is used when you touch the passive or active fob (with a flat battery) to it.
Concerning the fob battery, I highly recommend buying a quality Alkaline battery for it from a reputable supplier.
I've bought Duracell from eBay before, only to find out they were cheap crap knock-offs and not Duracell at all.
Yes, I did report the supplier to both eBay (nothing happened) and to our Trading Standards (account got shut down).
These days I get mine from a particular electronics supplier here in the UK.
I also use the CR2032 as it lasts considerably longer than the CR2025.
When you fit it, you need to push it in firmly before snapping the 2 halves back together.
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Concerning the fob battery, I highly recommend buying a quality Alkaline battery for it from a reputable supplier.
I've bought Duracell from eBay before, only to find out they were cheap crap knock-offs and not Duracell at all.
They are lithium, not alkaline, but I know what you mean. I, too, got ripped off with some fake batteries from Amazon at one point.
Pissed yesterday, because my entire 200 mile trip, most at night, with that damn red light glaring me in my face and I didn't have anything to put over the light. On the dark backroads, it is very annoying and makes it harder to search for debris, deer, etc (why the hell is it so bright???). I already covered the high-beam indicator with a tint sticker many years ago. I need to do the same with the warning light.
I also use the CR2032 as it lasts considerably longer than the CR2025. When you fit it, you need to push it in firmly before snapping the 2 halves back together.
That got me curious. So I took it apart. The battery was 3.0V, which is certainly not that low. But since I had it open, I went ahead and tried to force a new 2032 in there (which I do have plenty of) instead of a 2025. It is a tight fit, but it DOES WORK. That is what they SHOULD have picked in the first place. Generally, a 2032 will have 36% more energy storage than a 2025. So one might expect it to last about 1/3 longer. Anyway, the new battery was 3.3V.
The last time I changed it was only a year ago, and it measured 2.9V at that time, with the new one being 3.3V. Really, it should be fine even as low as 2.8V. They normally last about 2 years.
So I placed the phone on the seat and turned the key- no more low battery message. But could be temperature, could be something else. I will key an eye on it.
Good tip.
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They are lithium, not alkaline, but I know what you mean.
Yeah, Lithium. ;D
I fitted a Duracell CR2032 into my fob in 2013. The original CR2025 lasted 5 years.
That CR2032 is still in the fob, so 8 years and still counting.
I have a spare one in the bikes glovebox just waiting for the first warning message.
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Pissed yesterday, because my entire 200 mile trip, most at night, with that damn red light glaring me in my face and I didn't have anything to put over the light. On the dark backroads, it is very annoying and makes it harder to search for debris, deer, etc (why the hell is it so bright???). I already covered the high-beam indicator with a tint sticker many years ago. I need to do the same with the warning light.
What do you use as a sticker? I've used a piece of the blue painters tape, cut into a circle (because I'm anal and any out-of-round condition would really erk me). I find it sill allows the light to come through but really dulls the intensity/brightness. Just wondering what others have used.
And I guess I'm the only one that is so incredibly paranoid that I will lose/damage the active FOB that it hasn't left my house since she got home, LOL! I've been using the passive fob. I'm sure if I got used to the active, then going to the passive would seem like a PITA, but starting my Connie-Life with the passive, it doesn't bother me.
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Slightly off-topic but still RFI related:
If I'm on the highway with my '12 around semi trucks or other vehicles with high-powered radio transmitters installed, every now and then they'll induce an "FI" error. At higher speeds, bike almost always restarts itself and away we go. At slow speeds or stopped I have to pull the clutch in and hit the starter.
My '08 doesn't do this. Both have the exact same complement of electrical accessories, installed in exactly the same fashion.
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Slightly off-topic but still RFI related:
If I'm on the highway with my '12 around semi trucks or other vehicles with high-powered radio transmitters installed, every now and then they'll induce an "FI" error. At higher speeds, bike almost always restarts itself and away we go. At slow speeds or stopped I have to pull the clutch in and hit the starter.
My '08 doesn't do this. Both have the exact same complement of electrical accessories, installed in exactly the same fashion.
Have you checked to see if any error codes were stored?
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Yep, that is not a KiPass issue but rather in the engine ECU. The FI error pops up on second gen. C-14's occasionally but I have not heard of one stopping the bike from running. ?? Sounds as though there may be something wrong or loose in the electrical system on your bike.
As an aside and no one mentioned this but KiPass does not have the ability to stop the bike from running. It can only stop the bike from being started. Once running, KiPass is not 'in the loop' in any part of the bike's requirements to run. FWIW, it is the same way for all vehicles sold in the US entirely for safety reasons- having a vehicle stop without the operator's input would be disastrous sooner or later (think crossing railroad tracks) and an unacceptable risk for no real upside.
Brian
Slightly off-topic but still RFI related:
If I'm on the highway with my '12 around semi trucks or other vehicles with high-powered radio transmitters installed, every now and then they'll induce an "FI" error. At higher speeds, bike almost always restarts itself and away we go. At slow speeds or stopped I have to pull the clutch in and hit the starter.
My '08 doesn't do this. Both have the exact same complement of electrical accessories, installed in exactly the same fashion.
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Have you checked to see if any error codes were stored?
I have not, but next time it occurs I will.
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What do you use as a sticker?
LightDims. I just have to figure out where I put the sheet of them
https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Original-Strength-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B00CLVEQCO
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high-powered radio transmitters installed, every now and then they'll induce an "FI" error.
Mine also does this occasionally at similar locations, leading me to believe there are high-powered transmitters or RFI nearby at that location. Too many times to just be coincidence. Just a quick FI error, engine running just perfectly before/during/after.
Same thing with my bluetooth helmet- certain places I get break-up of the music.
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LightDims. I just have to figure out where I put the sheet of them
Found them! I just walked out and put one on that damn error light! Other one on highbeam been on there for about 5 years, still looks perfect.
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Black electrical tape. :)
LightDims. I just have to figure out where I put the sheet of them
https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Original-Strength-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B00CLVEQCO
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LightDims. I just have to figure out where I put the sheet of them
https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Original-Strength-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B00CLVEQCO
Thank you, kind sir!
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What a great idea! Never knew that they even existed.
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Black electrical tape. :)
The problem there is that it blocks ALL the light, which isn't necessarily what you want. Plus, over time, it turns to nasty "goo"
I understand why they wanted the indicators to be bright- so they can be seen in the day. But the dashboard lacks an automatic or even manual adjustment, so at night, they are WAY too bright.
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I put a small translucent suction cup over mine. Once in a while it falls off, so I put another one on.