Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => Accessories and modifications - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: maxtog on June 30, 2011, 10:00:27 PM
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The alternator reserve is is excess capacity the alternator can offer when everything on the bike is running at the same time. I have not seen any numbers for the C-14. Since it has "touring" in the name, I have to assume it has a larger alternator than a sport bike.
The reserve allows you to know many additional watts you can pull without dipping into the battery (for non-OEM things like additional lighting, heated seat/clothing, electronics, etc). Normally, you should not use all the alternator, anyway, or it could never recharge the battery from starting or self-discharge!
Anyway... anyone seen stats (especially on the 2010/2011)?
Also... access to the battery on the C-14 is crazy inconvenient. What are you guys doing to keep the battery charged during longer periods of non-use? Trickle charger? How are you connecting it? Did you install charging leads? If so, what/where?
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About 400 watts at 6k rpm. Don't know what the 'reserve' is. I've never had mine on a charger and never had an issue even with it sitting for over a month. However, the more vampire farkles installed, the more power drain off the battery.
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The C-14 alternator produces 590 watts, and it appears that about 350 watts or so are available for external (non bike) use. I had posted a more detailed and complete snippet about using the alternator until it could no longer maintain 13.0 volts but unfortunately that post went with all the others to digital heaven.
Brian
The alternator reserve is is excess capacity the alternator can offer when everything on the bike is running at the same time. I have not seen any numbers for the C-14. Since it has "touring" in the name, I have to assume it has a larger alternator than a sport bike.
The reserve allows you to know many additional watts you can pull without dipping into the battery (for non-OEM things like additional lighting, heated seat/clothing, electronics, etc). Normally, you should not use all the alternator, anyway, or it could never recharge the battery from starting or self-discharge!
Anyway... anyone seen stats (especially on the 2010/2011)?
Also... access to the battery on the C-14 is crazy inconvenient. What are you guys doing to keep the battery charged during longer periods of non-use? Trickle charger? How are you connecting it? Did you install charging leads? If so, what/where?
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. . . with all the others to digital heaven.
Brian
Pretty sure it went the other direction. ;D
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Looks like the alternator output question has been answered...
I installed a BMW style plug with a flip open cover on the right black panel (opposite the heated grip dial) that I can use with my battery tender or in reverse to power my heated jacket.
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Looks like the alternator output question has been answered...
I installed a BMW style plug with a flip open cover on the right black panel (opposite the heated grip dial) that I can use with my battery tender or in reverse to power my heated jacket.
I now just added the heated seat wiring with chili controller. I ran some tests and determined the controller can also power my heated vest. So I spliced that in too- it is just a connector that hangs off the left side from under the seat. The two heats add up to some 44 watts. Plus my running light conversion (other thread) is another full-time 44 watts. Later- adding a lightbar on back. Just trying to keep track of how much power is used/available.
As for the charger, my bike is so new, I just can't BEAR to cut into panels yet. So I am curious how others have handled the trickle-charge concept... not just connectors but where they tapped in, too.
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Here's where mine comes out Max, when not in use it just tucks right in out of sight.
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/IMG00375-20110701-1704.jpg)
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Here's where mine comes out Max, when not in use it just tucks right in out of sight.
Ah, but the 2010/2011 doesn't have empty space there... remember? :)
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Ah, but the 2010/2011 doesn't have empty space there... remember? :)
2nd gen snob... (http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/jaywilcox/backside.gif)
;) ;D :grouphug:
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You really only need one tap into the battery for all your external access needs. Use the heated clothing tap to attach the trickle charger. Just make sure the tap (the wire) you use is fused for the heaviest thing you will be using on it. For example: I use two 15 amp taps for my and my wife's heated clothes. My tire inflator wiring has been altered to add a male coaxial connector that fits the heated clothing taps (female) already on the bike. I just use either heated clothing tap to power the air compressor if or when I need it. If I used a trickle charger (I do not), then I would also wire that to use the same coaxial tap as the heated clothing. Both of the coaxial taps run from the battery and simply hang under the left hand side of the saddle because the input for Gerbing heated clothes is also on the left.
Of course if you use the proper size wire you could fuse the output harness (the 'tap') on the bike higher than 15 amps but I have not found anything that 15 amps will not supply that I want to power from the bike.
Brian
I now just added the heated seat wiring with chili controller. I ran some tests and determined the controller can also power my heated vest. So I spliced that in too- it is just a connector that hangs off the left side from under the seat. The two heats add up to some 44 watts. Plus my running light conversion (other thread) is another full-time 44 watts. Later- adding a lightbar on back. Just trying to keep track of how much power is used/available.
As for the charger, my bike is so new, I just can't BEAR to cut into panels yet. So I am curious how others have handled the trickle-charge concept... not just connectors but where they tapped in, too.
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You really only need one tap into the battery for all your external access needs. Use the heated clothing tap to attach the trickle charger.
Not possible in my case. Remember, it goes through the Chilli Controller. For other people, it is good advice, though.
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You could still use one main tap from the battery and split off a junction to power the seat heat controller, then let the main harness continue out from under the seat. My point is that there is really only a need for one wire to the battery for all farkles; Kawasaki wired the entire bike with only one tap to each post on the battery, right? ;) Multiple wires going to the battery invite trouble in the future IMO from corrosion, loose connectors, etc.
Brian
Not possible in my case. Remember, it goes through the Chilli Controller. For other people, it is good advice, though.
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You could still use one main tap from the battery and split off a junction to power the seat heat controller, then let the main harness continue out from under the seat. My point is that there is really only a need for one wire to the battery for all farkles; Kawasaki wired the entire bike with only one tap to each post on the battery, right? ;) Multiple wires going to the battery invite trouble in the future IMO from corrosion, loose connectors, etc.
Good point. Since I ran a full-time power to the relay at the back for the heated stuff, I could tap off of that and have some type of pigtail come out under the seat on the other side... Then I just have to find the right kind of connector and the right kind of charger.